Community Forums

HeapBigEngin · 04-04-2013, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rlyons

Ok, I changed out the thermostat and found a temp sender at Carquest so I switched it out also. This cleared the code so I will see when I pull out tomorrow if the cannon goes off. Crossing my fingers that this will solve the problem.

Very interesting. Pulling codes on these types of issues helps to take some of the mystery and guesswork out of it....but not all of the time! But it sounds like you are going the right way, for sure. Thanks for getting back to us....wish more folks that ask for help here would. Please keep us posted....thanks!!

fishfryer · 04-04-2013, 02:27 PM

Hello:
I had not your exact problem, but--initially it mine was a single occurrence--at random times and on the last trip to the east coast it happened, once, then again, and finally it occurred every time I came off the throttle. I mean it was loud and all the time I came off the throttle. After checking I discovered that there is a valve called, I think, the throttle air valve. It seems to introduce air into the system as the throttle shuts. Sits center on the top of the manifold, two bolts, $155.00 from the Ford dealer who had no problem getting one and knew what I wanted. Replaced it and all was good. More trouble to replace the exhaust/header gaskets!! Again, don't know if this is your problem, but mine started in a very similiar way. Took two about 5000 miles to develop.
Jerry H 1995 F53, 460 with Gibson headers.

rlyons · 04-04-2013, 06:16 PM

Thanks but I changed that valve already twice. First was an aftermarket and it went out at about 1200 miles, the second was a Ford valve and it is still working. I will for sure keep everyone posted as soon as I find out the results.

rlyons · 04-05-2013, 06:40 PM

Well either the thermostat or the temp sender stopped the bang. Drove all day today with no problems. Unfortunatly I still got 6 mpg

was hoping the exhaust and tune up would improve that a little. Of course we are taking the back roads so there is a lot of stop and go and hills. We are loaded to the max also and pulling the toad. Oh well driving a house so what can I expect.

rlyons · 04-07-2013, 07:37 AM

Just seems sometimes you just can't win.

Got the other problem fixed and now sitting in Natchez, MS with a ruined tire that I just bought last fall. Seems I ran over something that went through the tread but by the time I stopped and saw the tire was flat it was ruined. It was on the outside rear and I felt nothing. Now I have to try and locate another Bridgestone to match tomorrow.

Conquest102 · 04-07-2013, 10:28 AM

At least it was a easy diagnoses

teddyu · 04-07-2013, 04:11 PM

typically, if the thermostat is stuck open, the engine will not come up to temperature when idling. When driving the heat load is greater so the heat generation rate exceeds the heat removal rate so the temperature sensor satisfies the emmissions control system. Had a simiar experience years ago when I replaced the 192 degree thermostat with a 185 degree thermostat trying to cool the engine more. Didn't work worth a damn. Replaced with a new 192 and the unit ran perfectly. JM2¢...

subford · 04-08-2013, 07:36 AM

By the way the computer temperature sensor has nothing to do with the gauge on the dash.
The computer temperature sensor has two wires going to it and the gauge temperature sender has one push on wire.

The 116 code most of the time is from the engine not being warmed up before the codes are read.

rlyons · 04-08-2013, 08:43 AM

Well it warms up a lot quicker, the gauge reads higher when fully warmed up and it doesn't backfire so whatever I did fixed it anyway. Now for the radiator

. It started leaking at the tank seam last fall and I put in some stopleak to temp fix it, now it has started again. Not sure if I am going to tackle that one or have it done. Hopefully it will wait until fall when I am workcamping and can pull it down that long. Looks like a bear to change.

subford · 04-08-2013, 08:53 AM

Not to bad of a job if you have a pit to use as most take those out from the bottom and drop it down.
Or so I hear (read).

garykk · 04-08-2013, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rlyons

Well it warms up a lot quicker, the gauge reads higher when fully warmed up and it doesn't backfire so whatever I did fixed it anyway. Now for the radiator

. It started leaking at the tank seam last fall and I put in some stopleak to temp fix it, now it has started again. Not sure if I am going to tackle that one or have it done. Hopefully it will wait until fall when I am workcamping and can pull it down that long. Looks like a bear to change.

If its a seeping leak or close to it, auto parts stores sell an al purpose sealer that is like putty, you kneed it till it gets warm and put it on a clean surface....lots of folks swear by it..