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Old 04-19-2019, 04:52 PM   #1
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2017 F53 Sway Control

I know this question has been asked before, but couldn't find an answer in the forum replies. I have a Georgetown Xl, 38' feet long with about 12,000 miles. I have installed the Safety Plus stabilizer, but need more help. Recently we took a 200 mile trip and we bucked the east wind all the way, wind gusting up to 15mph. I fought to keep the motorhome in my lane most of the way and was wore out once we arrived.
Reading the other forum posts, it seems like front & rear trac bars are the call and maybe sumo springs. Have any of you folks tried this fix with any success?
I am in the Houston, Tx. area and looking for some help.
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:41 PM   #2
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Do the CHF, Cheap Handling Fix.

Search it out on this forum, there's a good chance it will handle much better.
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:50 PM   #3
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Go to the top of this forum and read the "Cheap Handling Fix." If you don't understand what to do after reading a dozen post look on YouTube for a visual. Still have questions then post to that forum.

Confirm your tire pressure is correct for weight. If you can't get a weight, start with what the placard says on your MH. Try to get a weight and adjust to your tire manufacture inflation chart, not the sidewall marking unless you are at maximum weight.

Then you can start throwing money at the fix.
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:51 PM   #4
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and add a rear trac bar. Everything after these two fixes will only result in incremental, not substantial improvements.
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Old 04-19-2019, 09:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidm59 View Post
I know this question has been asked before, but couldn't find an answer in the forum replies. I have a Georgetown Xl, 38' feet long with about 12,000 miles. I have installed the Safety Plus stabilizer, but need more help. Recently we took a 200 mile trip and we bucked the east wind all the way, wind gusting up to 15mph. I fought to keep the motorhome in my lane most of the way and was wore out once we arrived.

Reading the other forum posts, it seems like front & rear trac bars are the call and maybe sumo springs. Have any of you folks tried this fix with any success?

I am in the Houston, Tx. area and looking for some help.


I have a 2017 BayStar with 14,000 miles so far. When I bought it, I immediately did the same things that I did to my last gasser; Rear track bar, steering stabilizer, Koni shocks. Then I did the CHF ( purchased welded adjustable plates from TJ.. not Tranquill Jim) The 5 star tune and sound deadening under the dog house and for a gasser, a MUCH improved ride and drive.
As suggested, read the thread on CHF, most people love it.
Good luck with your coach......
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Old 04-20-2019, 05:25 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RRR View Post
Go to the top of this forum and read the "Cheap Handling Fix." If you don't understand what to do after reading a dozen post look on YouTube for a visual. Still have questions then post to that forum.

Confirm your tire pressure is correct for weight. If you can't get a weight, start with what the placard says on your MH. Try to get a weight and adjust to your tire manufacture inflation chart, not the sidewall marking unless you are at maximum weight.

Then you can start throwing money at the fix.
Sound advice. Do the low or no cost checks first before spend money on aftermarket bolt on stuff. Also give Ford a call and have your VIN handy. They might do an alignment at no cost as a warranty item.

Many years ago I did the CHF. Sway control was the primary effect but wind push and the associated straight line stability was a secondary improvement. Fast forward a couple of years I added a rear track bar (Ford installed the front). I now get surprised by trucks suddenly appear out my left window. There's still some push with weather but I can feel the push coming.

As a side note I did add airbags between the CHF and the track bar installs. Helped to regain ride height with heavy load and limit suspension bottoming out but sway and push control was minimal.
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Old 04-20-2019, 05:37 AM   #7
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What chassis do you have? If it is not on the 24/26K chassis then 38 feet is going to be a challange due to the length behind the rear wheels. I'm very happy with the handling and only added the safe-t-plus to help with a blow out.
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Old 04-20-2019, 06:18 AM   #8
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Davem59,

Here's a list of all the MODS in order of cost. You should check the ride and handling following each change to determine if and how much it helped. Try to access a percentage amount to each change like 5% or 15%.

1. Tire pressures set to what the inside sticker states. Good place to start. (FREE)

2. Have the alignment checked. Ask for a before list of current alignment angles: Caster, camber and toe. Caster should be close to the max set by Ford (5.5 degrees). The more positive the caster the more front end weight pressing down forcing the wheels to track straight. Toe-in 1/8" to 1/16" which is split 1/2 for each side. Camber is somewhat fixed since it is the manufactured straight front axle that sets it. Ford should make it correctly but they can be changed but since it is bent cold most won't attempt it. (Usually about $150 to $250)

Most RV manufacturers say they do align the RV after it is built. We took our new RV in (700 miles) and all angles were off. So much for factory alignment. It's a small amount to pay based on the cost of tires.

3. CHF front and rear. This MOD has done more to help more owners than any other single MOD. (FREE)

4. Steer safe, Safety Plus or similar front blow out protection. The installed springs assist with keeping the front wheels tracking straight. ($400)

5. Rear track bar (TB). Can in many cases make a dramatic improvement in semi wind push as well as side wind gusts. In most all cases a good to great improvement. (DIY TB about $50) (Commercial TB $400)

After the above 5 adjustments or MODS you should notice good to great changes in sway, ride and handling. Even if you paid top dollar you are still not out much more than $1,000.

Do recognize that every RV will respond differently to each MOD or adjustment. There are just way to many variables to assure that every MOD will respond the same.

The next set of MODS will cost you more but they are available and will help to some degree.

7. Better quality shocks. Koni shocks seem to have the best overall results but they will cost you ($700+). They have something called FSD technology. Basically they will respond to bumps at different frequencies and dampen more or less based on how rapid the bumps occur. Many of us have wondered why some company doesn't make an adjustable shock or at least a better one than what we have available.

8. Steering stabilizer. This will cost you about ($400). We bought the RSSA steering shock with a large red spring by Road Master. This helped a lot with steering wheel dampening and steering wheel centering. The heavy spring compresses and
stretches as the wheel is turned. For us this was a good investment.

9. Sumo Springs. For me this is a mixed bag. They are basically a synthetic rubber/plastic compression spring. They will assist in SWAY control because if the RV wants to sway the Sumo's resist the compression. They can be costly in the range of ($400) or more front and the same for the rear. There are several options available.

10. Air Bags. We just finished this install ($650). We used Air Lift bags with the internal jounce bumpers. To do this install you have to remove the front jounce bumpers and Sumo's if you installed those. It was recommended to get bags with internal ones.

In addition to a better ride you can adjust each corner so the RV is setting closer to level. This helps if your RV is older and stock springs are sagging or if you have a weak side.

Most do notice an improvement in the air bags absorbing some of the road harshness. You will not have a true air ride suspension system but if you read all the reports most do notice positive changes. We felt it was worth the cost.

Each of the above suggestions are covered very well here on the many different threads devoted to each specific MOD. You can search and study each MOD to assist you in making a more informed decision.

Enjoy the ride!!!!
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Old 04-20-2019, 05:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay View Post
Davem59,

Here's a list of all the MODS in order of cost. You should check the ride and handling following each change to determine if and how much it helped. Try to access a percentage amount to each change like 5% or 15%.

1. Tire pressures set to what the inside sticker states. Good place to start. (FREE)

2. Have the alignment checked. Ask for a before list of current alignment angles: Caster, camber and toe. Caster should be close to the max set by Ford (5.5 degrees). The more positive the caster the more front end weight pressing down forcing the wheels to track straight. Toe-in 1/8" to 1/16" which is split 1/2 for each side. Camber is somewhat fixed since it is the manufactured straight front axle that sets it. Ford should make it correctly but they can be changed but since it is bent cold most won't attempt it. (Usually about $150 to $250)

Most RV manufacturers say they do align the RV after it is built. We took our new RV in (700 miles) and all angles were off. So much for factory alignment. It's a small amount to pay based on the cost of tires.

3. CHF front and rear. This MOD has done more to help more owners than any other single MOD. (FREE)

4. Steer safe, Safety Plus or similar front blow out protection. The installed springs assist with keeping the front wheels tracking straight. ($400)

5. Rear track bar (TB). Can in many cases make a dramatic improvement in semi wind push as well as side wind gusts. In most all cases a good to great improvement. (DIY TB about $50) (Commercial TB $400)

After the above 5 adjustments or MODS you should notice good to great changes in sway, ride and handling. Even if you paid top dollar you are still not out much more than $1,000.

Do recognize that every RV will respond differently to each MOD or adjustment. There are just way to many variables to assure that every MOD will respond the same.

The next set of MODS will cost you more but they are available and will help to some degree.

7. Better quality shocks. Koni shocks seem to have the best overall results but they will cost you ($700+). They have something called FSD technology. Basically they will respond to bumps at different frequencies and dampen more or less based on how rapid the bumps occur. Many of us have wondered why some company doesn't make an adjustable shock or at least a better one than what we have available.

8. Steering stabilizer. This will cost you about ($400). We bought the RSSA steering shock with a large red spring by Road Master. This helped a lot with steering wheel dampening and steering wheel centering. The heavy spring compresses and
stretches as the wheel is turned. For us this was a good investment.

9. Sumo Springs. For me this is a mixed bag. They are basically a synthetic rubber/plastic compression spring. They will assist in SWAY control because if the RV wants to sway the Sumo's resist the compression. They can be costly in the range of ($400) or more front and the same for the rear. There are several options available.

10. Air Bags. We just finished this install ($650). We used Air Lift bags with the internal jounce bumpers. To do this install you have to remove the front jounce bumpers and Sumo's if you installed those. It was recommended to get bags with internal ones.

In addition to a better ride you can adjust each corner so the RV is setting closer to level. This helps if your RV is older and stock springs are sagging or if you have a weak side.

Most do notice an improvement in the air bags absorbing some of the road harshness. You will not have a true air ride suspension system but if you read all the reports most do notice positive changes. We felt it was worth the cost.

Each of the above suggestions are covered very well here on the many different threads devoted to each specific MOD. You can search and study each MOD to assist you in making a more informed decision.

Enjoy the ride!!!!
TeJay,
Thanks for the advice and all is appreciated. I have watched several videos showing the fix when done, but not actually seeing anyone doing the work,
I crawled under mine today to have a look. Question? When you loosen the bolt to remove it from the end of the sway bar, do you also loosen the bracket bolt? Seems like a long ways to move the bracket to the second hole. One video mentioned that he used a scissor jack? Any advice would be appreciated.

David
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Old 04-20-2019, 06:08 PM   #10
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David,

Remove the bolt and see if the links rotate. Usually on the front they will move. If not then just loosen the top link bolts.
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Old 04-22-2019, 04:44 AM   #11
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David: If/When you get to #7 on TJ's comprehensive and knowledgeable list, and feel like doubling that cost by adding Supersteer's double shock bolt kits for the front and rear of your coach along with Koni FSD's(important). It was my favorite mod to my coach, the F-53, really likes dual shocks at each wheel, low speed roll out of driveways and curves is tremendous as well as highway winds. So much so I never did CHF or aftermarket sway bars! This is just my own experience, I am not saying everyone should do it, but the product is out there, and I've tried it and though quite expensive in my case I liked the result.
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Old 04-22-2019, 05:17 AM   #12
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2017 F53 Sway Control

Iíve gone through most of TeJays list (items 1-8), and each step helped. Rather than Sumo springs, I installed aftermarket sway bars for more sway control than the CHF provides.

These changes can affect your fuel mileage. Adding the rear track bar alone added 5 mph to my comfortable towing speed.

You should already have a front track bar installed by Ford, but the rear track bar will be an improvement.

I didnít notice this item in this thread, but make sure your rear sway bar brackets are still installed and that those bolts are tight. See this thread: ATTENTION !!!! Ford F-53 Owners READ!!
ATTENTION !!!! Ford F-53 Owners READ!!
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Old 04-22-2019, 05:27 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STORMY 1 View Post
I have a 2017 BayStar with 14,000 miles so far. When I bought it, I immediately did the same things that I did to my last gasser; Rear track bar, steering stabilizer, Koni shocks. Then I did the CHF ( purchased welded adjustable plates from TJ.. not Tranquill Jim) The 5 star tune and sound deadening under the dog house and for a gasser, a MUCH improved ride and drive.
As suggested, read the thread on CHF, most people love it.
Good luck with your coach......
Where did you purchase the welded adjustable plates from? TJ?
Tried to relocate to the second hole on front sway bar today. There was no way that it was going to reach the second hole
Adjustable plates sounds like what I need
Thanks for the help..
David
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Old 04-22-2019, 05:35 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidm59 View Post
Where did you purchase the welded adjustable plates from? TJ?
Tried to relocate to the second hole on front sway bar today. There was no way that it was going to reach the second hole
Adjustable plates sounds like what I need
Thanks for the help..
David
The plates should not make it any easier, if you can't do the normal CHF something else is wrong.
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