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IdahoSRT10 · 10-31-2015, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ualdriver

Thanks for letting me know. I didn't realize that the transmission held that much fluid. That in and of itself can't be cheap.

I have done a few of these, in layman's terms> Buy 12 qt. of Mercon LV, you will have some left over. Drain via trans drain plug. You may remove the pan to clean the inside of it. The pan gasket is re-useable. The filter is just a screen so no need to replace it.
Replace the same amount of fluid that is drained. Check fluid when warm and the engine running, RV level. Achieving the correct fluid level is a bit tricky so don't get in a hurry and don't overfill. Overfilling will cause fluid to leak from the top of the trans. via a vent.

aauummm · 10-31-2015, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ualdriver

Thanks for letting me know. I didn't realize that the transmission held that much fluid. That in and of itself can't be cheap.

You're welcome. It surprised me also. Actually by the owner's manual it says that it holds 18 qts, so maybe there's a couple of qts that get stuck up there? Ford said that my pan gasket was seeping fluid so that is why they replaced it. I haven't gotten a chance to get under there and look at it.

Sweetbriar · 11-01-2015, 04:42 PM

I do a drain and fills in the driveway. Could only get 12 quarts out of 19 listed capacity. The problem is you can't drain the torque converter. A hot flush will get it all but that requires some special equipment.

Measure what you drain and refill the same amount. I used a 3 gallon bucket that I marked with quart levels. At the external filter I used compress air to force fluid out of the cooler and associated hoses. Hardest part was refilling down the dipstick pipe. Used a funnel with about 6 feet of 3/8 hose. Stood on a ladder a couple of feet up to add each quart.

I decrease the recommended change interval from 30K miles to 20K since I'm not doing a complete drain. Pre-change sample sent out for analysis. So far at 50K miles nothing of concern.

Also do a bit of research on what fluid to use. Ford changes the specs every couple of years. My 06 uses Mercon SP for example. Also if you search You Tube there are multiple up loads of the procedures. Might not be exactly the same as you chassis model year but in general the procedure is pretty simple.

ualdriver · 11-01-2015, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sweetbriar

I decrease the recommended change interval from 30K miles to 20K since I'm not doing a complete drain. Pre-change sample sent out for analysis. So far at 50K miles nothing of concern.

Also do a bit of research on what fluid to use. Ford changes the specs every couple of years. My 06 uses Mercon SP for example. Also if you search You Tube there are multiple up loads of the procedures. Might not be exactly the same as you chassis model year but in general the procedure is pretty simple.

Thanks. Who do you use for the fluid analysis?

aauummm · 11-01-2015, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sweetbriar

I do a drain and fills in the driveway. Could only get 12 quarts out of 19 listed capacity. The problem is you can't drain the torque converter. A hot flush will get it all but that requires some special equipment.

Measure what you drain and refill the same amount. I used a 3 gallon bucket that I marked with quart levels. At the external filter I used compress air to force fluid out of the cooler and associated hoses. Hardest part was refilling down the dipstick pipe. Used a funnel with about 6 feet of 3/8 hose. Stood on a ladder a couple of feet up to add each quart.

I decrease the recommended change interval from 30K miles to 20K since I'm not doing a complete drain. Pre-change sample sent out for analysis. So far at 50K miles nothing of concern.

Also do a bit of research on what fluid to use. Ford changes the specs every couple of years. My 06 uses Mercon SP for example. Also if you search You Tube there are multiple up loads of the procedures. Might not be exactly the same as you chassis model year but in general the procedure is pretty simple.

That's a good point on the fluid to use. My 2011 chassis specs calls for Mercon LV whereas I noticed that Ford put Mercon V in it. I compared the two fluids and the only difference is in the viscosity. The Mercon LV has a slightly lower viscosity.

Sweetbriar · 11-02-2015, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ualdriver

Thanks. Who do you use for the fluid analysis?

Blackstone Labs

cbilodeau · 11-03-2015, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ualdriver

If you could tell me where they are and how to access, that would be helpful.

I also noticed that the instructions were for a different year. I assume the 2011 is the same procedure?

Mercon V: Synthetic Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is for all 4R70/4R75/4R100 applications through 2008. I tried some non Mercon V and had big problems.

Mercon SP: Low Viscosity Synthetic ATF (ATL) is for the 5R110 (TorqShift) through 2008.

Mercon LV: Low Viscosity Synthetic ATF (ATL) is for ALL 2009+ transmissions - 4R70/4R75/6R80/5R110.

Mercon LV is not compatible with Mercon V

ualdriver · 11-03-2015, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cbilodeau

Mercon V: Synthetic Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is for all 4R70/4R75/4R100 applications through 2008. I tried some non Mercon V and had big problems.

Mercon SP: Low Viscosity Synthetic ATF (ATL) is for the 5R110 (TorqShift) through 2008.

Mercon LV: Low Viscosity Synthetic ATF (ATL) is for ALL 2009+ transmissions - 4R70/4R75/6R80/5R110.

Mercon LV is not compatible with Mercon V

Cool, thanks. Looks like for my 2011 Triton V10 I'd be using the Mercon LV.

ualdriver · 11-04-2015, 09:44 PM

I was talking with a local mechanic and he told me that when I change the fluid that if it doesn't come out nice and red or it appears to have "burned," that I should only change out half the fluid, refill with new fluid, then in 3000 miles do a complete drain and fill. Does that sound right?

Arch Hoagland · 11-04-2015, 11:10 PM

I do all my own transmission fluid changes on my Workhorse W22 with an Allison transmission.

I realize your's is totally different but I'll share some my experience.

Like Sweetbriar I drain into a large bucket that's marked so that I know exactly how much fluid drained out.

I've found that on mine if I let it drain for 24 hours I will get an extra quart out.

Mine has a spin on filter, like an oil filter, so that's pretty simple to change.

I then refill with the same amount that drained out.

Next I'll drive the rig around for about 20 miles and then drain it again.

That's because I can't get all the fluid out in one drain and is the recommended procedure.

On mine a power flush is NOT recommended.

On my last change I went to Transynd which is an expensive synthetic but will not have to be changed for a long long time.

By doing it yourself you will know that it's done right.

Oh, by the way, my old fluid is taken by our waste management company on trash day.

Mark Kovalsky · 11-05-2015, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ualdriver

I was talking with a local mechanic and he told me that when I change the fluid that if it doesn't come out nice and red or it appears to have "burned," that I should only change out half the fluid, refill with new fluid, then in 3000 miles do a complete drain and fill. Does that sound right?

No, that's not right. That will just cost you more fluid with no benefit.

ualdriver · 11-05-2015, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky

No, that's not right. That will just cost you more fluid with no benefit.

It didn't sound right. I'll talk to him about just doing a complete drain the first time around.

cbilodeau · 11-06-2015, 03:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ualdriver

I was talking with a local mechanic and he told me that when I change the fluid that if it doesn't come out nice and red or it appears to have "burned," that I should only change out half the fluid, refill with new fluid, then in 3000 miles do a complete drain and fill. Does that sound right?

I overfilled my transmission last year because I made a computation mistake.

The oïl went out by the overfill hose when I drove. But the oïl also burned and had a big burn smell. Probably the transmission was overheating. I drove only 20 miles like this and came back home.

I then drained from the pan plug the oïl once more and put new oïl (around 7 quart). But this did not fix the smell. I drove 5000 miles like this and then changed the oïl once more from the pan plug (around 7 quarts). After this second change, there was barely no more burn smell in my oïl.

So I suppose your mechanic specialist when he talks about half-change he means changing the oïl from the pan which drain only half of the total oïl of the transmission and takes only a few minutes to do. I suppose they charge less to do it that way but charge a lot more for a complete flush.

Anyway, since I will always change my oïl myself and I will always do a rapid half-change, I have decided to do it at each 10000 miles instead of 30000 miles. That means 30$ each two years for me.

Probably Mark would say it is not ideal but it saves me times and this is very easy. Some tranmissions should be happier than mine but I tell mine: you have 7 new synthetic quarts each 10000 miles, that's not bad at all, life could be worst for you.

Mark Kovalsky · 11-06-2015, 07:10 AM

It's not ideal, but it is way more good than bad. It is a valid method to change the fluid. In fact, in newer transmissions they have eliminated the torque converter drain plug and added an internal thermostat. This makes a heated fluid machine the only way to change all the fluids. In these cases I recommend the partial changes you are doing because heated flush machines are extremely rare.