1994 Newmar DutchStar w/ Ford 460 fuel problem?

[Oilfield]

Hello everyone !!!
Just want to see if anyone else has had a problem with this as to narrow down the search.
I have a 1994 Newmar DutchStar we just bought 2 months ago and it has 33,000 miles on it.
Coach runs great going down the road with the following exceptions.
When stopped at a stop sign or red light and you start to move...the coach feels like it is running out of fuel and if you feather the throttle it will clear out and start driving...it will sometimes back fire through the EFI when doing this.
Also...when climbing up a hill under load it feels as if the coach is dogging down..If you lift on the throttle a little, it feels as if it picks up on power.
And one more thing...The coach will start up fine at first start and drive fine until you stop. Then when you start it back up after say 30 minutes it will run rough and then die...Have to crank the engine oer and over until it will finally start...sort of like it is vapor locked....Then it drives fine down the road...but still with the same start/stop and hill climb under load problem.
I have heard the Ford 460's have had problems with the fuel pumps and I am thinking this is the problem.
Any thoughts from anyone?....Thanks in advance.

[rlyons]

My last 95 model did the same thing just before the fuel pump went out completley. If you haven't changed the fuel filter latley it may be plugged. You can rent a fuel pressure gauge from Autozone to check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail on the engine.

[Oilfield]

Changed out the fuel filter first thing when we picked up the RV.
Still had original filter on it when I changed it out and was plugged up
That's why I am thinking fuel pump is going out....Just wanted to see if I was on right track.

[Dunner]

The second trip with my F53 V10, it set lean codes on both banks. I cleared them and they didn't come back. When I went to come home, it blew blue-white smoke, but cleaned out. It was gutless and like "The Minnow" that went on a 3 hour tour, this one took me 5 1/2 hours. Diagnosed it to be dead #5 cylinder. My extended warranty cost me $4500, but a new motor, fuel pump, instrument cluster and dash AC compressor cost my warrant company over $10K. It took 4 months get the CEO off the golf course to sign off on the claim.

It sat all that time off a charger. I complained and got 2 new Trojan T-105s for their cost of 1. Because it took so long and I missed almost all my camping season, I got other discounts.

Replace that fuel pump. BTW, in over 50 years of driving, I have never plugged a fuel filter. Must be the dry air in AZ.

[subford]

Sounds like a bad Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or the wiring to it.

But before diving into it you need to do some checks.
First as noted above put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail, ground pin #6 of the self-test connector and turn on the key and see if you get 42-45psi fuel pressure.
If you do remove the ground from pin #6 and take it for a short drive and watch the gauge. At wide open throttle (WOT) the fuel pressure should be from 40-42psi. At idle when you stop from about 32-34psi. Fuel pressure should never go below 30-32psi at any time.

If all is well with the fuel pressure then run the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) self-test for an electrical test of the wiring and sensors. At the end of the KOEO test you will also get any codes that are stored in Computer Memory (CM). These code from KOEO and the CM will tell you a lot of what is going on and where to look for the problem.

Let us know what you find and we will help you some more.

Also we need to know what year the F53 is that you have under the 1994 home. The tenth digit of the VIN will tell you if you have a 1994 "R" or a 1993 "P". We need to know this to tell you where parts are located and for different parts that it takes.

My 1994 is titled 1995.

[topdownman]

Those F53's of that era were notorious for having failed fuel pumps. The fuel pump had failed on my 95 Holiday Rambler right before I purchased it. This I know because the old fuel pump was still in the basement.

[Oilfield]

Subford...Do you have a link for the key test?
Going to get a fuel pressure gauge today and check that first.
Thanks for the info...Was also wondering about a sensor being bad.

[Oilfield]

Ok...Put on a fuel gauge on the rail and it showed 20 psi at an idle.
While driving down the road it would run at about 15 psi at 55 mph.
When I went to WOT it would drop to about 10 psi
And also the 10th digit on the VIN is R.

[topdownman]

Bingo I think you should have close to 40 PSI. Now, to remove that tank

[rlyons]

Good old high quality Ford. I don't know of anyone who has not had this same problem. They say that they put an improved pump in later models but I don't know when or if that happened.

[subford]

Originally Posted by Oilfield

Subford...Do you have a link for the key test?
Going to get a fuel pressure gauge today and check that first.
Thanks for the info...Was also wondering about a sensor being bad.

You can go here for information on the KOEO self-test.
http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13

The images below shows the self-test plug for the pin #6 I was talking about above and also the STI wire for the KOEO self-test.
But it sounds like you have a fuel pump problem or a stuck open Fuel pressure Regulator.
If you do not have a water tank over the fuel tank some have cut a hole in the floor to change out the pump and then they will also have easy access to it on the road if fails again.
Also the TSB on the newer fuel pump is also below.





/

[Oilfield]

I have about 8 to 10 inches from the tank top to bottom of floor.
Measured where the fuel pump will come out and it looks to be right below the wall that separates the bathroom from the bedroom
Not sure if I can remove the carpet on the bedroom side and cut a hole near the wall and still gain access...of course that wold be to easy .Will have to some thinking on this....would much rather cut an access hole than drop that tank....it's full of fuel...
Anyone have a source of the best place to get a new fuel pump..Are they a dealer item or can I pick it up through O'Reiley's or NAPA ?

[Oilfield]

Also checked the codes and all I got was a code 33
3 flashes, a pause, then 3 flashes.
A longer pause, then 1 flash
Says the code is for EGR valve opening not detected...Don't think will cause the fuel issue though
Pretty sure it's the fuel pump fellers

[rlyons]

I bought mine at Advance Auto parts. The EGR would not cause low fuel pressure.