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Old 11-25-2011, 10:54 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Woody Harris View Post
So all suggestions have been help full, however I still have the problem. I am going to bleed pressure from fuel (if I can fill the valve to do so) and replace the fuel filter and use some starting fulid. Anything to get my wife off my back (lol). hope it works
Woody - You haven't mentioned if you tried Subford's suggestion of turning the key on and off a few times (to pressurize the fuel line) before you tried cranking the engine. This worked for me.

Also did you try using your battery boost button to spin the starter faster while cranking?
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Old 11-26-2011, 10:37 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morefun View Post
Woody - You haven't mentioned if you tried Subford's suggestion of turning the key on and off a few times (to pressurize the fuel line) before you tried cranking the engine. This worked for me.

Also did you try using your battery boost button to spin the starter faster while cranking?
IF this really helps then you might have a cranking battrie that is getting older.
As a battry get older the voltage drops more for the same amount of load like cranking a starter.
some voltmeters work during cranking.
A fuel pump will make a bit more pressure with it getting 11 volts than it will if it see 9.5 volts.
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Old 11-27-2011, 06:24 AM   #17
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Thanks for all suggestions and I have done most of them,but the season near Christmas my time has been lintied. I might add that before my wife took the coach out the last time I added some fuel additive and the coach came back almost empty. I had started the engine one time after she returned and the engine ran fine. When I removed the plug that were easy to get there was strong either smell.
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Old 11-27-2011, 06:25 AM   #18
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Mekanic,

Turning the key on and off would have nothing to do with the cranking battery.
If the fuel lines are full of fuel and you turn the key on the pumps will run the one second before you crank and you would have the 30 + PSI for starting.

As far as the voltage when the pump runs it will put out 95-100PSI into a dead head so a lower voltage may only put out 85PSI to a dead head but the fuel pump regulator will bypass anything over 30-34PSI at idle and 40-45PSI at WOT and 45PSI with the engine stopped, key on and pin #6 of the EEC self-test plug shorted to ground. At any rate you will never have over 45PSI with a 460 engine that has a pump that will put out 95-100PSI.
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Old 12-18-2014, 12:21 PM   #19
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I have a problem with my 92 460 engine.We thought it was the fuel pump after checking it it has 40 psiso that's not it.When it quit I was comming up to a stop sign & it sounded like a turbo kicked in & then would only idle,when you pushed on the gas it would die.Anyone have an idea what it could be?
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Old 12-18-2014, 12:31 PM   #20
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Where did my post GO?
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Old 12-18-2014, 01:08 PM   #21
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You should have started a new thread.

I would start by running the KOEO electrical test and checking the CM for any codes after the KOEO test is done.

If you get 111, 111, 1, 111, 111 then go ahead and run the KOER self test and see if that comes up with any codes. The lone 1 is a space between the KOEO and the CM codes.

I can not think of anything making a turbo sounds other than the fan clutch kicking in. But I have heard a sounds something like that if you go to WOT with an engine as it is winding up or dieing out.
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Old 12-18-2014, 01:39 PM   #22
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Thanks Bill but you've got me lost with KOEC & CM codes & KOER. I'am not electrical in cline.Thats why I quit worjing on these engines wit computers.
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Old 12-18-2014, 02:01 PM   #23
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Well KOEO is Key ON and the Engine Off and KOER is is Key ON and the Engine Running with the STI wire grounded.
STI is the Self Test In wire to the PCM Computer.

CM is the stored codes for errors that happened while you were driving it. CM stands for Continuous Memory. The portion of KAM used to store DTCs generated during Continuous Self-Test.
Continuous Self-Test is the continuous test of the EEC system conducted by the PCM whenever the vehicle is operating.
KAM stands for Keep Alive Memory.
DTCs are the error codes and DTC stands for Diagnostic Trouble Code With an alpha/numeric identifier for a fault condition identified by the On-Board Diagnostic System.

Now that you know all of that you can run the self-test and also get the CM codes two ways.
You can ground the STI wire, get behind the wheel with paper and pin, turn on the key and count the flashes of MIL lamp in your cluster or you can buy a code reader for about $30.00 and it will count them for you.
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is a required on-board indicator to alert the driver of an emission related malfunction. May read either "CHECK ENGINE" or "SERVICE ENGINE SOON."

As the code reader goes here is the one to get at an auto part store or on amazon.
Amazon.com: INNOVA 3145 Ford Digital Code Reader: Automotive



The STI wire is the single wire between the thumb and forefinger. You can ground the STI wire by shoring to pin #2 of the self-test plug.
/
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Old 12-18-2014, 02:03 PM   #24
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Weak battery or alternator?

I had a similar problem with my '93 when the battery was very old and weak. It's possible that the alternator kept yours running while you were moving, but didn't have enough to start from idle.

Using your battery boost while you are cranking should get you going temporarily (mine did).

I also don't recall hearing a turbo sound.
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Old 12-23-2014, 06:36 PM   #25
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Bill we found out our troubles,You will never belive what it was. It was a pluged up catiliac converter.It runs like a top now. Thanks for your help.
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