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Allentc2 · 09-22-2019, 06:14 AM

I purchased an RSSA and RBK25 mounting kit to put a steering stabilizer on my 2019 Bay Star. I followed the directions, and it came out like this.....

Did Ford change anything in 2019? Are the instructions wonky?I thought I'd seen some videos where they installed the mounting bracket on the passenger side.

I'm calling Roadmaster tomorrow, just thought I'd see if anyone else ran into this.

TeJay · 09-22-2019, 07:56 PM

These are pics of my RSSA install. I can't see much from your pics.

Allentc2 · 09-23-2019, 03:09 AM

LOL I can't tell much from yours either.

My pic is looking up at the big mount plate under the leaf springs. Where the non-spring end of the stabilizer goes. Bottom of the pic is towards the front end of the coach. The two nuts are on the U-bolt.

See that kinda curved cut-out? The mount is more squared off and doesn't fit flush against coach.

Allentc2 · 09-23-2019, 07:19 AM

Ooops.....where the SPRING end goes. LOL The chassis bracket.

Allentc2 · 09-23-2019, 04:00 PM

Here's a better picture of what's going on. Not sure of what the technical term is for this, but this "inset" in the axle is not letting the chassis bracket sit flat.

Here's the bracket (admittedly, held in place by hand LOL)

Roadmaster was pretty surprised by this. The tech support guy said he took my photos to his manager, who thought they were from a case HE was working on. So whatever is up with my weirdo axle, I'm not alone. LOL Apparently the case the manager was working also came in today.

In the meantime, the tech suggested I put washers on the u-bolt between the axle and the bracket, to level it out some.

TeJay · 09-23-2019, 06:08 PM

The axle is a casting which uses many radius's which are there to provide strength.

It looks to be a simple issue. The plate is wider than the place it is supposed to set flat against. The back side or corner of the plate is setting on a radius. If the plate were maybe an 1/8" to 3/16" narrower it would fit flat. Or you can grind a 45 degree angle on the top corner of the plate and it might fit flatter. Or just grind metal away until it does fit flat. I'd for sure not add washers. That's a dumb way to fix a simple problem.

Allentc2 · 09-23-2019, 06:25 PM

Simple if you have a grinder. LOL This was supposed to be a plug n' play product.

TeJay · 09-24-2019, 07:05 AM

Allentc2,

This can be an issue when the device is sold as a "Plug and Play" item. Send it back and they'll fix it. I was offering a DIY plan. Fix it yourself and be done with it. I'm in the DIY category and don't want to wait for something that might take 5 minutes of grinding. If you don't have the tools I'm sure a handy neighbor could do it for you for nothing.

I have 3 small (maybe $20 each) flapper grinders and use them to sharpen my mower blades as well as dozens of other things on a weekly basis.

Allentc2 · 09-24-2019, 10:54 AM

So with the grinding/cutting it down to fit.....that'd turn that elongated hole into a slot, with a tab. One of my more mechanically inclined friends said he thought that'd put stress on the tab and it could pull out.

TeJay · 09-24-2019, 11:07 AM

Again it's really difficult to see exactly how and where to grind. I again looked at your first pic. If the area you are going to grind is on the right side then it depends on how much you grind off. If the area gets to thin add washers to spread out the pressures essentially restoring the plate thickness.

Even if it puts stress on a tab the tab is reinforced by adding some washers. You can also grind the edge of a flat washer so it stays flat and does not hit a ridge of metal under the washer.

Show a pic under the edge that has to be ground and we can more easily advise. Even if you are down to a tab instead of a complete elongated hole you still have the opposite side with another completed elongated hole. I'd add some hardened washers to that as well.

Washers are used or designed to spread any applied bolt/nut pressure to the surrounding area. Greater distribution of that pressure provides greater holding or staying power. Make sure you torque all bolts and add some blue lock tight to all bolted connections.

Allentc2 · 09-24-2019, 06:01 PM

Here's the entire kit. You can see the bracket has one elongated hole. What I'd be grinding is that corner with the long hole.

Allentc2 · 09-24-2019, 06:04 PM

The more I think about it, the less I like the idea of doing anything at all to it. Seems like I'd be accepting liability if anything did go wrong. Get a refund or exchange my current bracket for whatever they come up with.

Earl II · 09-24-2019, 06:11 PM

You are accepting liability doing the job yourself in the first place. If it is a sound install job, I don't know what you would be worried about liability wise. I agree with the comment about washers as a fix and I would not mickey mouse the install with that stupid suggestion.

TeJay · 09-25-2019, 06:47 AM

I understand your reluctance to grind it down making the side smaller thinking it won't hold as well. I've been building things like this for years and it will hold securely.

If you don't like the idea of washers go to any box store and they have small selections of metal flat, round, angle iron etc of different thicknesses. Buy a short length of 1/8" or 3/16" thick maybe 1-1/2" or 2" wide material. Looking at your post #1 measure from the edge you are going to grind towards the other bolt hole and stop short of the slot cut into the plate.

This metal can't be to thick because your nut won't come through the added plate with enough threads to hold as well. From the pic it looks there are washers under both nuts. Don't use any washers under that nut.

Now you'll have a rectangular metal plate/washer covering the entire corner of the plate you are going to grind. Drill a hole for the bolt and do the install. I'd add RED lock tight.

In reality that will hold more securely than if you had never had this issue to begin with.

If you rally wanted to make it overkill secure remove both bolts and buy two new bolt 1/2" longer than the stock ones. Make sure they are of the same grade or bolt class.

Instead of just making a short plate to go over what you have buy metal that is 1/4" or 3/8" thick and 2" wide. Cut it's length to match the stock width of the plate. Drill your two holes through your new 3/8" thick plate. If any metal is sticking through the stock plate you can grind it down which won't hurt it any. Or you can just torque the two nuts/bolts and the plate will bend so everything will fit flat. The pressure applied by the back side of the new plate will provide enough holding pressure to secure everything.

That idea IMHO should remove any concerns you might have.