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06-03-2011, 02:36 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 466
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Have a 1999 F-53, V-10 Thor Residency. Checked the cab A/C and felt it needed a shot of freon, went under the hood and found that it still had the sightglass on the dryer. Sure enough, there were a lot of bubbles, almost foam looking going through the sightglass. Even after adding 2 12oz cans of freon, it still looks foamy in the glass.
I know in the old days we added freon until the bubbles went away, is that the way to do it now? It has a huge condenser, so just how much freon can this thing hold. I still don't think it is blowing as cold as it should.
More freon or not?
Any help appreciated.
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1999 Residency 3790 Ford V-10, Banks Equipped, Tag Axle, Koni FSD
2012 Jeep Patriot on ACME EZE-TOW dolly
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06-03-2011, 07:29 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Easton, Ks
Posts: 482
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There should be a sticker someplace maybe in a kitchen cabinet that tells what all the items are that are installed on your RV.
If you can not find the sticker call your RV Mfg. and ask them what brand they put in the RV for the dash A/C and where the items sticker is.
This will give you the brand and model of the dash A/C that you have.
Go to the A/C Mfg. site and it should tell you how much gas goes in your A/C unit.
__________________
Bill
1994 COACHMEN Santara 350FL on a 1994 Ford F53
subford@gmail.com
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06-03-2011, 02:57 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 466
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Thanks for the ideas.
Will look for sticker, but RV mfg. went under 10 years ago.
Still wondering about using bubbles as a gauge to tell when system full.
Any A/C experts out there? 
__________________
1999 Residency 3790 Ford V-10, Banks Equipped, Tag Axle, Koni FSD
2012 Jeep Patriot on ACME EZE-TOW dolly
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06-03-2011, 03:30 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 453
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I'm no expert but I've done it your way until I bought guages at Harbor Freight.
Sometimes the system has to run several minutes at 1000 rpm or so for the bubbles to clear. 134 doesn't condense as well as R-12 did either so your condensor fan should be running and condensor clean when you're checking temps.
Thanks for your service 9th Inf., from the Americal.
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06-03-2011, 03:55 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Fort Pierce, FL
Posts: 21
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My a/c expert, who is really good, told me that if using 134a, it may be at perfect charge level but still making bubbles. No bubbles only worked with R12.
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06-03-2011, 04:30 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 466
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Thanks for the help, will not add any more freon now, will run it for a while and see what it does.
The bubble theory not working on 134a may explain why there was a black piece of paper stuck over the sightglass so you couldn't see the freon stream.
I took it off and thought I had outsmarted them............. "curses, foiled again". 
__________________
1999 Residency 3790 Ford V-10, Banks Equipped, Tag Axle, Koni FSD
2012 Jeep Patriot on ACME EZE-TOW dolly
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06-04-2011, 08:40 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Fernley,NV
Posts: 335
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You need a set of gauges if you are going to service your AC. Now, your AC could be overcharged and can be damaged. Actually, recommend a qualified AC specialist.
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David F
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06-04-2011, 01:14 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 466
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The hose I use has a gauge on it and it read in the middle of the "Filled" section on the gauge, nowhere near the "Overfilled/Danger" red section.
So it should be OK.
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1999 Residency 3790 Ford V-10, Banks Equipped, Tag Axle, Koni FSD
2012 Jeep Patriot on ACME EZE-TOW dolly
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06-04-2011, 05:09 PM
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#9
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Moderator Emeritus
Vintage RV Owners Club Texas Boomers Club Oklahoma Boomers Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 11,980
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R12 or R134a should have a clear glass. My best advice to you is to first find the leak and then recharge the system. I would hire a trained tech to fix it right rather than chance several hundred dollars of potential repair cost if you do something wrong.
You also need to hold the engine at a high idle (1100 or 1200 RPM) for at least 5 minutes, with the AC fan on high speed and the RV doors and windows ope to keep the AC loaded and on.
ken
__________________
Amateur Radio Operator|Practicing for our retirement! 2008 Cameo 35SB3 - 2002 7.3L Crew Cab Dually w/ a SCMT - Max Brake - Travel with one Miniature Schnauzer, one Standard Schnauzer and one small Timneh African Gray Parrot
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06-06-2011, 02:07 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 466
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Thank you all for your advice.
Now, who is correct about the bubbles in 134a, krivanj or TXiceman???
__________________
1999 Residency 3790 Ford V-10, Banks Equipped, Tag Axle, Koni FSD
2012 Jeep Patriot on ACME EZE-TOW dolly
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06-06-2011, 02:30 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: texas
Posts: 701
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question in 1999 was it r-12 if so get r-12a (freeze 12)
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06-06-2011, 07:35 AM
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#12
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Moderator Emeritus
Vintage RV Owners Club Texas Boomers Club Oklahoma Boomers Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 11,980
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1999 should be R134a. An expansion valve for the unit is very difficult to size and make operate properly if you have 2 phase flow entering the valve. They are designed for liquid at the inlet. If there are bubbles, that is 2 phase flow.
Some of the small units operating on the blends (R400 series) will have a few bubbles, when converted from R-22.
Ken
__________________
Amateur Radio Operator|Practicing for our retirement! 2008 Cameo 35SB3 - 2002 7.3L Crew Cab Dually w/ a SCMT - Max Brake - Travel with one Miniature Schnauzer, one Standard Schnauzer and one small Timneh African Gray Parrot
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06-06-2011, 07:50 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mcdonough, Ga.
Posts: 1,392
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I started servicing Ac's in the R12 era. When the 134A came along I had a heck of a time servicing. I finally got smart and went to our local AC service center and talked to them. You do not service till the bubbles stop, as you did with R12. It is much easier to overfill with R134A. Stay to the low side of the pressure band when servicing.
__________________
15 year motorhome service manager. 3 popups....2 travel trailers....5 motorhomes....loved them all.
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06-06-2011, 03:13 PM
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#14
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Moderator Emeritus
Vintage RV Owners Club Texas Boomers Club Oklahoma Boomers Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 11,980
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The units I have serviced all ran clear sight glosses. R-12 and R134a are both refrigerants with similar properties. I have designed a number of systems using R134a and you still have to have a clear liquid seal art the expansion device.
Refrigerant s change, but thermodynqmics and heat transfer do not. If yo are getting bubbles at the sight port and you are "full", there is some restriction up stream causing a pressure drop which causes the bubbles.
Have you ever tried to size an expansion device for 2 phase flow or flashing liquid entering the valve?
Mechanical engineer specializing in thermodynamics and many, many A/C units and refrigeration units over the past 41 years. I have designed them, serviced them, rebuilt them and started them up.
Ken
__________________
Amateur Radio Operator|Practicing for our retirement! 2008 Cameo 35SB3 - 2002 7.3L Crew Cab Dually w/ a SCMT - Max Brake - Travel with one Miniature Schnauzer, one Standard Schnauzer and one small Timneh African Gray Parrot
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