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kb2ztx · 05-17-2015, 05:19 AM

So this winter we purchased a used 97 bounder with the 460. We drove it home about 3 hours away and just prior to getting off the interstate the gauge read 1/2 tank. We hit some bumps and the gauge went to full (over full). In looking at past service records this was fixed at least 3 other times. All time the paper work showed fixed loose wire.

Yesterday I crawled under the rig and searched around for a harness. I found a single ground wire behind the tank that looked rough so i took it off, ground the frame down and redrilled and bolted back on. No difference. There is a molex plug next to it and un plugged and back. This appears to only affect the rear lights.

I did tear into the dash and all looks tight. Being it worked fine until the bump im convinced the issue is wires. Does anyone know what wire plugs into the back of the gauge panel ? I have 2 plugs but read some stuff that said yellow wire. None of mine have yellow wires.

I really dread having to drop that huge tank.

subford · 05-17-2015, 05:46 AM

As you may know a pegged gauge means you have an open wire from the gauge through the fuel gauge sender and then to ground or the anti-slosh module has came loose where it plugs into the cluster.
It is a yellow wire with a white stripe.

The wiring:

Amti-Slosh module:

Note wiring diagram shows this wire as pin number 5 and not 6 and on the black plug. I think it may have changed in 1995 when they added the tachometer from pin #6 to #5 and used the other plug. A 1994 plug is in the image below without the tachometer.

Fuel gauge sender:

Fuel gauge and pump ground (G300):

The fuel sender wire goes through C218 pin #12 on its way from the gauge to the fuel sender:

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kb2ztx · 05-17-2015, 06:01 AM

Thanks. I did pull the anti slosh module to look at the pins. I'll get back in there this morning and go thru it some more. I assumed the same as it being an open wire. I looked at the plug and didn't see a yellow with white wire, but i'll double check. The ground wire G300 is the one that I removed from the frame and cleaned and rebolted with a new bolt. Did not seem to change anything.

Will advise in a few hours !

subford · 05-17-2015, 07:35 AM

OOPS, I sent a 1996 F53 gauge wiring. Here is the 1997 F53 gauge wiring:

C206 & C140:

C218 & C300:

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kb2ztx · 05-17-2015, 05:52 PM

Bill thanks for all the diagrams. I again pulled the dash apart and found resistance on the yellow white wire. With that said I did not see it on the anti slosh module. I removed all the plugs from the instruments cluster and took some steel wool to the circuit/plug plastic (what ever its called). When i plugged all back in the gauge went to half tankish. Unplugging the slosh module it goes back to full so i think its the cluster. We are going camping this weekend so i'll fill it back up and see if the gauge is semi accurate. I read on a ford truck forum guys that cut the plugs off and solder to cluster but not sure i want to spend the time on it !

subford · 05-17-2015, 06:04 PM

The gauge will point to passed full if the anti-slosh module is not in the cluster.

Note you can unplug any of the plugs on the way to the gauge sender and if you ground that yellow wire with a white stripe the gauge should point to below empty.
With the wire not grounded (open) it should point to passed full.

The anti-slosh module is just a gauge delay for the reading.

kb2ztx · 05-25-2015, 04:11 PM

Thanks again Bill. It worked fine until I hit a bump again this weekend then back to pegged over full. Looks like I got some more work to do now. I think it's in the cluster but will check some other stuff you mentioned