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Old 08-04-2012, 12:38 PM   #1
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1990 Rexhall Airex will not stop running

I will try to make this short. Friend wanted to use my RV generator (Onan) to power a TV in his house because his power was off. The RV had set awhile so the generator was not starting. The RV was running while attempting to get the generator started. My friend then connected jumper cables from his pickup directly to the generator to try and get the generator to turn over quicker. I finally said enough is enough. I told my girl friend to turn off the RV. It would not turn off with the key off and out of the ignition. So we disconnected the battery and it still ran. So we disconnected the ignition wiring harness at the steering column and it still kept running. The only way I can turn off the motor is to hit the fuel inertia switch.

Once the coach quits running from having the fuel cutoff I then have to disconnect the battery because the normal idiot lights on the dash board stay lit even with the key off. This causes multiple problems seperate from the pain of having to go through multiple steps to start and the stop the engine. In addition the inertia switch not only cuts off the fuel but the LP as well. That prevents the stove and refridge from working as well.

I have searchd everywhere for a 1990 F53 Chassis Wire diagram and when doing so all I end up with is a bunch of new tool bars and other crap on my computer. Free would be great but I have no problem paying for a quality service diagram to diagnose this problem. Any and all help would be appreciated.
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Old 08-04-2012, 02:26 PM   #2
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Not sure if a 1990 F53 wiring diagram even exist.
But the only way this would happen if the Red wire (wire #16 in most diagrams) with a light green stripe remained hot. Its only source of power is the Ignition Switch.

This wire powers the EEC Power Relay, Ignition Coil, ICM and the PIP sensor.

I can send you a 1990 F-series 460 Ignition diagram and the wiring should very close to what you have if not the same.
Just email your email address @ the email below in this post.
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Old 08-05-2012, 03:11 PM   #3
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If that wire is not suppose to remain hot, what component is most likely keeping it hot?
Thanks
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Old 08-05-2012, 03:19 PM   #4
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A short in the Ignition Switch plug or the wires going to plug.
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:44 AM   #5
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Finally got around to taking a look at this problem. I have not been able to find a Red wire with a Green line coming out of the ignition switch. Do you have a diagram of the wire harness connector on the steering column? Also a friend is leaning toward the key switch itself. One thing I did not point out before. When the motor is running the eccessories such as the wind shield wipers work. When I turn it off the motor keeps running but now the wipers dont work. This tells me the on/off in the key switch is working? Thanks
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Old 08-23-2012, 10:51 AM   #6
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As I said I do not think a wiring diagram for a 1990 F53 even exist.

But here is the pin-outs of the Ignition Switch and the column plug for a 1990 F-series truck and they may be the same.

Ignition Switch:


Column plug:


Wire colors:


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Old 08-23-2012, 01:05 PM   #7
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Being it is a MY1990 it should have a remote mounted starter solenoid. Many of these were diode suppressed in the start/run bypass terminal. This diode may have failed or the solenoid was replaced with a non suppressed one.
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Old 08-23-2012, 01:38 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrv8outboard View Post
Being it is a MY1990 it should have a remote mounted starter solenoid. Many of these were diode suppressed in the start/run bypass terminal. This diode may have failed or the solenoid was replaced with a non suppressed one.
I do not see anyway how that would keep the red wire with a light green stripe hot.



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Old 08-23-2012, 01:47 PM   #9
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My guess is that he has a short in the wiring harness keeping the red wire with a light green stripe hot. More than likely melted to a yellow wire.
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Old 08-25-2012, 08:16 AM   #10
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Thanks for the additional diagrams. I still have not been able to determine why wire #16 remains hot. The switch works fine.....unless the new one I installed was bad as well. I also performed this step,

Part 1 -Ford EEC Power Relay Test.

to determine if the eec power relay was good and it checked out fine.

I have a couple trouble shooting questions.

First, the #16 wire has power at the switch even if the switch is off. Wire #16 should only be powered when I move the switch to on/start/eccessory correct? The black clip that holds the wires that clips into the switch has a lot of grease and gunk on it. How do I check to determine if it is shorted in this clip? Possibly getting power off wire #37 (Battery wire)?

Second, when I hook up the battery I hear clicking of components that are powering up. The dash (check engine etc...) remain on even with the key in the off position. Also, when the motor is running the windshield wipers will work. When I turn the switch off, the wipers quit working but the coach remains running. This tells me the on/off of the ignition switch is working?????

Also, how is the house battery and generator tied into this circuit? I keep going back to my friend trying to jump the generator with cables to his pickup while my motor home was running. The alternator charges both batteries and should have a isolator???? to the generator when it is operating in place of the alternator. Is there possibly something that is keeping the circuit closed?


If there is a short I am leaning towards it being in the clip that connects to the switch but can't figure out how to check it. This is really frustrating and I truely appreciate all your help.
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Old 08-25-2012, 10:12 AM   #11
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I posted before I read your previous responses. I read this morning on the Ford forum that the solenoid can get stuck in the closed position. I have not checked this.

Also, I read that the voltage regulator can get stuck in the closed position allowing the current to back feed through the system.

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Old 08-25-2012, 10:41 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zbadboy69 View Post
I posted before I read your previous responses. I read this morning on the Ford forum that the solenoid can get stuck in the closed position. I have not checked this.
I think you are talking about the starter solenoid. If the tarter solenoid were stuck in the closed position the starter would be running all the time the battery is hooked up.

Quote:
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Also, I read that the voltage regulator can get stuck in the closed position allowing the current to back feed through the system.
I think you are going back too many years to when the voltage regulator had contacts in them. Your voltage regulator should have transistors in it.
Not sure what year they went to a solid state regulator but it was before 1982.
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Old 08-25-2012, 10:59 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zbadboy69 View Post
to determine if the eec power relay was good and it checked out fine.
The EEC Power Relays coil is fed from wire #16 so that would not be the problem. Although the wires under its socket could shorted, #16 & #37.
Quote:
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First, the #16 wire has power at the switch even if the switch is off. Wire #16 should only be powered when I move the switch to on/start/eccessory correct?
No, only the ON & Start position.
Quote:
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The black clip that holds the wires that clips into the switch has a lot of grease and gunk on it. How do I check to determine if it is shorted in this clip? Possibly getting power off wire #37 (Battery wire)?
The black clip better know as a connector or plug can be unplugged from the Ignition Switch and the wires removed. It is a common problem for this connector to melt and cause problems. You would then need to buy a new plug pigtail and splice it into the wires that run to it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zbadboy69 View Post
Second, when I hook up the battery I hear clicking of components that are powering up. The dash (check engine etc...) remain on even with the key in the off position. Also, when the motor is running the windshield wipers will work. When I turn the switch off, the wipers quit working but the coach remains running. This tells me the on/off of the ignition switch is working?????
Most likely but not 100%, but I do not think the switch itself could cause your problem but its plug can.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zbadboy69 View Post
Also, how is the house battery and generator tied into this circuit? I keep going back to my friend trying to jump the generator with cables to his pickup while my motor home was running. The alternator charges both batteries and should have a isolator???? to the generator when it is operating in place of the alternator. Is there possibly something that is keeping the circuit closed?
Most likely the Positive post of the batteries are tied together with a isolator solenoid that looks like a old time starter solenoid but it is not the same part. No circuit #16 dose not run close to the generator circuits.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zbadboy69 View Post
If there is a short I am leaning towards it being in the clip that connects to the switch but can't figure out how to check it. This is really frustrating and I truely appreciate all your help.
See above.
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Old 08-25-2012, 12:07 PM   #14
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Subford, In the last diagram there is no start run bypass on the solenoid.

If it has the slave solenoid (on what would have been the right side inner fender well on an F or E series) used in conjunction with the starter solenoid it may be a four wire not a three wire. They are labeled on the smaller studs as "S" (start) "I" (ignition). The "I" terminal feeds critical ignition and fuel circuits during crank. This is the terminal that is diode suppressed as not to back feed power to these circuits in key off mode. So that being the correct schematic it would not have that slave solenoid.
But it does show a diode suppressed solenoid for a reason.
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