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02-21-2012, 09:33 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 792
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Antifreeze
I'm on a trip in West Texas and my antifreeze bottle went dry. This is a 2011 V10 with 10000 miles. It took 2 gallons of antifreeze to get the bottle to the full line. There are no coolant leaks. The oil is clear with no water evidence. There is no white smoke coming out the exhaust. I'm leaning towards a head gasket problem which may only happen under heavy loads. I would appreciate any thoughts.
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2011 Itasca Suncruiser, Jeep Grand Cherokee toad
MSgt retired USAF 1988, AA retired 2005
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02-21-2012, 12:21 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toneumanns
I'm on a trip in West Texas and my antifreeze bottle went dry. This is a 2011 V10 with 10000 miles. It took 2 gallons of antifreeze to get the bottle to the full line. There are no coolant leaks. The oil is clear with no water evidence. There is no white smoke coming out the exhaust. I'm leaning towards a head gasket problem which may only happen under heavy loads. I would appreciate any thoughts.
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The most likely culprit is the lower radiator hose. Check for stains of dried antifreeze/water around the lower hose connection to the radiator. For several years Ford used spring loaded clamps rather than screw clamps. They have a tendency to leak over time when the engine is hot and the radiator is under pressure. Once everything cools off there are usually no obvious drips or puddles under the vehicle.
If you find a leak check all the clamps on all the hoses including the heater hoses to the Motoraid heater and the under floor coach heater.
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Hikerdogs
2013 Adventurer 32H
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02-21-2012, 04:54 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 792
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All the clamps are tight. No antifreeze residue. Will drive 300 miles tomorrow & recheck.
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2011 Itasca Suncruiser, Jeep Grand Cherokee toad
MSgt retired USAF 1988, AA retired 2005
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02-21-2012, 05:15 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Mid Atlantic Campers Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Locust Grove, Virginia
Posts: 345
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Radiator cap. Often neglected. The bottom seal may still hold pressure but the top seal leak can leak coolant, and is usually undetected. It is a yearly maintenance item often missed. The main symptom is low coolant reservoir level.
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Wayne, Diane, & Bentley (our 22 lb. alarm system) 02 Pace Arrow 37A-Workhorse, 01 Jeep Wrangler toad
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02-22-2012, 01:42 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner Retired Fire Service RVer's
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Cold Spring , Minnesota
Posts: 261
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Start the engine first thing in the morning and let it idle and watch closely under the engine and radiator for leaks that can occur as the cold cooling system pressure slowly builds as the engine temperature slowly increases to operating temperature.
You can check the radiator coolant recovery jug for the proper cold level of coolant before you start the engine and again immediately when you stop driving it should be higher up in the jug and by the next morning it should again be at the lower level. If this action of the coolant is correct, the radiator cap should be operating properly.
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03-03-2012, 09:20 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 792
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Well the leak finally showed its nasty head. It is coming from the hot water heat exchanger. Decided to bypass the engine heat portion of the hot water heater, which wasn't very efficient, and eliminate the leak.
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2011 Itasca Suncruiser, Jeep Grand Cherokee toad
MSgt retired USAF 1988, AA retired 2005
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03-03-2012, 09:28 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Buxton, North Dakota
Posts: 3,940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toneumanns
Well the leak finally showed its nasty head. It is coming from the hot water heat exchanger. Decided to bypass the engine heat portion of the hot water heater, which wasn't very efficient, and eliminate the leak.
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My Motoraid heat exchanger on the water heater is very efficient. I would have it fixed under warranty. That engine coolant also feeds the motoraid heater that heats the motor home while driving.
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2003 Winnebago Adventurer 38G F53/ V10 605 watts of Solar
1999 Winnebago Brave 35C F53V10 Handicap Equipped
1999 Jeep Cherokee, 1991 Jeep Wrangler Renegade and 2018 Chevrolet Equinox Diesel
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03-04-2012, 01:03 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Clovis, CA, USA
Posts: 13,138
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"It is coming from the hot water heat exchanger"
What's that? I'm assuming it's some way of heating the hot water you use in the RV and not something engine related?
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2004 Monaco La Palma 36DBD, W22, 8.1, 7.1 MPG
2000 LEXUS RX300 FWD 22MPG 4020 LBS
Criticism is easier than Craftsmanship
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03-04-2012, 08:09 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toneumanns
Well the leak finally showed its nasty head. It is coming from the hot water heat exchanger. Decided to bypass the engine heat portion of the hot water heater, which wasn't very efficient, and eliminate the leak.
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While that might be a good short term fix I would repair it for the lomg run. The motoraid portion of the water heater is also used to help cool the engine. You probably won't notice the difference until you have a long hard uphill pull towing something or drive for a few hours in 90*+ heat..
If it hasn't been very efficient I would bet there is an air lock in the system. Ours heats the water to the point that the gas or electric portion of the heater won't come on for several hours after we're set up for the evening.
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Hikerdogs
2013 Adventurer 32H
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