While driving along on the freeway, the engine just died on me. I had to be towed.
Here's what I have checked, or observed, so far.
1) The MIL does not come on when I turn the key to 'on'.
2) The engine will crank, but not catch. When I turn the key back to 'off' after cranking, the MIL illuminates very briefly.
3) Removed and checked one spark plug. Good spark.
4) Sprayed starter fluid into throttle body. Engine started and ran. Able to keep it running for a couple of seconds by continuing to spray in fluid.
5) Plugged in the OBD-I reader. The 'connected' icon does not come on when key is set to 'ON'.
So my gut is telling me the ECM is fried. Anything else I should check? Also, is there a fuse for the ECM? The only fuse panel I can find is the one below the dash, drivers side.
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You might check the EEC Power relay. The PCM may not be getting any power.
No fuse but you do have a fuse link that sends power to the EEC Power relay and it may have opened.
The fuse link is located at the starter relay.
If power is OK going to the PCM the PCM may be bad.
If it is the PCM:
The F2PF-12A650-ANA code T2L0 PCM replaced all PCM computers in F53 from 1988-1993 per Ford recall #94b37.
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__________________
Bill
1995 COACHMEN Santara 350FL on a 1994 Ford F53 subford@gmail.com
I see the fusible links. I'll have to get a sharp probe for my test light to see if they are open.
In the drawing there is a plastic cover labeled "Relays". Are the two relays under that cover the fuel pump and PCM relays shown in the photo? The photo looks like it's the drivers side under the hood, and I have no relays over there.
OK, I checked the fusible links, they are all good. In your post, the drawing showing the relay box matches the physical layout in my rig...
The two relays in the plastic cover are both good. I tested them in situ and on the bench. Both energize the 'downstream' lines when the key is turned "ON".
However, I cant find any other relays. I removed the doghouse and searched under the body on the drivers side, and I looked all over on the drivers side firewall.
Any other ideas how to find them? I've added some underhood pics.
1)4) ....Sprayed starter fluid into throttle body. Engine started and ran. Able to keep it running for a couple of seconds by continuing to spray in fluid.
Richard
So you have spark.
I didn't read everything but are you sure it's not just the fuel pump (or power circuits) or the inertia switch.
great site to help with troubleshooting;
easyautodiagnostics.com
__________________ 1996 Tioga Class C
2007 Monaco Diplomat 40 PDQ
TOAD 2012 Cadillac SRX 4
Yes it is. I was thinking from the drawing and photo that there were another pair of relays on the driver's side.
HOWEVER .... Drumroll please!
Problem is fixed and it's running fine.
The issue? A simple broken ground wire.
On the negative post of the battery the main ground strap runs to the block. A smaller ground wire runs from the negative post to a ground point on the firewall. Both of those were good.
BUT... A small ground wire runs from where the strap is bolted to the block into a wire loom that heads towards the PCM. That wire was broken off at the block. Fixed it and Voila! Everything works.
Thanks for everyone's help and advice. I'm glad it was an easy fix.... Once I'd figured out what it was.
As I was reading this thread and saw this one particular photo you posted, and that was the first thing that jumped into my mind. That photo has a bunch of rusted terminals and I thought "he has a bad ground somewhere". Especially the age of your coach. As a PM item, I'd go over every electrical terminal, clean and spray to eliminate future problems.
My high school auto repair teacher taught us that step 1 for electrical troubleshooting was "Check every ground. It's almost always a ground", and that step 2 was "If all grounds are known good, check them all again. You probably missed one."
I should have remembered that advice��
Mr. Dremel and his wire brush tool will be getting some exercise on those firewall terminals.
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