Community Forums

98FPA · 04-23-2014, 10:52 AM

I bought my MH last August and want to change the air filter. Looking at the process it appears to be quite a challenge, is there any way to make this task easier than it appears to be? My MH is a 98 Fleetwood Pace Arrow. Thanks for any tips or pointers.

Everyone have a nice day.

Ted Lambert · 04-23-2014, 11:30 AM

Unfortunately you just have to suffer through this.
As far as tips and pointers. Allow lots of time and work slow. Lots to disconnect and lots to connect.

subford · 04-23-2014, 01:13 PM

When you work around the air filter box always check the PCV hose when you are done to make sure it is on the bottom of the box.
The hose runs from the oil filler tube to the air box.

/

johnboy99 · 04-23-2014, 01:45 PM

I found it to easier to just pull out the box lay it on the driveway, change the filter and shove it in and bolt it down.
In fact with mine you didn't have room to pull the cover off the box to get to the filter

Johnboy99

House Husband · 04-23-2014, 02:39 PM

While you're in there bleeding, you might as well change the crank case vent filter. It's attached to the hose (item 3) that subford mentioned. You'll find the filter retainer clip where the hose attaches. I usually have the wife on standby with gauze and bandages. GRIN

Richard

olfart · 04-23-2014, 04:19 PM

The air intake on the 460 V8 has got to be the worst in the world. After fighting with the air filter box - too many times, I removed the air filter element and installed a 4 inch rain gutter flex hose from Home Depot in the front intake hose attachment. I then ran it to the pass side of the fire wall and installed a K&N type filter. You'll need to put some thought in supporting the flex hose and new filter.
If you ever install exhaust headers on the engine to get the air outta the engine - you'll need bigger air intake into the engine.

98FPA · 04-23-2014, 04:48 PM

Thanks guys! So if I remove both #2 (screws), loosen both hose clamps on #5 (air cleaner outlet tube), and remove #3 (crankcase hose from crankcase filter) should I then be able remove the entire air cleaner out the front by sliding out to the front? Probably most of the removal of screws, hose clamps, and PVC hose needs to be done from the doghouse area, is this correct?

Yeah I will replace the crankcase filter too while I'm there. Also apprciate the heads up on making sure the PVC hose is back on subford. Motorhome only has just over 25,000 miles but I still want to physically inspect the air filter.

Any flat rate time on this project subford?

Any other thoughts about a K-N air filter as a replacement air filter other than the above post. I believe K-N makes a direct replacement air filter to replace the Ford filter.

Lt46 · 04-24-2014, 08:37 AM

The air filter is a real PITA for access but the master cylinder rates right up there as well.

House Husband · 04-24-2014, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lt46

The air filter is a real PITA for access but the master cylinder rates right up there as well.

Just curious what you consider difficult?
96 and older chassis has the master cylinder on the left frame rail. 97 and later chassis has the master cylinder on the fire wall. Your 97 coach could have either chassis.

Richard

Lt46 · 04-24-2014, 02:01 PM

RLS,
My Master is on the fire wall but buried up high and nearly out of reach from the hood opening. I need to use a rubber bulb syringe with tubing attached to add fluid.

House Husband · 04-24-2014, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lt46

RLS,
My Master is on the fire wall but buried up high and nearly out of reach from the hood opening. I need to use a rubber bulb syringe with tubing attached to add fluid.

Ah!

Thank you. I have not had the pleasure of servicing the firewall mounted master cylinders, with confined hood openings.

Richard

eddieelk · 04-25-2014, 08:05 AM

Olfart, I like your suggestion to move the air cleaner using 4" hose. I wonder if you remove the air cleaner element from the current filter case, reseal it empty, and put the new 4" extension on the rectangular opening at the front of the current opening. Then run the new hose over to the K & M unit, or is this what you did? This would eliminate ever removing the current filter housing. You gotta just love this forum! Eddie Elk.

Ted Lambert · 04-25-2014, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RLS7201

Ah!

Thank you. I have not had the pleasure of servicing the firewall mounted master cylinders, with confined hood openings.

Richard

Why do you have to add fluid? Do you have a leak?

House Husband · 04-25-2014, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by narampa

Why do you have to add fluid? Do you have a leak?

No, I don't have a leak, but the brake fluid does need to be changed on a regularly scheduled basis. I was just curious why Lt46 found it difficult to add brake fluid to his 97 F53. My master cylinder is mounted on the frame and is not to difficult to service. I do help those, in my RV community, with their maintenance.

Richard