2017 F53 Sway Control

[Waiter21]

You need to remove the bolts from the links on both sides. Then the sway bar should pivot up so you can now put the bolts in the aft holes.

[Davidm59]

Originally Posted by Brockx

What chassis do you have? If it is not on the 24/26K chassis then 38 feet is going to be a challange due to the length behind the rear wheels. I'm very happy with the handling and only added the safe-t-plus to help with a blow out.

I called Ford this morning to ask about which frame that I have. I have a 24,000 lb. frame. I got the CHF completed yesterday, but haven't gotten to take it for a test drive yet.

[Davidm59]

Originally Posted by Waiter21

You need to remove the bolts from the links on both sides. Then the sway bar should pivot up so you can now put the bolts in the aft holes.

I got the CHF completed yesterday. I have not had a chance to take it for a test drive yet. The rear was a lot easier to do than the front.
Thanks for the advice about removing both bolts.

[marjoa]

Originally Posted by Davidm59

I know this question has been asked before, but couldn't find an answer in the forum replies. I have a Georgetown Xl, 38' feet long with about 12,000 miles. I have installed the Safety Plus stabilizer, but need more help. Recently we took a 200 mile trip and we bucked the east wind all the way, wind gusting up to 15mph. I fought to keep the motorhome in my lane most of the way and was wore out once we arrived.
Reading the other forum posts, it seems like front & rear trac bars are the call and maybe sumo springs. Have any of you folks tried this fix with any success?
I am in the Houston, Tx. area and looking for some help.

We FT and travel 24/7/365 and our chassis is 22K, 228" wheelbase, 22.5" tires, 35.3' long, fully loaded with gear and clothes, 2 bikes and rack, 1/3 tank of water and full tank of gas we weigh in at around 21,200 GVWR and we tow our toad 4 down. These chassis specs, along with all the chassis mod's we made to our coach that you can see listed in our signature, we did before we started traveling. All of these mod's—performing together—make our coach solid, stays in her own lane, doesn't get pushed around and is a dream to drive. I usually run around 62-65mph and usually get anywhere from 7.0-7.5mpg depending on terrain.

With that being said, when you have strong cross winds it's going to move you around some. Just watch the 18 wheelers in front of you. It's a box moving at near hurricane force speeds. It's just the way it is, but these mod's will CERTAINLY make it whole lot easier to handle, more stable and easier to drive. If it's really windy like 20, 25 or more, we juts change our reservations and stay put till better weather conditions. It's just not worth it driving in dangerous or risky conditions.

Since it appears you're fairly new to all this stuff, get on the web NOW and start collecting every document and manual you can find about your coach. Chassis specs, plumbing, wiring and lube diagrams, sealant call out sheets, maintenance PM items and so forth. There are reams of stuff about your coach you should have at your finger tips at all times. Start gathering it now, so you'll have it when you need it and avoid going into panic mode when you don't have it and really, really need it.

Lastly, since you installed a Safe-T-Plus you might want to watch this video I did. I think you'll find it very helpful.

God luck my friend.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhagvT3pPWE&t=407s

[elbrat1]

Originally Posted by Davidm59

I know this question has been asked before, but couldn't find an answer in the forum replies. I have a Georgetown Xl, 38' feet long with about 12,000 miles. I have installed the Safety Plus stabilizer, but need more help. Recently we took a 200 mile trip and we bucked the east wind all the way, wind gusting up to 15mph. I fought to keep the motorhome in my lane most of the way and was wore out once we arrived.
Reading the other forum posts, it seems like front & rear trac bars are the call and maybe sumo springs. Have any of you folks tried this fix with any success?
I am in the Houston, Tx. area and looking for some help.

David59,
I to had that same problem I added the safety t plus it helped but didn't take away the sway so I purchased the sumo springs and it help so much more still get a little sway but nothing like before .So I took my next door neighbor for a ride je bought them to because he loved the way mine drove after words. He also has a Georgetown hope this helps you don't need to add sway bars etc just safety t and sumo springs and you should be good to go.

[Peter M]

Originally Posted by Davidm59

I called Ford this morning to ask about which frame that I have. I have a 24,000 lb. frame. I got the CHF completed yesterday, but haven't gotten to take it for a test drive yet.

David I have an extra set of Sumo Springs for the 24K Chassis front and rear.
PM me if interested. For sale at a very reasonable price.

[dstone7273]

Cheap handling fix

[Peter M]

Originally Posted by marjoa

We FT and travel 24/7/365 and our chassis is 22K, 228" wheelbase, 22.5" tires, 35.3' long, fully loaded with gear and clothes, 2 bikes and rack, 1/3 tank of water and full tank of gas we weigh in at around 21,200 GVWR and we tow our toad 4 down. These chassis specs, along with all the chassis mod's we made to our coach that you can see listed in our signature, we did before we started traveling. All of these mod's—performing together—make our coach solid, stays in her own lane, doesn't get pushed around and is a dream to drive. I usually run around 62-65mph and usually get anywhere from 7.0-7.5mpg depending on terrain.

With that being said, when you have strong cross winds it's going to move you around some. Just watch the 18 wheelers in front of you. It's a box moving at near hurricane force speeds. It's just the way it is, but these mod's will CERTAINLY make it whole lot easier to handle, more stable and easier to drive. If it's really windy like 20, 25 or more, we juts change our reservations and stay put till better weather conditions. It's just not worth it driving in dangerous or risky conditions.

Since it appears you're fairly new to all this stuff, get on the web NOW and start collecting every document and manual you can find about your coach. Chassis specs, plumbing, wiring and lube diagrams, sealant call out sheets, maintenance PM items and so forth. There are reams of stuff about your coach you should have at your finger tips at all times. Start gathering it now, so you'll have it when you need it and avoid going into panic mode when you don't have it and really, really need it.

Lastly, since you installed a Safe-T-Plus you might want to watch this video I did. I think you'll find it very helpful.

God luck my friend.

Martin thanks for taking the time producing this informative video...
Thanks for the safe-T plus adjustment tip. I made the same 2 mistakes when performing the adjustment. Driving in the center of the road and loosening the bracket.

[Davidm59]

Peter,
Thanks for the offer on the sumo springs, but I need to drive the motorhome some to see how the CHF did. From reading on here, the CHF and a rear trac bar did the fix for most of the folks.
Why did you decide to also include the set of sumo springs?

David

[Peter M]

Originally Posted by Davidm59

Peter,
Thanks for the offer on the sumo springs, but I need to drive the motorhome some to see how the CHF did. From reading on here, the CHF and a rear trac bar did the fix for most of the folks.
Why did you decide to also include the set of sumo springs?

David

When I purchased my coach SS was an option I wanted due to the benefits noted.
The benefits of sumo springs REDUCE lateral instability and harsh suspension bottoming.
SS also assist the leaf springs reducing compression of the leaf spring in the initial suspension travel (elevating ride height). This reduction in compression allows the suspension to become less harsh on road imperfections.

[jharrell]

Originally Posted by Peter M

SS also assist the leaf springs reducing compression of the leaf spring in the initial suspension travel (elevating ride height). This reduction in compression allows the suspension to become less harsh on road imperfections.

This is the part that doesn't make sense. Reducing compression denotes increased spring rate, which makes sense since Sumo are a helper spring, but reduction in compression means less travel which increases harshness.

This is just a fancy way of saying stiffer springs. Which again is a helpers springs purpose. If Sumo's increase ride height that means they are adding spring rate as the ride height is determined by the springs force resisting the weight on the axle.

The F53 stock leafs are linear rate so they resist the same amount at all ride heights, so even if the Sumo are progressive the stock leafs will still contribute the same resistance per inch of travel then the Sumo will add their resistance. There will never be a situation where the suspension is softer than it was before the Sumos, it will be Stiffer at all points in the travel leading to an increase in suspension frequency which should be felt as more harshness while also reducing sway.

You cannot both reduce sway and soften the suspension, these are at odds with each other. Sway bars stiffen the suspension but do not engage if both sides of the axle move together, this minimizes the effect of the increased stiffness over bumps that hit both wheels evenly, its the best trade off next to active suspension which is why all cars use them and nobody does polyurethane helpers for that purpose.

[Peter M]

Originally Posted by jharrell

This is the part that doesn't make sense. Reducing compression denotes increased spring rate, which makes sense since Sumo are a helper spring, but reduction in compression means less travel which increases harshness.

Sorry you are not following me. Reducing compression with SS effectively increases ride height thus reducing SAG and increasing available suspension TRAVEL. Compression or decreased ride height AKA suspension SAG drops the suspension into an increased leaf spring rate. Therefore a greater force or impact is required to compress the suspension yielding a harsh ride.

This is just a fancy way of saying stiffer springs. Which again is a helpers spring purpose. If Sumo's increase ride height that means they are adding spring rate as the ride height is determined by the springs force resisting the weight on the axle......

True with Axial compressive forces when the suspension is compressed. Conversely side to side lean aka sway is controlled by both sides of the axel with SS. The side of compression has less lean due to the increased spring rate of the SS. The opposite side resists TOPPING out the suspension of reducing lean

[jharrell]

Originally Posted by Peter M

Sorry you are not following me. Reducing compression with SS effectively increases ride height thus reducing SAG and increasing available suspension TRAVEL. Compression or decreased ride height AKA suspension SAG drops the suspension into an increased leaf spring rate. Therefore a greater force or impact is required to compress the suspension yielding a harsh ride.

Linear/Constant rate springs do not change spring rate as they compress, you must be thinking of progressive springs.

Lets take the front axle of my MH for example, it has 550 lbs/in constant rate parabolic springs. Therefore it rides about 6" from the frame (which I have measured) since I have a little over 6000lbs on them (550 x 6 = 3300lbs X 2 = 6600lbs). If add Sumos that increase ride height 1" to 7" that means the springs are still resisting 6600 lbs just higher and the load is now split between leafs and Sumos. The total springs rate has increased and therefore compression has decreased as the spring are deflecting less inches under the same load.

You have now increased possible up travel true, but to compress the suspension 1" on a side now requires the same 550lbs from the stock leaf since they are constant AND whatever spring rate Sumo are adding. Therefore a bump that used to compress the suspension 1" because it imparted 550lbs of force will now compress it less as it takes more force to do so, therefore actual travel is reduced under the same conditions and harshness is increased.

If I put stiffer springs on a vehicle ride height will be increased and so will up travel at the expense of down travel, it will also ride harsher. To raise ride height for more up travel (and down travel) while making it softer requires longer softer springs, not stiffer ones.

Originally Posted by Peter M

True with Axial compressive forces when the suspension is compressed. Conversely side to side lean aka sway is controlled by both sides of the axel with SS. The side of compression has less lean due to the increased spring rate of the SS. The opposite side resists TOPPING out the suspension of reducing lean

Only true with some Sumos, the ones they seems to be selling for the front now are two piece and will not stretch to resist:

[cobia]

I just done the chf today and after a test drive its like a different rv, could not believe I didn't do this 2 years ago when I saw the post about it. If you have not done this you need to. Took about 20 min. Look on you tube on how to do it. Real simple.