Workhorse vs GM

[KJD]

Does anyone know if a Workhorse part will interchange with a General Motor part? I need a new a/c compressor and one from Workhorse is 455.60. But if I go to General Motor and ask for a a/c compressor for a 2005 GMC with the 8.1 L motor their cost is 224.78.... Just curious if they will interchange....Thanks ....KJD

[AussieRv]

This company may have a compatible part https://www.millsupply.com/pdf/stepvan/gm.pdf

[UFO Pilot]

From Oemy's site: http://www.oemys-performance.com/whparts2.htm#hvac

Part # Description Supplier
W8001369 A/C Compressor OEM
15067135 A/C Compressor Delphi
15-21177 A/C Compressor AC Delco
15-20747 A/C Compressor AC Delco/Denso
15-22124A A/C Compressor AC Delco
89019224 A/C Compressor GM
271569 A/C Compressor CarQuest
88950 A/C Compressor 4 Season's Auto Parts
88950 A/C Compressor Checker/Orielly's
DAC CSS0121 A/C Compressor Napa
NCC 3620151 A/C Compressor Napa
251281 A/C Compressor Napa
620447 A/C Compressor Autozone
620151 A/C Compressor Compressor Works

[PCarillon]

I am sure they will just find part number on old compressor and do a search

[k22j23]

I bought one from Napa using Oemy's cross reference and it works great.

[geofferyh]

Originally Posted by KJD

Does anyone know if a Workhorse part will interchange with a General Motor part? I need a new a/c compressor and one from Workhorse is 455.60. But if I go to General Motor and ask for a a/c compressor for a 2005 GMC with the 8.1 L motor their cost is 224.78.... Just curious if they will interchange....Thanks ....KJD

If it's a W22 chassis and the A/C compressor is intact and the clutch is working (disengaged), forget replacing it, but remove the 10A A/C fuse. It is really not a cost effective repair in that you can run your house A/C, which puts no load on the engine and cools better, while on the road.

Consider doing the following:

1. Remove the 10A A/C fuse ($0.00)
2. Get a Dayco 89012 Tensioner & Idler Pulley ($21.00 Amazon)
3. Get a Dayco 5060955 Serpentine Belt ($28.50 Amazon)
4. Leave the A/C compressor in place since it is a lot of work to remove.
5. Replace the smooth idler pulley with a Dayco 89012 ribbed pulley. Using the 89012 grooved pulley the belt is routed OVER the pulley instead of UNDER.

See Oemy's UltraPower Performance

[lonfu]

Ok, take the part number off your current compressor. yes, it is there some where. GM dealers should be able to figure out which compressor you have from your vin number. Write down the numbers that they give you that will fit it, then try napa and other suppliers...... But..... then there are those "Friday build" chassis.... and it may have been replaced already, so get the part # from the unit, take some pix so you have them when you go to the store to buy it. Compressor prices are based on how far they think they can get you to bend over!!! If you need to change the pulley try a local alternator shop..


since you are changing compressors have you thought about changing coolants? I've been using this new one in mine for the last 4 years with incredible success..... it works better than the original. Make sure you measure the oil you take from the old compressor and replace it with the same kind.


Industrial R134a Replacement Refrigerant 6 ounce Can Equivalent 16 oz 134a Details and Online Ordering at Enviro-Safe, Inc


This stuff will lower you ac air output temp by at least 10degrees. My gasser coach has 135k on it now.

[KJD]

[QUOTE=geofferyh;3439591]If it's a W22 chassis and the A/C compressor is intact and the clutch is working (disengaged), forget replacing it, but remove the 10A A/C fuse. It is really not a cost effective repair in that you can run your house A/C, which puts no load on the engine and cools better, while on the road.

Consider doing the following:

1. Remove the 10A A/C fuse ($0.00)
2. Get a Dayco 89012 Tensioner & Idler Pulley ($21.00 Amazon)
3. Get a Dayco 5060955 Serpentine Belt ($28.50 Amazon)
4. Leave the A/C compressor in place since it is a lot of work to remove.
5. Replace the smooth idler pulley with a Dayco 89012 ribbed pulley. Using the 89012 grooved pulley the belt is routed OVER the pulley instead of UNDER.

See there lies my problem.. The compressor with the a/c off makes all kinds of squealing and grinding noise when not engaged. With the a/c on it is as quite as a church mouse. Also with it on the temp out of the vents are blowing 38 deg. air so it is cooling properly in my opinion. It is just really loud with is off... Not sure if I could just replace the clutch on the a/c haven't found anyone who has done just that on a motorhome....Thanks..KJD

[lonfu]

[QUOTE=KJD;3440966]

Originally Posted by geofferyh

If it's a W22 chassis and the A/C compressor is intact and the clutch is working (disengaged), forget replacing it, but remove the 10A A/C fuse. It is really not a cost effective repair in that you can run your house A/C, which puts no load on the engine and cools better, while on the road.

Consider doing the following:

1. Remove the 10A A/C fuse ($0.00)
2. Get a Dayco 89012 Tensioner & Idler Pulley ($21.00 Amazon)
3. Get a Dayco 5060955 Serpentine Belt ($28.50 Amazon)
4. Leave the A/C compressor in place since it is a lot of work to remove.
5. Replace the smooth idler pulley with a Dayco 89012 ribbed pulley. Using the 89012 grooved pulley the belt is routed OVER the pulley instead of UNDER.

See there lies my problem.. The compressor with the a/c off makes all kinds of squealing and grinding noise when not engaged. With the a/c on it is as quite as a church mouse. Also with it on the temp out of the vents are blowing 38 deg. air so it is cooling properly in my opinion. It is just really loud with is off... Not sure if I could just replace the clutch on the a/c haven't found anyone who has done just that on a motorhome....Thanks..KJD

Yes, you can replace just the clutch, but it will take some special tools, if you don't mind renting or buying them. Assuming you have used a stethoscope to listen to it, I'd agree with you, sounds like the fan clutch spring has become weak and needs to be replaced. That said, one time I did replace the fan clutch and it turned out to be the main bearing, when turned on, the clutch pulled on the bearing and stopped the sound. Have you looked at it to see if any of the springs arms are broken? I've never had any luck pulling the clutch retaining nut with the compressor on the vehicle but who knows you might be able to do it. Workhorse generally uses all chevy components on their engines and drive lines. When it comes to the frame member stuff that is when it gets a bit "hit and miss" on the parts thing.

AZ has some tools and clutch replacements, trick is to identify your compressor. They like to use the vehicle application side rather than the part ID to match up parts. Depending on how much room you have, you may be able to do this on the vehicle with out discharging the system.

look at this video to give you an idea what is needed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVQxRXUUUb4

yes, I know the vid is for a ford, but they are all pretty much same.

Now, getting to it in a moho is a real PIA! good luck!