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Old 04-07-2014, 01:39 PM   #43
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Kenley, one more thing I forgot to mention, might have been by someone else, when I put the new tires on the coach (oh my gosh what a difference in ride and noise the XRVs make), I didn't realize the old tires, even though they looked great, were not tracking straight down the road exactly. What I mean is that there was some squirming on the highway of the chassis, separate from the swaying of the coach, that was eliminated once I put the new tires on.

Then as I said, the CHF eliminated a whole lot of that swaying and rocking right and left, and made the coach feel more like one unit instead of two.

Lastly, those new shocks I just installed REALLY keep the sidewinds impact down by dampening or damping the sway, I didn't think they would make that much difference after the new tires and the CHF, but they sure do.!

Best wishes and keep us posted!!

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Old 04-11-2014, 04:26 PM   #44
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I made these comments on another thread concerning handling improvements so I'll mention it here.

There are many variables and things we can add to our coaches for handling and ride improvement: tires, tire pressure, CHF, shock absorbers, front/rear track bars, steering dampener, steer-safe, Tru-Track centering (or something like that), air bags, and probably a few others.

Our coaches are as varied as the fixes designed to improve the ride/handling. I don't need to list the differences but just note that there are many differences.

When we add something like Koni Shocks to a coach one guy might rave how they improved his ride and another might say that they didn't help much. How a coach responds to one change like shocks is dependent on the driver and how each coach varies in design, weight and set up. It's like comparing apples and oranges. Even if the shock applications vary a 27' coach is going to respond differently than a 37' coach.

Here's my point. Since there are so many variables in coach design it makes sense to me that just because one item added didn't make a great big difference (The WOW moment) does not matter. Each will contribute some thing in their own way to improve ride and handling. Another way of looking at it is one change may get a 30% improvement and the same change to a different coach will give just a 5% improvement. Eventually they will all add up.

I just finished a steering dampener. Does it work??? Well it has to dampen the tire movement when a tire hits a dip/bump/rut etc. or when a truck passes me. How much does it help??? Don't know but based on the laws of physics and the design of the shock it has to dampen the un-wanted movement and its effects on the coach, steering wheel and the ride. The shock absorber is attached to the frame and the drag link on the steering system. If the wheel hits a rut and is moved in either direction the shock has to dampen that movement SOME. Maybe I could have spent $200 and gotten a better shock absorber but for now I'll use what I got. It is a Ranchero steering dampener and only cost me $70.

Just some food for thought!!!

TeJay
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Old 04-11-2014, 04:34 PM   #45
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Thanks for sharing, great info!
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Old 04-12-2014, 10:13 AM   #46
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I totally agree with Tejay's comments but will add one more thing. I'm 1000 mi into my first outing with our new motor home.
I added air bags, steering dampner, rear trac bar, -CHF. The motor home can be driven with one finger if there is a 20 mph cross wind on the passenger side
I have a appointment Tuesday for an alignment after talking with their alignment specialist. He says the right side needs some positive caster as the factory is set at zero degrees. (not allowing for the crown on most hwys). I'll have 900 miles home to test the new alignment!
<Colton Truck Terminal Garage in So Calif.>
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Old 04-12-2014, 06:49 PM   #47
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I'll be interested in your return trip after the alignment. Make sure, if possible that you try and watch the alignment guy. If he's good and has nothing to hide he should let you watch or at least allow you information as he sets things up. He should have some before readings. You have to take before reading so you know what to do with the settings.

Ask him to explain the settings if he will. Just tell him that you are interested in what he's doing. There are basically three settings: Toe, caster and camber. I can explain them but you can get a better picture from the internet.

Your total toe setting should be 1/16" and no more.

The caster is set by adding shims to change the tilt of the wheel more or less positive. If you hold a can of beer up to your face and tilt the can towards your mouth you are changing caster more positive. If you tilt it away from your mouth it is more negative. Your caster is now set positive, probably about 4.5 degrees + and he said that the right tire should be more positive to allow for road crown.

Camber is the tilt of the wheel in and out as measured from the top.

Let us know how it turns out.

TeJay
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Old 04-13-2014, 06:44 AM   #48
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We had an alignment company that did our motorhomes. They had a reputation for top notch work. They wanted the motorhome loaded as you normally used it. They also wanted you and your wife to sit in the seats while the alignment was being done. It was kind of boring, but they did a perfect job.
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Old 04-13-2014, 08:21 AM   #49
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ga traveler,
I think it was the Mercedes that requires the alignment guy to put weights in the vehicle to simulate the normally loaded vehicle. Most other manufacturers didn't. I can see the reason for having the MH loaded for travel because of the potential for significant overloading from side to side and front to rear.

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Old 04-19-2014, 05:38 PM   #50
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Tejay, the $275 alignment didn't go well. The shop in Calif. was way too secretive. It still drifts to the right and has a tad of wander now. I asked for 2 deg. caster and he gave me .5 deg. on the pass. side only. I ordered an assortment of wedge shims to do the job myself.
They said it may be the Goodyear tires, I swapped R/L front wheels with the slightest improvement. I have 3000mi on the MH, air bags with 15psi, tire pressure 88psi.
Goes in the Ford dealer Monday (AC blows hot, leaks oil @ compressor) I'm trying to talk Ford into checking the alignment but the service adviser said that's Fleetwoods job.
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Old 04-20-2014, 07:06 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IdahoSRT10 View Post
Tejay, the $275 alignment didn't go well. The shop in Calif. was way too secretive. It still drifts to the right and has a tad of wander now. I asked for 2 deg. caster and he gave me .5 deg. on the pass. side only. I ordered an assortment of wedge shims to do the job myself.
They said it may be the Goodyear tires, I swapped R/L front wheels with the slightest improvement. I have 3000mi on the MH, air bags with 15psi, tire pressure 88psi.
Goes in the Ford dealer Monday (AC blows hot, leaks oil @ compressor) I'm trying to talk Ford into checking the alignment but the service adviser said that's Fleetwoods job.
You may try to go to 25 psi on the front airbags. I installed several airbags on the F53 chassis and almost all of my customers settled on 25 psi as the best ride.
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Old 04-20-2014, 08:36 AM   #52
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Sorry that it did not go as well as expected. This is probably hind sight but if you decide to use another alignment shop try this. Ask the service writer if you can speak to the alignment guy. When you do ask him to give you a before report when he gets everything set and on the machine. He needs to know where the settings are so they know what to do. Then ask him to show you what he is going to set them to. If there is a range for the caster ask him to st it towards the high side. Your total toe in should be no more than 1/16". That's a standard setting for TT
Your idea of putting in your own shims sounds like a plan. Since they are set it's almost impossible to screw it up. If you added 3 degrees to each side and it makes the steering noticeable harder but improves straight ahead travel then drop it back to a 1-2 degree increase.
You need to get the lead (a slight drift less than what one would call a pull) fixed. When you take it to FL put some shims in first and see what the before readings are. That way you'll know what and how your fix turned out.
He probably set the right side at .5 degree because of road crown.

FL should respond to you if you tell them it PULLS to the right. Don't tell them it leads or drifts. A pull when corrected by you with the steering wheel will cause tire wear. You are forcing the tire to go where it does not want to go. That's dangerous for you and others. I drove back from Forect City Iowa lasy August with the new MH and it pulled right. I think I went onto the rumble strip 30-40 times in the 600 mile trip. It was awful.

Let us know how it works for you.

TeJay
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