Community Forums

Dwight · 08-14-2014, 11:21 AM

98FPA Ken in Nebraska
Thanks Ken for bringing the hose length problem to the attention of owners of the 7.5L 460 engine. My belts & hoses are over 19 years old. Dwight

Brockx · 08-14-2014, 12:17 PM

Got my hoses today!!

I know this is a hose thread but just for info the engine belts are 50 inch and 60 inch. The 60 inch is rarely shown as AC belt, some shorter length is often shown. The other belt is usually shown correctly. I shredded the 60 in the keys and had H getting the right one. I even told the mechanic he had to get a 60 and he still brought one back inches short.

Motorcraft JK6602 - Serpentine Belt | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Brockx · 08-15-2014, 08:40 AM

Assuming these are the correct hoses, here are some pictures of the hoses and original part numbers. Notice there are a total of 3 different part numbers on each hose and tags. Hope this helps take some of the mystery out of the correct hoses. These were bought off Amazon as the KM4969 and KM4941.

98FPA · 08-15-2014, 12:06 PM

Brock, great pics of the hoses. I'm 99.99% sure that these are correct because I held them up to my current hoses while underneath my MH. My hose KM-4941 has F5TZ-8260-G stamped on it which corresponds to the printed label on this hose. On hose KM-4969 the stamp is smudged (go figure) but my label shows F5TZ-8286-H. The date codes on my hoses are 01/17/10 and 01/20/12 respectively. Yours appear to be newer production date. Also you got a pretty good price on yours through Amazon.

PS: don't forget hose clamps too just in case?!!.

Also the v-belt you mentioned is correct - Motorcraft JK6-602 (longer belt). While my Ford local parts manager told me Gates K060505 is the other v-belt (shorter).

Can you imagine what kind of problem you would have at a parts store trying to solve this mystery. As you mentioned the Keys probably would not be a bad place to be stranded though.

Is it time for a cool one yet?

subford · 08-15-2014, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98FPA

Bill, I have some other need to know questions (oil cooler/oil filter adapter bracket) that I've got to ask when your ready for them. Not tonight though.

All 7.5L engines are equipped with an engine oil cooler. The engine oil cooler is block-mounted. The compact oil-to-water heat exchanger mounts directly to the left side of the engine, at the oil filter mounting pad.

Engine Oil Cooler

Removal

1. Drain the engine cooling system. Refer to «Section 03-03».

2. Raise the vehicle. Refer to «Section 00-02» in the Body, Chassis Manual.

3. Remove the oil bypass filter.

4. Disconnect the lower radiator hose (8286) from the engine oil cooler.

5. Loosen the hose clamp securing the engine oil cooler hose to the water pump (8501).

6. Remove the oil filter adapter mounting bolt (6894).

7. Disconnect the engine oil cooler hose at the water pump and remove the engine oil cooler.

8. Disconnect the engine oil cooler hose from the engine oil cooler.

9. If necessary, remove the oil filter mounting insert.

10. Clean the engine oil cooler with a commercially available, environmentally safe solvent and dry with compressed air.

11. Inspect the engine oil cooler for sludge deposits, housing cracks, bent hose connections or other visible damage. Replace the engine oil cooler if any damage is found.

Installation

1. If removed, install the oil filter mounting insert and tighten to 61-203 N-m (45-150 lb-ft).

2. Connect the engine oil cooler hose to the engine oil cooler and slide both hose clamps over the engine oil cooler hose.

3. Push the engine oil cooler hose onto the water pump inlet until bottomed against inlet ridge. Align arrow on engine oil cooler hose with notch on inlet ridge.

4. Install the engine oil cooler by piloting the adapter portion onto the oil filter mounting insert.

5. Install the oil filter adapter mounting bolt and tighten to 54-88 N-m (40-65 lb-ft).

6. Tighten both hose clamps securing the engine oil cooler hose to 1.6-2.8 N-m (14-24 lb-in).

7. Connect the lower radiator hose to the engine oil cooler and tighten the hose clamp to 3-4 N-m (27-35 lb-in).

8. Coat the oil bypass filter gasket on a new oil bypass filter with specified engine oil. Place the new oil bypass filter on the engine oil cooler and hand-tighten until the oil bypass filter gasket contacts the sealing surface, then tighten an additional one-half turn.

9. Lower the vehicle. Refer to «Section 00-02» in the Body, Chassis Manual.

10. Fill the crankcase with the proper grade and quantity of engine oil.

11. Fill and bleed the engine cooling system. Refer to «Section 03-03».

12. Operate the engine at fast idle and check for engine oil and coolant leaks. If leaks are evident, perform the necessary repairs to correct the leakage.
/

98FPA · 08-15-2014, 06:58 PM

Bill, as usual, I really appreciate you information. You've cleared up some of my mindset on this. I've been wiping off a bead of oil occasionally while I've been under the MH trying to figure out these radiator hoses and v-belts. The fluid is red colored so it must be coming from the power steering pump located in/near the oil cooler. I did try to tighten the return line to the pump so maybe I need to tweek it a little more??. I have not had to add any PS fluid since I've had this MH. Or perhaps you have other thoughts.

Mine son had a power steering oil cooler on his Trans Am so I thought just possibly it was an cooler for the power steering system. That too was a learning experience.

As always Bill, I really appreciate your thoughts, advice, and direction. Have a nice weekend.

Brockx · 09-06-2014, 06:33 PM

I think we missed a lower radiator hose, spotted mention of it in Bill's post (#47).

I think this is it, release the hounds!!!

Gates 21909 - Molded Coolant Hose | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Brockx · 11-07-2014, 01:12 PM

I sold my 1996 F53 and still have the spare belts and hoses, they are the correct pieces as above. PM me if interested. They are listed in the classified under Parts.

Brock

97Winne · 04-09-2021, 10:58 PM

I went thru this exact same hose parts problem for the F53 chassis and was too late to return the wrong parts to Rockauto. Did not want to spend $60 on the 2 correct Motorcraft hoses which I should have ordered in the first place if I had paid attention to the Rockauto pictures.

After a bit of research found molded Gates 20957 for the lower hose. It's maybe 1/4" too long but fits perfectly - picture attached. The inside wire spring from the old hose also fitted perfectly into the Gates 20957.

The upper hose is a Gates 25532 wire flex hose and is about 1/4" too short but still fits. At about $10 each I can now carry a spare.

Here are links to the Gates hose catalogs

http://www.hoseline.net/gates/2007/431-2010W_2008.pdf

https://assets.gates.com/content/dam...-guide_web.pdf

https://www.gates.com/content/dam/ga...ne-catalog.pdf

obd54 · 11-05-2021, 09:56 AM

98 coachman santara radiator removal 460 ford thru front or bottom are there any vidoes on this site ford chassis ?

subford · 11-05-2021, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by obd54

98 coachman santara radiator removal 460 ford thru front or bottom are there any vidoes on this site ford chassis ?

Do not know of any videos but here is how to do it.

Also some excerpts from this forum:

From RLS7201:

Be careful when looking for a radiator for your chassis. There are a lot of radiators marketed for your 95 F53. If the radiator has 1451 in the part number, it will NOT fit.
This radiator on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-motorh...dZwTy~&vxp=mtr will fit but it won't cool properly. It only has 15 fins per inch. Do not accept a radiator with less than 20 fins per inch, which is the fin count of your OEM radiator.
I made the mistake of purchasing a 15 fin per inch ebay radiator. It didn't cool my 95 F53 Bounder. My OEM radiator was copper/brass not aluminum. Look closely, yours is probable copper/brass with composite end tanks, not aluminum.
I took the end tanks off of both my radiators and soldered the brass end tanks, from the new radiator on to my old OEM radiator. No more gaskets and it now cools properly.
Good luck finding a radiator that fits and cools properly.
Also, your radiator will not drop out the bottom. It comes out the front, after you remove the AC condenser and move the power steering reservoir to the side. Have fun getting all the coolant lines and transmission lines off the radiator. Have band aids handy. GRIN There are 2 long bolts on the top front that hold the radiator and condenser in place. You will have to remove two bolts from the inside on the top of the fan shroud, which are a little hard to see.

Richard
===============================================
From ExHeloPilot:
The removal went way better than I expected. Power steering reservoir moved to the side and it's cooler removed and bungied in place to remove and to lower the trans cooler. Evacuated a/c and remover drier. 2 bolts on fan shroud and 2 on top that hold a/c and radiator and then every thing came out the front as RLS7201 said it would, thanx,RLS. New belts, hoses, thermostat, flush engine, new coolant, thanx to stuff happens for his advice, and all was going well until I decided to replace the A/C drier. The A/C lines are capped and everything to do with the radiator replacement is now done tested and working perfectly. After a lot of research on the drier I think I have one being sent to me from Johnnie's Radiator in Arkansas, I found then on this site and they were the only one who could cross reference the part number I gave them and send a picture to confirm what it looked like, should get it this Friday. Good luck to anyone else trying this, if you grew up playing with cars in the 60's and 70's it is doable when it not worth spending 2-3000 dollars on a rig that might be worth only 6-7000. Total cost of this for parts was 985 dollars.

/

House Husband · 11-08-2021, 05:26 PM

Bill, I'm honored that you would consider my ramblings worth reposting.
Again, thank you for all of your professional information on older F53 chassis.
Now is there any one that wants to hear what it takes to R&R an E4OD transmission, laying on my back in the driveway. Brrrrrrrr, it's getting cold in the KC area. GRIN..............

Richard