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Shiba_Alex · 04-07-2019, 06:12 AM

Thanks CJ. That’s given me more confidence that it should go well. I’m planning on doing the change either today or next weekend.

What did you use for blowing out the hole? I’m thinking a can of compressed air or getting an attachment for the compressor to blow air out of.

Shiba_Alex · 06-23-2019, 02:29 PM

It’s been a while and I didn’t change the plugs and COP’s until today but I have to say it was easier than I thought. I half expected for the old plugs to take a long time to get out or that they would be fused to the head. Surprisingly they came out with not much effort. I cleaned the holes and sprayed some pblaster in. I waited about 5-10 minutes and tried one of the plugs. It didn’t take much force to loosen them. I had an issue with the spark plug socket getting stuck in the hole but I was able to remedy that. Once all of the plugs were in, the COP’s went in pretty easily.

Once everything was back in place, I fired up the engine and listened for any misfires. I didn’t hear any. I also rev’d it up and it sounded soo much better and louder. It might have been because I had the doghouse off.

Overall it was easier than I thought it was going to be. I wish I had done this sooner. I have not taken it for a drive yet, but it seems promising.

twinboat · 06-23-2019, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shiba_Alex

It’s been a while and I didn’t change the plugs and COP’s until today but I have to say it was easier than I thought. I half expected for the old plugs to take a long time to get out or that they would be fused to the head. Surprisingly they came out with not much effort. I cleaned the holes and sprayed some pblaster in. I waited about 5-10 minutes and tried one of the plugs. It didn’t take much force to loosen them. I had an issue with the spark plug socket getting stuck in the hole but I was able to remedy that. Once all of the plugs were in, the COP’s went in pretty easily.

Once everything was back in place, I fired up the engine and listened for any misfires. I didn’t hear any. I also rev’d it up and it sounded soo much better and louder. It might have been because I had the doghouse off.

Overall it was easier than I thought it was going to be. I wish I had done this sooner. I have not taken it for a drive yet, but it seems promising.

Ford is pretty particular about torquing the plugs in the early V10 engines. Did you research and follow their procedures ?

Shiba_Alex · 06-26-2019, 09:14 PM

I torqued the plugs down to 24 ft/lbs per the overwhelming support to go higher than the factory 14 ft/lbs. I just had the engine on for a few minutes to hear for any knocking or pinging but didn’t hear any. Also, no spark plugs decided to fly out.

Waiter21 · 06-27-2019, 07:21 AM

Quote:

It didn’t take much force to loosen them

I experienced the same thing when I replaced mine. I'm positive they were OEM and had never been touched, It seemed like they wern't tight and came out to easy.

I torqued the new ones to 25 ft-lbs.

leadman · 06-28-2019, 08:04 AM

I changed the plugs in my 1999 with 43,000 miles on it. They were not worn but had carbon build-up on some. I would not have wanted to run these to 100K.
The engine ran smoother and had more power after the spark plugs were changed. I have 11k miles on the new plugs and no problems. I did torque to 24 ft pounds.

Kahoona · 06-28-2019, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mojim

be careful on plug torque (very important)

What he said! The problem with the plugs flying out ans stripping threads happened when the plugs worked loose and rattled in their threads until they blew out of their now oversize holes. It is very rare to see a mechanic using a torque wrench on plugs but that is critical here. People afraid of stripping those three threads would not get them correct.

CJ7ole · 06-28-2019, 06:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kahoona

What he said! The problem with the plugs flying out ans stripping threads happened when the plugs worked loose and rattled in their threads until they blew out of their now oversize holes. It is very rare to see a mechanic using a torque wrench on plugs but that is critical here. People afraid of stripping those three threads would not get them correct.

Just to be clear, torque them to 28 ft-lbs, not per the old ford spec, which left them liable to loosen up and blow out.

"Factory specs call for torquing them to 11 ft-lbs, but I went with the recommendation from blownoutsparkplug.com and bumped it up to 28 ft-lbs. Partly because they were so loose when removed and partly because the blown plug guys said ten certified Ford mechanics are using 28 ft-lbs and they have bench tested the plugs on an aluminum head at 100 ft-lbs without stripping."

Waiter21 · 06-28-2019, 07:04 PM

I'd do between 22 - 25 ft lbs..

Use only Autolite or Motorcraft plugs that are nickle plated. I use Autolite APP103. (You can usually find a rebate coupon to get the cost down)

I put a thin film of antiszieze on the threads, don't glob it on like I do with bolts

Shiba_Alex · 06-29-2019, 09:43 AM

Hey guys. I just had my first little trip, about 170 miles, with the new spark plugs and was kinda disappointed. Nothing wrong (pinging or knocking), but I was hoping for a little bit more get up and go.

Nickd · 06-29-2019, 11:27 AM

Couple of tanks of Sea Foam or BG 44k will get out all the carbon (from the valves and piston tops too). The engine will run much better too. I would wait until 100k if it were mine. These newer engines and plugs do not wear like the old Ford 352, 390 or 460’s

Carbon build up from poor/old gas is the usually the biggest problem. I use BG 44k to clean things up and improve performance. I hear great things about Sea Foam too, just haven’t tried that yet.