Community Forums

STORMY 1 · 07-04-2017, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeJay

I've looked on three different Technicians CD's from Ford. The differential cover bolts are all torqued to 45 FT/Lbs. It should not matter if a company has included longer bolts or not. The torque will be the same.

When torquing bolts into a housing the steel threads in the housing have to be considered as well as the grade and size of the bolts being used. We consider that when buying nuts for bolts. It does not stand to reason that a company would provide different grade bolts to attach their particular device to the same housing without taking into consideration the housing itself. If they did not provide different grade bolts then 45 ft/'lbs will work.

In addition to that I installed my DIY rear TB to the housing and based on the DIY plate that was made got 1/2" longer bolts. They are torqued to 45 ft lbs but I also used lock tight for added insurance. We've got 20,000 miles on it and all is well.

The DIY TB design has been used by at least 40 folks and nobody has reported that their TB has come loose. I did report on the DIY thread that I had a bolt come loose. That was before I used the lock tight.

Tejay

I have followed your threads for several years now and enjoy the great information you offer. I want to do the CHF on my new Newmar Baystar. The place that dies my Joni's, track bar and safety steer said the angles were bad and did not want to do the CHF.
I have seen the blue super strong adjustable brackets with the extra holes to "fine tune" the CHF. Where would I get those if I wanted to purchase? Brazel's said they would do it, if the angles were close to stock on the way i.e. Rods.

Thanks for your great advice through the years.

STORMY 1 · 07-04-2017, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by STORMY 1

Tejay

I have followed your threads for several years now and enjoy the great information you offer. I want to do the CHF on my new Newmar Baystar. The place that dies my Joni's, track bar and safety steer said the angles were bad and did not want to do the CHF.
I have seen the blue super strong adjustable brackets with the extra holes to "fine tune" the CHF. Where would I get those if I wanted to purchase? Brazel's said they would do it, if the angles were close to stock on the way i.e. Rods.

Thanks for your great advice through the years.

Make that "does my Koni's"
Spell check is not perfect and neither am I.

sedaliaterry · 07-04-2017, 06:50 PM

Stormy 1,

You are referring to front as far as CHF angles?? The rear should be fine. I did the rear on my Bay Star and the angle was not bad IMO. Easy procedure.

I put a Road Master on the front and it replaced the OEM front bar (I put a RM SB on the rear also but it works in conjunction with the OEM rear SB). If I had not done the RM on the front, I would have pursued the adjustable link bracket like you for the front CHF, because the angle there is definitely too flat on that 2nd hole setting.

Terry

marjoa · 07-04-2017, 09:01 PM

I installed this same unit on our MH and we have a Dana M80 Diff. and the factory said bracket bolts to the Diff 145’ lbs. .75” Tie Rod Assembly bolts 150 - 180 ft. lbs.

STORMY 1 · 07-11-2017, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by STORMY 1

Tejay

I have followed your threads for several years now and enjoy the great information you offer. I want to do the CHF on my new Newmar Baystar. The place that dies my Joni's, track bar and safety steer said the angles were bad and did not want to do the CHF.
I have seen the blue super strong adjustable brackets with the extra holes to "fine tune" the CHF. Where would I get those if I wanted to purchase? Brazel's said they would do it, if the angles were close to stock on the way i.e. Rods.

Thanks for your great advice through the years.

Tejay

I contacted you just before we both left for road trips. I am the guy who wants to buy four of your complete CHF brackets that you make. I am not very good at figuring out how to get ahold of you on this forum. Takes me forever. Anyway, you and I get back home about the same time. Are your
"Sets" four brackets or two? I want to do front and rear on my 2017 Newmar Baystar 35' coach which Has a 22,000lb chassis. Will your brackets
enable the tie rod angles to be close to 90'? Please get back to me with your address so that I can send you a check. I can't find your old response. I am so bad at this.

Best regards,

Jerry Hardie
C: 425-941-0640
H: 425-844-2094
Seattle/ Carnation, Washington.

TeJay · 07-12-2017, 07:29 AM

marjoa,

The Dana 80 has a separate differential cover and the cover just keeps the fluid inside so it is not an integral part of the assembly. The other two differentials used by Ford on the F-53 chassis do have the third member, or pig as it is also called. That's the only way to get inside the housing and the bolts that hold the ring and pinion gears together do require torques above the 100 ft/lb range.

This is night and day difference as far as how they are assembled.

sedaliaterry · 07-12-2017, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by STORMY 1

Tejay

I contacted you just before we both left for road trips. I am the guy who wants to buy four of your complete CHF brackets that you make. I am not very good at figuring out how to get ahold of you on this forum. Takes me forever. Anyway, you and I get back home about the same time. Are your
"Sets" four brackets or two? I want to do front and rear on my 2017 Newmar Baystar 35' coach which Has a 22,000lb chassis. Will your brackets
enable the tie rod angles to be close to 90'? Please get back to me with your address so that I can send you a check. I can't find your old response. I am so bad at this.

Best regards,

Jerry Hardie
C: 425-941-0640
H: 425-844-2094
Seattle/ Carnation, Washington.

STORMY 1,

Never a good ideal to share your phone/contact info this openly. Best to send a Private Message (PM). To do this just click on the POST name of the individual you want to send to and a menu will pop up from which you can choose PM. See Attached PIC below.

Terry

vwd · 01-03-2018, 01:30 PM

I am getting ready to install a trac bar on a F53 26k chassis. I appreciate your pictures, they alleviate some of my fears. In the pictures and the instructions there are two holes in the frame bracket for the trac bar. No mention of which to use in the instructions. Why did you use the top hole?

sedaliaterry · 01-04-2018, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwd

I am getting ready to install a trac bar on a F53 26k chassis. I appreciate your pictures, they alleviate some of my fears. In the pictures and the instructions there are two holes in the frame bracket for the trac bar. No mention of which to use in the instructions. Why did you use the top hole?

Clearance for the TrackBar arm to pivot as the axle/differential and frame move up/down and apart with the road conditions.

bruce91 · 01-04-2018, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sedaliaterry

Actually just got done with the install, and yes the instructions did list the torque specs. In my case, I have a 22k chassis (which as I read the chassis book says I have the Dana S130), I had to use the metric (large bolt) differential bracket, and the torque ended up being 150ft lbs. I definitely put Loctite on. (Torque specs pic attached).

Thanks for all the research, I would not have guessed the specs can vary so much.

Looking at this thread as in the next few days i will be completing my DIY TB (track Bar). I looked at the instructions awhile back that supersteer had on their web site for their TB. For some wrong reason i had the 120 ft/lb stuck in my mind. Reading your post having the metric 10.9 bolts as i do i now know to go to 142 - 158 ft/lb.

I Got my TB plate back today from the weld shop that flame cut it. He had cleanned it up really good so i don't have to touch it up. I drilled the holes in the plate and off to storage 2 miles away for a test fit, fit good.

I do have to clean up a hole in the stabilizer bracket then back for a final test fit and a few pictures. Then to paint and final install.

TeJay · 01-04-2018, 07:11 PM

Bruce,

Sounds like a plan.. Neat when you can do those things and save some good $$$$$. It's also an accomplishment and I know you learned a bunch of stuff you can apply to the next DIY project.

Hope the family is doing well!!!!!

bruce91 · 01-05-2018, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sedaliaterry

TeJay.

I think they may re-sell someone else TB (but not sure).

Terry

Awhile back i had called Roadmaster with a question and the conversdation led to track bars. I was told that they are manufacturing the track bar for supersteer.

i was thinking that those like sedaliaterry who purchased their TB from Supersteer and get 2 plates and some hardware for both the US and metric applications. This would leave them with one or the other plate and fasteners that wasn't need as extra. The only difference i see looking at the SS the instructions on line is they supply both US & metric bolts and nuts and 2 TB plates with drillings for US or metric, plates appear to be the same configuration. Why not post on irv2 for sale the parts not needed. The most involved part of doing the DIY track bar is making the DF plate. All the other bits and pieces are easily bought. Just a thought to pass it forward.

TeJay · 01-05-2018, 08:41 AM

Bruce,

Not a bad idea. They do charge a good price for the plates so maybe it's easier to send both as opposed to paying for return shipping. If you know about how that stuff is made and what you paid for your plate they are making a good profit for those TB's at $500. they can afford to send both plates.

Once you have an automatic waster jet or laser cutter, or cutting torch set up they are cut out like cookies. They buy 4' X 8" sheets of 3/8" steel at better prices because they are buying in quantity. I buy two 20' lengths of flat stock for my adjustable plates at $70 for both pieces.

Getting some of these folks to cooperate on posting on the forum would be a challenge but it's worth a try.

sedaliaterry · 01-05-2018, 10:35 AM

I used the metric plate and have the US one out in the barn. You are not talking about drilling additional holes in the US plate to make it into a metric though are you?

I never really looked at the hole spacing between the 2 plates to compare things with that thought in mind. Not sure how close the original vs new holes would be.

Certainly if someone has a need for a US plate that works...