94-95 F53 radiator replacement

[digitalone]

Anyone here ever done this on there own? Mine is leaking and the passenger side lower rear corner has some ugly green gunky build up which I believe is the source of the leak. The replacement radiator is only $160 and I'm pretty handy but that thing is tucked way up in there.

Just wondering if anyone has any tips as I will be doing this soon.

Thanks,

[1skatingrin]

my 94 f53 has a drain valve on the bottom passenger side. This might be the source of your leak.It could be it is slighty loose .I can get my hand on it but for last bit of tighting i use pliers.If valve is not loose you might be able to unscrew it all the way out and clean it up replace o ring if it has one. good luck

[digitalone]

Thanks for the tip. I found the drain plug you mentioned in about 2 seconds now that I know it's there. I was also able to get about a 1/4 turn out of it. Unfortunately, after running the motor again the leak seemed worse and the when I checked it the drain plug was bone dry. The seam on the passenger side end tank however was wet all the way up.

Got a new radiator and it's going in Friday. New hoses too since the short bottom hose leaks where it connects to the engine. An oil change is happening on Friday as well and I should be ready for the first real shakedown test this weekend.

[subford]

I have not done it on the F53 but here is the way the book says to do it.

Radiator and Fan Shroud, F-150-250-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Motorhome Chassis with Gasoline Engine


Removal

1. Drain the cooling system by removing the radiator cap and opening the radiator drain cock located at the lower rear corner of the radiator tank. To prevent coolant loss when draining radiator, slip a hose on the radiator drain cock and drain coolant into a clean container.

2. Remove the rubber radiator overflow hose from the radiator coolant recovery reservoir and detach it from the radiator.

3. Remove the two upper attaching screws, lift the fan shroud out of the lower retainer clips and drape it on the fan. On F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis vehicles remove the two screws at the bottom of the fan shroud.

4. Loosen the upper and lower hose clamps at the radiator and remove the upper radiator hose and lower radiator hose from the radiator connectors.

5. Remove the heated water bypass hose (E4OD-equipped vehicles only) located directly below the overflow nipple on the radiator outlet tank.

6. Disconnect the two automatic transmission (if so equipped) oil cooling lines from radiator fittings.

7. Remove the two radiator upper attaching screws or bolts.

8. Tilt the radiator back approximately 25mm (one inch) and lift directly upward, clear of the radiator support bracket (8052) and fan blade.

9. If either upper radiator hose or lower radiator hose is to be replaced, loosen clamp at the engine end and slip the hose off the connection with a twisting motion.

10. Lift the fan shroud off the fan and remove from the vehicle.

11. Remove the radiator mounting insulators (8124).


Installation

1. Position the radiator mounting insulators to the lower frame.

2. Position fan shroud on fan until radiator is installed.

3. If either upper radiator hose or lower radiator hose has been replaced, install on engine with index arrow in line with mark on fitting on engine. Install double wire clamps and tighten to 3-4N-m (27-35 in-lb).

4. Install the heated water bypass hose (E4OD-equipped vehicles only) to the nipple located below the overflow tank.

5. Position radiator into engine compartment to radiator support, being careful to clear fan.

6. Inspect the radiator mounting insulators. Replace if necessary.



7. Install two upper attaching bolts or screws. Tighten to specifications.

8. Connect the two automatic transmission (if so equipped) oil cooling lines to radiator connectors and tighten tube nuts to 16-24 N-m (12-18 ft-lb) or clamps to 4-5 N-m (35-44 in-lb).

9. Attach upper radiator hose and lower radiator hose to radiator. Position hose on radiator connection so that index arrow on hose is in line with mark on connection. Install double wire clamps and tighten to 3-4 N-m (27-35 in-lb).

10. Position fan shroud on the lower retainer clips and attach the top of the fan shroud to radiator with two screw and washer assemblies. On F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis vehicles install the two lower screws. Tighten screws to 6-8 N-m (53-71 in-lb).

11. Attach rubber radiator overflow hose from radiator coolant recovery reservoir to radiator.

WARNING:
DO NOT STAND IN LINE WITH OR NEAR RADIATOR FAN BLADE WHEN ENGINE IS RUNNING.

NOTE:
A 50/50 mixture of coolant concentrate and water is recommended to maintain best overall performance. To avoid damaging the radiator or engine, the coolant concentrate should not exceed 60 percent.

12. Install new 50/50 mixture of water and Premium Cooling System Fluid E2FZ-19549-AA or equivalent and operate the engine for 15 minutes. Check the coolant level and bring it up to within 38mm (1-1/2 inches) of the radiator filler neck.




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[digitalone]

Thanks for the info subford. Unfortunately the radiator project is turning into a stop leak patch job for now. The radiator I got is wrong and the correct one is $400 or better dollars and several days away. So it's on hold I'm moving into an RV park 30 minutes from where I'm at now so I should be fine for now. I'll bring this thread back to life once I get the radiator and get ready to do the job. Probably a few weeks.

[1skatingrin]

thanks for all the info subford and digitalone. my problem is thers doesn't seem to be any way the rad is comming out the top or front.my 94 bounder has a flat front with a small acess door about 12 inches high.from underneath there is a crossmember that appears to be bolted in.I think this could be the only way to remove the rad.

[subford]

I was thinking maybe the FORD instructions above was how to do it before the builder put the body on the F53.
I was hoping that someone had taken the radiator out and would let us know how it was done.

I know one way to take the engine out is through the bottom by removing the front axle. The other way is through the top and out the driver side window behind the driver or by removing the front cap.

[digitalone]

The Ford instructions will work on my southwind. I just have remove a lot of other stuff. AC condenser and such. I wouldn't want try to get it out the bottom.

[Topflite51]

Last summer I watched as a tech at the place I use replaced a rad in an 97 F53 chassis, he took it out the bottom. In looking at mine, there is no way it comes out the top, mine is also a 97 chassis.

[subford]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Topflite51 Last summer I watched as a tech at the place I use replaced a rad in an 97 F53 chassis, he took it out the bottom. In looking at mine, there is no way it comes out the top, mine is also a 97 chassis.

Did he use a pit?
Did he jack it up high?
Did he remove any cross parts of the frame?

Thanks

[Topflite51]

Quote:

Originally Posted by subford Did he use a pit? Did he jack it up high? Did he remove any cross parts of the frame? Thanks

No pit.
Had it jacked up about 18 to 24 inches it appeared.
Do not recall, can stop by next week and ask him.

[1skatingrin]

Digitalone looking at the picture that Subford sent there appears to be a upper rad hose on the engine passenger side.Did you check this out for possible leak running down pass side of rad?

[digitalone]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1skatingrin Digitalone looking at the picture that Subford sent there appears to be a upper rad hose on the engine passenger side.Did you check this out for possible leak running down pass side of rad?

I did, however the entire seam on the passenger side end tank is damp. Not really a leak from above so it doesn't seem to be coming from that hose. I put some stop leak in and the leak went away completely. I would think if it was the hose the stop leak wouldn't have corrected it so well. I'm still going to replace the radiator and hoses though before I venture away from my home base after I make sure that is actually the problem but it does look to be the problem. I drove it for 45+ minutes today to my new location and it didn't leak at all. It looks like the stop leak worked as a band aide for now.

[Topflite51]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Topflite51 No pit. Had it jacked up about 18 to 24 inches it appeared. Do not recall, can stop by next week and ask him.

There is a cross part to be removed at the bottom, one bolt at each end. He also said he has removed them from the top and from the bottom. The biggest problems from the top is the interference of some AC condensers and the design of the coach, as the hoses on some are too short to clear the condenser out of the way, necessitating the evac and recharge of AC.