Community Forums

fuzzie1 · 08-29-2017, 01:37 PM

Does oil sending unit have plug on side two wire then 1 on top? Mine went out two wire switch intermittent! If no oil pressure fuel pump not run ! Tied two wires together works still wire on top goes to oil pressure on dash

fuzzie1 · 08-29-2017, 01:40 PM

When cranking voltage to pumps come from starter solenoid! Get oil pressure then gets voltage from relays and module!

cobra 1 · 08-29-2017, 10:25 PM

I just thought of something else for you to check.
Check the fuse block under the dash for corrosion, remove and check all fuses and
fuse contacts. Unbolt the fuse block and check the back of it were the wires are attached for corrosion.

I have read that other rv owners have had this problem in there 83-84 E350 rv`s.
The corrosion in the fuse block caused the blinkers not to work on one rv, and it could be the cause of your intermittent problem ?.

cobra 1 · 08-31-2017, 10:09 PM

Any updates on the problem ?.

jghpe · 09-01-2017, 06:52 AM

Thank you for asking!!
Mechanic hasn't been here, but he spoke w/ a Ford dealer & the dealer said it's in the distributor ("D"). Ford has a problem w/ the module (in D) when there's a short.
Replacing D this w/e ... more info to follow. Current module in D has 2 anchor screw holes .... but D has only 1 anchor screw hole [going out on a limb, not original, ?].

cobra 1 · 09-01-2017, 09:17 PM

I am very interested in what you find with the distributor, this is something that I would want to check on my rv as well.

The previous owners of my rv did not take care of it at all, or when ever they tried, it was less than a half way attempt to fix something.

I have been making a lot of repairs (the correct way) since I bought it.

cobra 1 · 09-02-2017, 02:05 AM

I did some more searching, and the module in the distributor is the pickup coil.
If it goes bad it can cause hard starting problems or cranking and no start problems

I looked at the picture of your cobra in the registry, and its very nice.
My 84 cobra has had a hard life from lack of previous owner care or maintenance.
I have had to repair major water damage in the over cab bed area, as well as repair or rebuild other interior areas.

Once I get it done it will be better than it ever was.

**JohnRR** · 09-02-2017, 03:31 AM

The ford ignition control modules of that era were well noted for over heating and shutting down then allowing for a restart when they cooled off.

This style module

twinboat · 09-02-2017, 06:07 AM

The reason it kicks back when the ignition comes alive, after the noise, is that while cranking you sucked the gas/air mixture into the cylinder. The ignition is firing the coil and sending spark to one plug. That cylinder is probably just before top dead center and the fuel burn pushs the piston back down. Not a big deal.

If you have an external voltage regulator, the noise you hear may be the voltage regulator relay closing when power on the " I " terminal comes on. It may also be sending power to the ignition controller at the same time.

That's an easy test. See if it has power when you turn the key on. If not, start grabbing wires and connectors and twisting them. You may find one with some corrosion on it. The firewall connector would be my first place to look.

House Husband · 09-02-2017, 06:26 PM

Look at all the connectors, under the hood, for the ignition system. If there are flat spade connectors in the plug, they may be your problem. Unplug the connectors and give each flat spade a little twist, so they wedge into the female end. I know this was a ford problem in the late 70s. Not sure if it carried into the 80s.

Richard

cobra 1 · 09-17-2017, 12:42 AM

Any updates or solutions to this problem ?.

jghpe · 09-18-2017, 06:49 AM

Good morning ..... update = nothing to update
Thank you for the interest.
Took a breather for a week ... I'd been obsessing over the problem & depressed over the lost summer.
Having nothing but schedule conflicts w/ my mechanic. He just texted to say he's coming by tomorrow afternoon & I am his priority.
Hopefully tomorrow afternoon I'll have reason to celebrate .....

Aside: To "Cobra 1", I'm very interested in knowing what you have done to your cobra [any upgrades, modifications]. After this mess is behind me ....

cobra 1 · 09-19-2017, 10:43 PM

Aside: To "Cobra 1", I'm very interested in knowing what you have done to your cobra [any upgrades, modifications]. After this mess is behind me ....[/QUOTE]

I sent you a personal message, I didn`t want to interrupt this thread.

TeJay · 09-20-2017, 06:39 AM

I've read this entire post and early on when it just wouldn't start you didn't tell us exactly what that meant.

Not starting can mean two things: It CRANKS but won't start, or it just won't CRANK!!. Very, very big difference in diagnostic paths.

In your later posts you did clarify that it would CRANK but still not start!! Thanks!!

However I do not recall if anybody ever clarified this which is VERY important. While cranking every combustion engine needs three things before it will start: Fuel, Spark & compression. Since it will sometimes start I'm 100% sure that compression is not an issue.

I can't tell you the number of times I'd check on a students vehicle that wouldn't start. It would crank, had fuel and spark. Hours would go by and not once did they think that the timing chain just might have slipped a few teeth and the compression was gone or very low. We don't see that much these days with timing chain and belts along with automatic tensioning pulleys but it is still necessary before an engine will run.

Which of the other two are you missing when it cranks and won't start: FUEL or SPARK??

Maybe you do know which is missing but nobody stated it that I recall. You did state that you were looking for bad grounds so maybe you are missing the spark.

One thing you can do is add a good woven ground strap between the block and the firewall. If a loose or corroded ground that you can't find is creating a high resistance connection the added ground will by-pass it and provide a return path for current. A ground is a ground new or old.

Twinboat is spot on as to why the engine went backwards. That's the only explanation that makes sense. An electrical connection is made and un-burned fuel is ignited on a compression stroke. That makes perfect sense.

I'll assume it is electrical or no spark. Grounds are just as important as the hot side of any circuit. Back in the early 80's as we got on-board with all the new computer stuff chassis grounds were still important. That just means that an electrical device like a voltage regulator, control module or solenoid required a good bolted connection to the chassis because the body of the device was using the chassis ground for current flow to make it back to the negative side of the battery.

As things became a bit more sophisticated the chassis ground was replaced by a real ground wire or connection within the circuit. Chassis or body grounds are still used these days but when it comes to the important electronic controls they don't want to rely on a chassis ground.

Also the manufacturers are providing schematics that show all the chassis grounds.

You could take some alligator clips and some 12 gauge wire and when it cranks and won't start install one at different locations to provide a ground path that you might realize you need and don't know it missing. Connect one side to the battery ground and just probe all over the engine and firewall attaching it to different electrical devices. Who know what you'll discover???

Another thing to try. When it won't start but cranks take a small brass hammer and gently tap stuff!! If you heard a noise and then it started maybe it's a stuck solenoid or relay or what ever. Maybe a tap and it will work.

I've used a heat gun to heat stuff up and made it fail. Just another trick to simulate what happens when a guy says it started fine and ran for 10 miles then just died. Electronic devices are subject to expansion and intermittent connections when things get hot.

You do have one of those unique issues that when it is solved you'll say "Why didn't I do that in the first place?"

I posted a new thread asking for help on our TOAD. I removed the fuse for the display so it wouldn't drain the battery while towing. We arrived, I installed the fuse and no display. I checked everything for two days. Nothing!!! After testing everything I could think of as a last resort I just Re-booted the battery (removed the negative battery cable) and the display came on. Learned another lesson!!

Do let us know what you finally discover!!!