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Old 09-18-2012, 09:23 AM   #1
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1985 E350 Brakes HELP

Is there someone out there who might remember how the brakes worked in 85. My son has a 1985 E 350 Class c The rotors wew cracked both sides when he got it. We replaced with like new from the bone yard had them trued up and installed. It has 2 relatively new genuine ford product calipers . After the first test flight the brakes seemed warm/hot to me. So is there anything in the brake system that could cause pressure to remain on the caliper slightly to cause enough drag that would heat things up and eventually crack these rotors? I realize disc brakes slighly drag anyhow but prior to driving when both wheels were jacked up we ran the motor and pumped the brakes numerous times and everything seemed fine??? So if you have some factual info that might help a youg man with limited income figure this out please respond to his old dad so he can help him out... Thanks Jim
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Old 09-18-2012, 10:03 AM   #2
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Just because the looked "like new" from the junkyard doesn't mean they haven't been trued several times and are too thin. I would have them checked with a micrometer to see if they are actually thick enough. The specifications are stamped on them.

Brake rotors will be very hot after driving, even if they are working correctly. That is why they have cooling fins built into them. Sometimes they will even glow in the dark when going down a steep hill and applying them several times.

The calipers could very well be sticking, the hoses not allowing fluid to return to the master cylinder, or a master cylinder problem. I would have the rotors checked first though.

Another possible problem. If the rears aren't working properly, the fronts have to do all of the work stopping the truck. You might want to double check that they are doing what they are supposed to do also.
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Old 09-18-2012, 10:09 AM   #3
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Could be:
1 Bad Master Cylinder.
2 Wheel bearings out of adjustment.
3 No lubricant on caliper slides.
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Old 09-18-2012, 10:20 AM   #4
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I had a 1985 Ford class C on an E350 chassis and I scared myself one day when I had to stop faster than I normally would. There was no way that the braking system would stop you in a panic stop. I got in touch with Hydrotech Braking systems out of TN and they had a hydroboost unit for an E350. The hydroboost unit replaces the vacuum booster with a hydraulic unit that works off the power steering pump. They are an amazing system and will stop you on a dime with very little foot pressure on the pedal.
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Old 09-18-2012, 05:26 PM   #5
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Caliper's and or flex lines as well.
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Old 09-18-2012, 05:32 PM   #6
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The vacuum booster and or residual pressure valves.
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:17 AM   #7
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Thanks for the info. I measured the rotors removed from the yard with a mic. and they were on the high side of the wear range well within limits. The rotors were turned but all they had to do was remove the rust and it was a done deal. The calipers that are on there were from previous owner(still had the foil Genuine Ford Decal on them. The rubber lines seem good like they were replaced not even any weather checking. I polished the sliding surfaces of the calipers before reinstall. I personally packed the new inner/outer wheel brgs and toqued to spec before cotter pin install. We ran the engine for 30 minutes with the wheels off the ground while exercising the brakes. The calipers moved closed and open every time and the rotor turned free after each pedal movement. Then we drove it and thats when we returned home that I thought they seemed awful hot. I faled to jack it up immediately to see how the wheels turned, I wasn,t feeling well. However this rig has only 68000 miles on it and the rotors that we found cracked were obvious not the original . So it is safe that the used ones we installed are set #3. wow The info on the booster and I think somone said vaving. Where are the valvesthat could hold pressure Thanks but I have done all that easy stuff. Thanks again Jim
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Old 09-19-2012, 03:08 PM   #8
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Don't dismiss the rubber lines as good just because they look OK on the outside. Since it is obvious that the brakes have been worked on previously, you don't know how careful the "mechanic" was. If they pinched the lines (let the calipers hang by the hoses) they can be internally damaged and can block fluid flow. I'm not saying to replace them now but keep it in mind if you don't find the solution elsewhere.
Best of luck!
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:41 AM   #9
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Okay We will remove and replace the front rubber hoses. But I,m going to ask the same thing is there anything other than lines and maybe a caliper in the system that could hold preassure. Valves or aNY OTHER GIZMOS AND THERE LOCATIONS. i,M SORRY IT MAy SOUND LIKE i,M DISMISSING YOUR ASSISTANCE BUT WE HAVEN,T HIT THE SOURCE OF THE TROUBLE YET. tHANKS jIM
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:43 AM   #10
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Yes the Master Cylinder can but I am not saying that is your problem but it might be.
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:55 AM   #11
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Proportional valve..
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Old 09-20-2012, 10:02 AM   #12
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The Proportional valve is for the rear wheels only.
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Old 09-20-2012, 11:16 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subford View Post
The Proportional valve is for the rear wheels only.
I see.. Then mis-adjusted rear brakes could do it too.. other than that, collapsed inner linings in the front lines, or master cylinder is all I got as a potential problem..
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Old 09-20-2012, 11:26 AM   #14
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Good bet it is the hoses. Take top off of mc open bleeders one at a time fluid should gravity bleed if hoses are good.After you take them off you should be able to blow trough them easy if they are good.
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