Workhorse UFO wanders

[oldskibum71]

Hi !

New to RVing and this forum. I have a 2008 Itasca Latitude 39W on a Workhorse UFO 8.1 L Vortec gas pusher chassis. Pulling a 2008 CR-V
with a Blue Ox Aventa tow bar and a Brake Buddy. My question is about
the tendency of the UFO chassis to wander a bit. I have the axle loads
at about 35 % front, 65 % rear...can't seem to get any more over the
front axle. Anyway, on smooth and level concrete roads, the chassis
seems to hunt / wander a lilttle bit. On uneven roads, it is more pronounced.
I don't know if this is normal and to be expected, but it differs from my
past experience driving 26 foot bobtail trucks which were much steadier
on the road. I love the motorhome and the chassis is smooth and quiet.
The engine needs a little more grunt for the long uphills, but operates
well on the level. I'm also curious if anyone has put Banks headers or
intake systems on the UFO gas pusher chassis? Any help will be much
appreciated.

Thanks !

Oldskibum71

[UFO Pilot]

I haven't heard of that complaint from any of the UFO owners that I know or that post on these forums. My UFO certainly doesn't wander, in fact I can drive it with one finger most of the time if I wanted too.

[Whaler]

Get hold of Oemy on here,he can fix you up with the "GRUNT" you need,it's called a 'UP Download'for your engine computer.

[UFO Pilot]

Forgot to add that I had the UltraPower upgrade done in April of this year. I think I may get "better" mufflers installed also. I also had the shocks replaced with Koni's last year.

[-Gramps-]

Use the cruise when going uphill instead of the foot pedal.

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldskibum71 New to RV'ing and this forum. I have a 2008 Itasca Latitude 39W on a Workhorse UFO 8.1 L Vortec gas pusher chassis. My question is about the tendency of the UFO chassis to wander a bit. I have the axle loads at about 35 % front, 65 % rear...can't seem to get any more over the front axle. Anyway, on smooth and level concrete roads, the chassis seems to hunt / wander a little bit. On uneven roads, it is more pronounced.

oldskibum71, Please rule out the front end alignment and air pressures before you consider any hardware solutions for the UFO. Calling the guys over at Brazel's RV Performance may be time well spent if they can recommend a course of action. We have heard about slight porpoising from a UFO however wander is not typically something that is brought up.

Quote:

The engine needs a little more grunt for the long uphills, but operates well on the level. I'm also curious if anyone has put Banks headers or intake systems on the UFO gas pusher chassis? Any help will be much appreciated.

Banks headers are not going top provide the performance that you are expecting for the UFO. I would consider a software solution before going for a hardware solution. I'm sure you will be pleasantly surprised. The exhaust system on the UFO is so short that improving the exhaust flow just does not seem to be the best approach in my opinion.

[gbs2320]

No wandering with mine. Might you be confusing the normal steering corrections needed with a worm and sector type steering box like we have since they inherently have more play in them than our rack and pinions systems on most of our cars? Your tire pressures and tie rods ends and toe adjustment and other suspension pieces can affect it. Here is a link that might help. Suspension, Steering, Tire, Wheel Problems & Repair

[oldskibum71]

Thanks for the feedback.
This unit only has 4,000 miles on it. I'm in Oklahoma City right now heading to Ohio. The trip across OK today was a wrestling match. Constant side winds and passing semis. A real struggle. Anyway, I doubt the tie rod ends are worn out and the alignment was done not long ago. I'll make sure the tire pressures are correct, and try to move more weight forward aiming at about 60 % rear / 40 % front. I think the fact that there are two gear boxes in the steering system also allows for more play .. I just don't know what's expected or acceptable. As far as using the cruise control, I use it all the time and only use the pedal to make sure it's wide open uphill. As far as power, I would probably install the Ultra Power ECM mods first. I also think the intake system with all of it's bends is restrictive and would try to enlarge and smooth that out including some kind of scoop / naca duct on the side to force more cold air into the intake system. As far as caster and camber ... it seem pretty hard to adjust on this huge I-beam axle. Toe-in and Toe-out .... easy but the others not so easy. I am studying the Blue-Ox Tru Center as a possible solution and eventuallly the Koni FSD shocks in front to stop the porpoising on some bridges and overpasses where the joint and dips cause it to get into a significant harmonic. Anyway, all responses are appreciated and the discussion is great.

Thanks again,

Oldskibum71