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Old 09-27-2014, 09:26 AM   #15
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Thanks for the update, please keep them coming. Where did you buy the DVD manual?

Chuck
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Old 09-28-2014, 05:53 AM   #16
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Here is the link to the Dana S-135 axle.
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/AXSM-8941.pdf
It says NOT to grease the bearings, but do a tilt to lube everything.

Here is the manual I got.
Ford Family 1997 2008 Service Repair Manual DVD for Win 7 8 | eBay

I had to get the 3 1-4" 8point socket to torque the spindle nuts.
I don't think I'll get the oil seal installation tool - I have another idea, and if it works I'll let you know.
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Old 09-28-2014, 10:33 AM   #17
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Thank you.

Chuck
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Old 10-02-2014, 08:57 AM   #18
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I'll finish up today. Bleeding/flushing the breaks is a real PAIN! Filling the res with a turkey baster, and not being able to see when it about to spill all over the place! Doing it by yourself makes it more of a challenge.

Road test, and etc will be Monday or Tuesday most likely.

Ellis, out.
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Old 10-02-2014, 10:14 PM   #19
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Ok I'm hanging in with bated breath lol
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Old 10-11-2014, 06:26 PM   #20
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Kind of forgot to give final update.
Test drive went well! Stops fine (with some pressure on pedal). Feels like I could lock them up if I had to (not saying it's possible).
Pain in the but filling the res, but with a mirror, turkey baster and flashlight I got the flushed/bled.

Time to use this bad boy!
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Old 10-12-2014, 10:11 PM   #21
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Ellis,
How did you like the manual on CD?

Chuck
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Old 10-14-2014, 08:55 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chboone View Post
Ellis,
How did you like the manual on CD?

Chuck
I was different - it loads it own operating system emulator. Once you get used to that, and stop trying to print from there it was fine. You just print to PDF, then drag it to you reg desktop. I think it's worth the $ to have it.

I would also keep the dana manual on file.
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Old 10-14-2014, 09:20 AM   #23
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Thanks again Ellis, for the cost it seems to be a good investment.

Chuck
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1999 35 ft. Dolphin 5350, F53, Banks System, 5 Stars Tune, Air Lift Air Bags, Koni Shocks, Blue OX TruCenter, TigerTrak track bars F&R, Roadmaster 1-3/4" rear auxiliary sway bar, 2004 F450 Lariat Pickup 6.0 Diesel Crew Cab DRW, 4X4, GVWR 15,000, Front GAWR 6,000, Rear GAWR 11,000, GCWR 26,000,1994 36ft Avion 5er, GVWR 13,700, 2,740 Pin Weight.
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Old 10-15-2014, 09:26 AM   #24
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And it's nice to print out a section, get it completely greasy, then toss in the recycle bin.
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Old 11-18-2014, 07:02 AM   #25
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Isn't that socket 6 point or 12 point Or is 8 point something special for this job
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Old 11-19-2014, 08:32 AM   #26
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Quote:
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Isn't that socket 6 point or 12 point Or is 8 point something special for this job
its an 8 point, I ordered it from O'Reileys auto parts.
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Old 11-20-2014, 06:41 AM   #27
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Under further review I found out it is indeed 8 point socket and they are available at most auto parts store-Thanks Rich
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Old 02-19-2015, 09:28 AM   #28
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Ford F53 1999

LESS THAN 1000$, LESS THAN 1000$ BRAKES

I did the rear and front brakes on my 1999 F53 for less than 1000$. This includes 4 calipers, 4 inner seals, 2 pairs pads, 4 drums in hat, oil and a 3-1/4 socket. Could be done for cheaper if you rebuild you old calipers by yourself. I change the oil. I did not change the MasterCylinder.

For the F53 1999, the rear Axle can differ depending on the month it was built. There is three kind of hub for this F53. Compare the bid pupkins you have between the two rear wheels with pictures on the internet to find out which one you have. I had the bigger one. I have the DANA S135 Dual Axle.

Here are the three kind of hub:
1 – Three-piece Dowel-type Lock Washer System. La noix extérieure suivi d’un washer et un autre écrou. (Le washer est rond et non pas denté)
2 – Three-pied Tang-type Lock Washer System. Le washer est denté comme un engrenage.
3 – Four piece Trang/Dowel-type Lock Washer System. La noix extérieure suivi d’un washer denté puis un non denté et un autre écrou.


Rear seals compatible for mine:
Ford p/n 5C3Z1S175GA, F81Z1S175AA
Motorcraft p/n BRS110
National Seal / Timken P/N 710454
Dana-Spicer 47860
On eBay search for these seals. Find 2 for 38$. Here is the search sentence:
(5C3Z1S175GA, F81Z1S175AA, BRS110, 710454, 47860, BRS-24, 34928,PT710454,710454,1476-49560, PT34928, BRS-110, WS710454, 68036471AA, 537193) (bearing, seal, wheel).
It was easier to break the rear old Inner seals. I was careful and did not break or scratch anything else.


The front seals are the same from 1999 to 2007. They are not the same model as the rear. The model is: 417.65018. On eBay it is 30$ for 2. Search for this sentence on eBay:
(f53,417.65018) seal (wheel, bearing, inner) –rear
I bought mine at my local auto-part store.
The seals you will buy could have a complete different shape. But it will fit. My new ones looked twice thicker but they did fit much better than the original. Be careful not to push them more than necessary. They seat on a line and if you don't look carefully you could try to go over this mark. Take your time once they are in place to look very carefully. The old seals went off easily with a big screwdriver and I did not break them. You use a soft hammer to put the new ones in place without any special tools. Ford ask us to change the seals each time we do this job so I changed them. But if you want to save money you could probably reuse them. But the ones in the Rear wheels can not be extracted in my opinion without breaking them.


Rear - Big socket 3-1/4 8 sides, 25$ in Canada. This socket is necessary to remove the rear hub assembly. The ratchet hole in this socket is 3/4 and not 1/2, so I bought a 1/2 to 3/4 ratchet adapter.
There is at least three models of 3-1/4 for the various F53 Axle. For my F53 I needed a 3-1/4 with 8 sides socket. I had bought the 6 sides since people were saying this was the one for the 1999 but it was not the good one. So before you buy, compare your axle pupkins with images on the internet or open you hub to verify.
To find this socket on eBay enter this sentense in the search:
(1909, 3-1/4) (socket, locknut)


The front disc, caliper and pads are the same part numbers for front and rear. I paid very cheap.

For the drum: Centric : 120.65069 or Raybestos 66761 or WAGNER BD125649 Drum in Hat Federated SB66761 or ACDELCO ADVANTAGE 18A956A or Bendix PRT5325.

On eBay, the drums are 105$. Search this sentence on eBay:
(120.65069,F450 1999,F53 1999,66761,BD125649,SB66761,18A956A,PRT5325,126.65 069SL,R92265,121.65069) (Disc, rotor) –pad
They are heavy so your local auto-part store has better prices.

The calipers in the front are front mounted and in the rear they are rear mounted but they are the same. I paid 111$ each or less.

I paid 54$ for each pad pairs.

I did not need any Jaw puller for the Front and rear.

At the rear, I use a short lenght of sewer pipe to hit the inner seal into place. I put a piece of wood on the pipe and I hit it with a big hammer.

WARNING 1 - REAR
You need to put a red liquid seal (come in tube at your auto-part store) on the anchor plate that has 9 bolts. Just seat the bolts and put back the tire on. You tight the 9 bolts only when the wheel with the tire is back on the ground.

WARNING 2 - REAR
Once you have finish the job, you should lower the F53 on the ground at straigt level. Then you raise on wheel very high and you wait for 1 minute or two so the oil come to this side of the wheel. Then you do the other wheel.

WARNING 3 - REAR
We do not have to put greace on the REAR seals because they rest in oil and the greace could block the oil from coming. For the front you have to put greace.

WARNING 4 - REAR
The big 3-1/4 nut is not tight. You put it in place. It is 20 lb-in. Check for your model. In fact you put it in place, you turn the wheel, then you backoff the nut, turn the wheel, tight it again very softly with zero end play. If I remember, on mine, when it was seated, I had to go back 3 click.

The whole job for the rear took me nearly three hours. It was stressful. I am a newbie. I was scared of many things. But it did work. I drove 4000km since then.

The front was much easier to do. it took me 1.5 hours. I put bearing greace on the front bearings.
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