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Old 05-17-2018, 08:53 PM   #1
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99 super duty moog k8986 install with pics (Add + caster)

Hi all,

Been doing a lot of work on our new to us MH. New bilstien shocks, front and back helwig sway bars. Both of those seemed to help the dangerous feel but still have a dead spot in the steering where i can move the wheel back and forth several inches at highway speed without noticeable movement. The swaybars and shocks definitely helped with the 'push' from big rigs but it is still noticeable, I can even feel it on regular SUVs.

It is totally compounded by the fact that the steering feels so loose. A little push and you have to move the wheel 2.5 inches the other direction. Push gone and wheel has to go 2.5" the other direction to correct, if you get my drift.

Looking at this forum and google it seems like the best candidate to fix this is a proper alignment where positive castor is added.

A member here, Harvard, seems to have a huge amount of knowledge on this and he ended up putting adjustable camber/castor bushings in himself they made a huge difference. Specifically mentioned was a INGALLS 594 bushing. Well i couldn't find it anywhere but was able to find a MOOG K8986 was a direct fit and similar, these are only $20 each on amazon.

Im kind of stubborn about the alignment as the rig drives straight as an arrow, and the old tires i replaced from PO were 9 years old with 10k miles and were totally even as far as tread. I figured i would try replacing myself and see what happens. If its still bad i'll take it in.

Parts arrived
passenger side jacked up, wheel off. First pic is of the existing bushing on the passenger side and the new one. Anyone know these markings? F8UA-AA 0+.25
I think i can make sense of this, its 0 and .25 degrees but which is caster and camber.

Anyhow, i set the bushing to the letters MS according to the chart which for passenger should give +2.5 castor (max). According to the instructions the Top or first letter should point toward the slot in the bushing itself and the second or bottom letter should point towards the slot where the pinch bolt goes.

For the driver side the letters show MG so M points toward slot in bearing and S points to the slot where the pinch bolt goes. Basically mirroring the other side.

Original bushing on driver side marked E97A-CA+0-0
I figured since the original bushings appear to show +0-.25 and +0-0 that means they are pretty much 0 and i could take the adjustable bushings and adjust to 2.5 caster and 0 camber (max castor on the bushings) and not be more off than .25 from where it was before.

I then tightened each pinch bolt to 65ft pounds and put it all back together.


Did Mikey do good???
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Old 05-17-2018, 08:58 PM   #2
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I should also say that this was a very very easy project. 2 hours max unless the bushing is really frozen in there. The bushing came out easily (but not too easy). dumb moment by me was loosening pinch bolt and trying to pry out the bushing. Tried for 5 mins before realizing the pinch bolt UST BE REMOVED COMPLETELY or the bushing will not come out.

Only a few tools required;
Jack
breaker bar
screwdriver for prying out the bushing
7/8 socket for lug nuts
15mm for pinch bolt
torque wrench
1.5" wrench or crescent for adjusting bushing
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Old 05-17-2018, 09:02 PM   #3
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Keep in mind that these angle changes will also change toe in.
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Old 05-17-2018, 10:27 PM   #4
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Let a good alignment shop set caster and toe, you want negative toe, and 5 degrees of caster
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