Workhorse Wiring Question

[bruceh]

On my 2001 W-20 Winnebago Adventurer engine fuse block are two studs marked Aux A and Aux B with 30 amp fuses right above them with the same markings.

Does anybody know what these are for? Can they really handle 30 amps? This would make life easier for me if I could use these.

Thanks,,

[RottenRalph]

Mostly used for things like brake controllers and constant 12V power for pulling a trailer that has the need. I've used them plenty on GM trucks but I don't think I've ever put them to the test up to 30 Amps. I would think if it says 30 Amps you should be able to go up to 30.

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bruceh Does anybody know what these are for? Can they really handle 30 amps? This would make life easier for me if I could use these.

bruceh, These circuits are for the body builder. Before considering using these circuits consider using an amp meter and measure the connected load with all the body lights, wipers, and all other accessories and systems running. There may not be enough residual amperage remaining to safely power additional circuits. Personally I would not exceed a circuit's ampacity greater that 80% of the rating.

[oemtech]

Workhorse uses these for the Ignition Switch fix and swaps out the 30 amp fuse for a 40 amp fuse.

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by oemtech Workhorse uses these for the Ignition Switch fix and swaps out the 30 amp fuse for a 40 amp fuse.

Dale, Are you speaking to the fix for the P Series? I have not had a Ignition Switch fix on my W Series have you?

[bruceh]

I am confused. The two studs have nothing attached to them. Are you saying that these two circuits have other uses?

I can't find any reference to them in the Winnebago wiring diagrams for my coach and can't find a Workhorse wiring diagram.

I completely agree on the 80% and tend to be quite conservative on these things.

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bruceh I am confused. The two studs have nothing attached to them. Are you saying that these two circuits have other uses?

Don't be confused. Simply rule out if there is a connected load by metering the circuit.

In my resources it states that AUX1 and AUX2 are provided for the body builder. I expect that those have been used however that may not always be the case.

[oemtech]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DriVer Dale, Are you speaking to the fix for the P Series? I have not had a Ignition Switch fix on my W Series have you?

Yes.... There should be no difference in usage whether it be the P or W series.

You can download the WH pdf document on the ignition fix from my web site Downloads - Ignition Relay Install and look on page 4 for more info.

[John Hilley]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DriVer Don't be confused. Simply rule out if there is a connected load by metering the circuit. In my resources it states that AUX1 and AUX2 are provided for the body builder. I expect that those have been used however that may not always be the case.

You can't meter the circuit if you can't disconnect the load. He states there is nothing connected to the studs.

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Hilley You can't meter the circuit if you can't disconnect the load. He states there is nothing connected to the studs.

If the circuit is fused, which I expect it is, you can meter the load. The studs are on the load side of the fuse. An amp meter inserted in-line on the line side, observing polarity, will indicate the draw in the circuit that is imparted on the load side or stud. You need to extract the fuse from the socket and fashion an adapter. An in-line fuse holder is preferable. Do not meter the circuit without the fuse in place.

There aren't any circuits on a Workhorse chassis that can not be disconnected and or metered. (Includes Fords too! )

EXTRA: I just went out to check my AUX1 & AUX2. I am fused with 30A Fuses however on the inside of the fuse cover it indicates that there are supposed to be 20A fuses in the socket. Touching the back of the fuse panel there doesn't appear to be any physically connected loads. That said, I can not tell if there is a trace on the fuse panel itself that may feed a secondary circuit that the coach builder needs. Most likely there's nothing attached however ruling out any other connected loads will set the confidence high that the studs could be used for additional loads.

If I were going to use those studs, I would use an in-line fuse holder with a lower rating. For example, if you're going to power a CB radio, a 10A fuse would suffice and the primary 30A in the panel, I don't expect would blow in the event of a short in the auxiliary connected load.
.

[Clay L]

Some builders don't use those studs. My Sightseer is one that had nothing connected to either one.
I used one of them to supply my 6 way 12 volt power outlet center.

[DriVer]

There is another thing you can do just to satisfy curiosity. Unsocket the fuses and go see if anything changed inside the RV with the other loads.

[bruceh]

Quote:

Originally Posted by oemtech Yes.... There should be no difference in usage whether it be the P or W series. You can download the WH pdf document on the ignition fix from my web site Downloads - Ignition Relay Install and look on page 4 for more info.

I looked up the referenced document and it refers to the 'Workhorse 32 series chassis'. I have not seen that term before. Does that correspond to W-20 and, if so, do I need it?

[bruceh]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DriVer There is another thing you can do just to satisfy curiosity. Unsocket the fuses and go see if anything changed inside the RV with the other loads.

I like this idea, will do.

Thanks for all the replies. This is very useful information.

What I am attempting to do here is to re-route the power for my headlights, I have other threads on this. Relays, of course.

If I run 4 high beams @ 55 watts, that corresponds to almost 19 amps. If I inline fuse @ 25 amps (I ALWAYS fuse as close to the pickup point as possible), I should be in good shape on a 30 amp circuit assuming no other loads. There is a calculation for low beams and fogs(again 4 loads @ 55 watts) resulting in a similar number. That is what I have in mind for Aux A and Aux B.

If this doesn't work out, there is a massively fat wire (about a #4) running to the hydraulic motor for the slides/levelers.