Community Forums

chucksel · 07-19-2013, 11:01 AM

Hi everyone,

I am new here and this is my first post. I am wanting to completely tear apart and replace the entire braking system on my 2000 Fleetwood Flair 32 (except for brake lines and master cylinder). An RV mechanic is recommending that I replace 2 of the 4 rotors and for me to consider replacing all 4 and the calipers as well. I have been quoted 3,000 dollars for the parts and labor. Looking at online parts places and eBay reveal that I can replace all 4 rotors, all 4 calipers (with pads) with Raybestos parts for around $600. I am fairly handy so I am considering doing this work myself if I can get an F53 chassis service manual.

Anyone have any advice or tips for doing this work and getting the F53 chassis manual?

Best regards,
Chucksel

Skip426 · 07-19-2013, 11:21 AM

Sounds like a project.
Remember safety first, make sure you have proper supports , jacks and axle stands, torque wrench for tightening the wheels and re-torque after 50 miles. I've only done brakes on a Workhorse Chassis so I'll let the Ford folks chime in with their comments.

Nick-B · 07-19-2013, 03:32 PM

Hi chucksel and

Did you look here for your chassis manual?
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/ford-...ual-72684.html
Don't know if those cover actual brake assembly work but if you've done disk brakes before they should by similar just bigger.

I must ask why you won't be replacing the master cylinder and flex hoses? It is just the sort of thing that will come back and bite you later. Your chassis is 14 years old, so (IMHO) time to freshen up the whole system and know that is ALL good. Brakes are just too important on a 15,000 lbs motorhome!

jamesrxx951 · 07-19-2013, 03:41 PM

I would try to google some sort of service manual for brakes or go to a local parts store. They usually have some pretty decent manuals for this sort of task. I don't know why the rotors and calipers were recommended but this is usually items that get replaced for no reason. If there is no brake pedal pulsation, rotors are not rust pitted, and they measure within specs (36 MM for the fronts and 36 MM for the rear). These are the minimum thickness. The factory rotors are a very good rotor and most aftermarket replacements are good but not as good as the factory ones. If they can be reused, by all means keep them.

The calipers are also an item that typically does not need replaced. If the pistons move in their bore freely and not leaking, they are still good. However, since the brake fluid should be flushed, the bleeders may be the reason of the replacement.

TeJay · 07-19-2013, 04:53 PM

Listen to what James says. He know what he's talking about.

The rotors: Find a decent shop that can determine if the the rotors can be machined and still be thick enough. The thickness is necessary so the rotors can absorb the heat generated while braking. If they are to thin they will heat up and cause glazing of the pads and maybe warped rotors.

If they can't be salvaged then replace them with factory or NAPA rotors. MY 40 years experience says NAPA will provide a good replacement rotor. There are many, many, many ways to short cut the quality of a rotor. If you really want more information PM me and I'll tell ya. Take my word for it or you will be sorry. DON'T BUY BASED ENTIRELY ON PRICE BECAUSE THAT WILL HURT YOU AS WELL.

Replace those flexible hoses. That was great advice. They are 14 years old. You don't want to get bit in the butt.

Rebuilding the calipers is not that difficult. You may or may not have to replace the pistons. If after you take them apart they are OK(not pitted) then you are good. Just get the rebuilding kits and have a ball.

Master cylinder should also be replaced. Flush the entire system of old fluid. That stuff is corrosive because it is hygroscopic (absorbs water) which rusts the internal parts.

Need help just ask and best of luck with this project. It's great when a plan comes together.

TeJay

Hikerdogs · 07-19-2013, 06:14 PM

Ford Truck workshop manuals are almost always available on e bay. I bought the CD version for our 2001 F53 chassis. I see at least 1 available now for $27.99. Be sure to get the one that includes the F53 chassis.

Ford made at least 2 versions. One is meant for the car/light trucks and only has only information about pickups, Expeditions, Explorers, etc, The other is meant for HD truck shops and includes everything from the Ranger to the F750.

Here's a link to one currently available:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Ford-F-150-F-250-F-350-Ranger-Excursion-Expedition-Truck-CD-Service-Manual-/230956828646?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=ite m35c61987e6&vxp=mtr

chucksel · 07-20-2013, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick-B

Hi chucksel and

Did you look here for your chassis manual?
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/ford-...ual-72684.html
Don't know if those cover actual brake assembly work but if you've done disk brakes before they should by similar just bigger.

I must ask why you won't be replacing the master cylinder and flex hoses? It is just the sort of thing that will come back and bite you later. Your chassis is 14 years old, so (IMHO) time to freshen up the whole system and know that is ALL good. Brakes are just too important on a 15,000 lbs motorhome!

That is good advice. I think I'll do that and have a 100% new braking system.

Thanks!
-Chuck

chucksel · 07-20-2013, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeJay

Listen to what James says. He know what he's talking about.

The rotors: Find a decent shop that can determine if the the rotors can be machined and still be thick enough. The thickness is necessary so the rotors can absorb the heat generated while braking. If they are to thin they will heat up and cause glazing of the pads and maybe warped rotors.

If they can't be salvaged then replace them with factory or NAPA rotors. MY 40 years experience says NAPA will provide a good replacement rotor. There are many, many, many ways to short cut the quality of a rotor. If you really want more information PM me and I'll tell ya. Take my word for it or you will be sorry. DON'T BUY BASED ENTIRELY ON PRICE BECAUSE THAT WILL HURT YOU AS WELL.

Replace those flexible hoses. That was great advice. They are 14 years old. You don't want to get bit in the butt.

Rebuilding the calipers is not that difficult. You may or may not have to replace the pistons. If after you take them apart they are OK(not pitted) then you are good. Just get the rebuilding kits and have a ball.

Master cylinder should also be replaced. Flush the entire system of old fluid. That stuff is corrosive because it is hygroscopic (absorbs water) which rusts the internal parts.

Need help just ask and best of luck with this project. It's great when a plan comes together.

TeJay

Thanks. VERY good advice! Isn't Raybestos a well-known and long-respected name in the brake industry? They make all of the brake components for this chassis.

Chuck

chucksel · 07-20-2013, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick-B

Hi chucksel and

Did you look here for your chassis manual?
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/ford-...ual-72684.html
Don't know if those cover actual brake assembly work but if you've done disk brakes before they should by similar just bigger.

I must ask why you won't be replacing the master cylinder and flex hoses? It is just the sort of thing that will come back and bite you later. Your chassis is 14 years old, so (IMHO) time to freshen up the whole system and know that is ALL good. Brakes are just too important on a 15,000 lbs motorhome!

Are the Ford part numbers usually in these service manuals? Anyone know the part numbers for the flex hoses for the 2000 Ford F53 chassis?

jamesrxx951 · 07-20-2013, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chucksel

Are the Ford part numbers usually in these service manuals? Anyone know the part numbers for the flex hoses for the 2000 Ford F53 chassis?

All of the manuals that I have seen do not include the entire part number. Just the base part number. If you want to PM me or post the chassis VIN number I can get the latest part numbers for you when I get to work on Monday.

chucksel · 07-20-2013, 07:13 PM

It probably goes without saying that while it is all torn apart to replace the brake components that I replace the wheel bearings on this coach too or no? I bought it used a couple of months ago with 54,000 miles on it and I'd hate to have a problem with wheel bearings after the brake job.

jamesrxx951 · 07-20-2013, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chucksel

It probably goes without saying that while it is all torn apart to replace the brake components that I replace the wheel bearings on this coach too or no? I bought it used a couple of months ago with 54,000 miles on it and I'd hate to have a problem with wheel bearings after the brake job.

While it cant hurt, if there is no wear or noise from them, no need to. These bearings really don't go bad unless there is a lack of lube. However, for the price of them, why not. Don't forget new seals. I personally just repack them every year as part of my new season maint. It really is not needed to do that every season because of the mileage I put on it, but it is one of those things that make me feel better. I also remove the caliper slides and lube them also.

BTW, most of the names of the bearing that I have seen from NAPA and other parts stores are the same name as the Ford ones. Usually a little cheaper also. I believe they are Timkin.

TeJay · 07-20-2013, 09:04 PM

The best way to determine if the bearings are still OK is to remove the bearing and wipe the grease off the bearing with a rag, towel or something. then examine the grease. If you see any sparkles in the grease that means the bearing is bad. The bearing rollers are case hardened. When they fail they get hot and the case hardening is compromised. When that happens the metal begins to flake off hence the sparkles. Here's the interesting part. Yes when bearings go bad they will visibly look bad and they will make a very distinctive howling sound. Most everybody knows that. What they may not know is that several miles before they started making the noise the bearing material was flaking off. So the sparkles you see are a sign of impending doom and you see that long before you can see or hear any other signs.

I also never washed out bearing with solvent. You can but you also have to make darn sure that you get all the solvent out before you start re-packing. For 35 years I only wiped them clean then hand packed them and never had one come back. Also use a good synthetic grease (Amsoil, Mobil 1). That suff is 10X's better than regular grease. I want all the advantages I can get.

TeJay