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Old 04-06-2015, 10:21 PM   #1
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Changing Spark Plugs

For anyone that has a 1996 Fleetwood Pace Arrow Vision. Or something similar with a 460 Ford. I would like to know the best way to change the spark plugs? I am a Do It Myself kind of guy. Also If your MH has a Banks exhaust system, How would you go about removing the headers to remove a broken Exhaust Header bolt? Any Help would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 04-07-2015, 04:54 AM   #2
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For the spark plugs I have found a socket and a ratchet works the best on a warm engine. You will find the number 5 & 6 spark plugs are the hardest to get to. I remove all the rest from the wheel wells. Number 5 & 6 was kind of a top and bottom job.

As far as the broken bolt goes on my 92 460 in a class "C" I just removed the heads and took them to a machine shop and had them remove the bolts and do a valve job on them at the same time. I pulled the engine first and replaced the water pump, timing chain, oil pump and bearings at the same time on an engine stand.

For taking a broken bolt out I always found welding a nut on the broken bolt works the best and it is the easiest way. But you will find in a search there are as many ways to do this as the searches you do.
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Old 04-07-2015, 11:29 PM   #3
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how high?

Oh man, How high did you have to raise it for clearance to remove the engine? You had to remove the wheels, axel, radiator, steering components? OH man the more I think about it gives me a migraine. How many miles were on it when you started this project? I only have about 56,000 on it now. Did you put any performance modifications on it like a cam? I'm looking at my bank account shrink as I think about it.
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Old 04-08-2015, 12:18 AM   #4
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depends on engine access... I had an old Dodge Van with a 360 that need manifold gaskets to pass inspection..

I took it into a shop who said to take it to a certain muffler shop in town as he was the guy the dealers used... never pulled a head and always got the bolt out..

end of the day it was lowest bill I ever saw!!

Sometimes shop it around..

But, doing it yourself depends on room to get a drill or 90 degree drill in if you have to drill and I would replace all with quality studs and always warm a motor slow and never put away red hot...little cool down..
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Old 04-08-2015, 05:21 AM   #5
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Oh man, How high did you have to raise it for clearance to remove the engine? You had to remove the wheels, axel, radiator, steering components? OH man the more I think about it gives me a migraine. How many miles were on it when you started this project? I only have about 56,000 on it now. Did you put any performance modifications on it like a cam? I'm looking at my bank account shrink as I think about it.
As I said it was 1982 class "C" E350 stile. No I did not remove all of that and did the same thing on a 1988 E-series but just replaced the engine on that one.
On both the 82 & 88 I just removed the grill & radiator, supported the transmission with a transmission jack, pulled the condenser aside. Put on a lifting plate and took it out the front with an engine hoist. I have a lot of toys to do this kind of work.

If you want to do it on a class "A" and it has a drivers door you just take it out that door. But you might have to pull the heads first for clearance along with the steering column and drivers seat. As I have no pit to put it over.

No performance modifications, I just left both of them stock. But I did put headers on my 94 F53.
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Old 04-08-2015, 12:23 PM   #6
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I have changed plugs on just about every motorhome around our area. ( O.K. maybe that is a big stretch.)But I have done bunches. I always used the front jacks and put jack stands under the frame. (I would never stick my body in the wheel well with just the stabilizer jacks holding it up.) Remove the front wheels. (ten minutes tops.) Lay a piece of carpet over the hub. Lay down on the carpet and change the plugs. Removing the wheels really makes a difference!
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Old 04-09-2015, 09:21 AM   #7
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Looks to me that the passenger side is the easiest one. The drivers side has the brake system in the way. And this one has headers.
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Old 04-09-2015, 11:03 AM   #8
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Yes spark plugs #5 & #6 as I said above are a little hard to get at because of the brake system.
When you put the new ones in you might want to put some anti-seize on the threads.
You may also want to put High temp spark plug wires on it also.

Unless you are heavy set I think you can change them all without jacking it up or removing the wheels. I can on mine just turn the wheels all the way in one direction and then the other way to get in there to them. Also you can do most of it from above by removing the dog house.
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Old 04-09-2015, 05:02 PM   #9
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Well as that goes, I am heavy set. don't fit too well . To remove the dog house are they glued or bolted and sealed? I'm not sure how its mounted.
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Old 04-09-2015, 06:17 PM   #10
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Well as that goes, I am heavy set. don't fit too well . To remove the dog house are they glued or bolted and sealed? I'm not sure how its mounted.
I would have no idea as your was done by Fleetwood so you might want to ask that question over on the Fleetwood Forum.

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Old 04-10-2015, 10:47 PM   #11
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I dont know how mine was built at factory, but so far this one seems to just kind of sit there. A table sits on top of it and gives it weight, added to its own weight it has never randomly opened or leaked, i think theres some sort of rubber in there.

I removed table by removing drawers and theres two tool-free brackets you remove, pull table off. open doghouse fully.
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:17 AM   #12
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Well I'm currently raising the MH off the ground to get access through the frame. I was thinking if I just raised the axel and removed the wheels I could fit. But, I have to support the frame with jack stands and let the axel hang for better clearance for me to fit. I sprayed the plugs with penetrating oil and letting it sit, hopefully it will work. The last ford motor I had was in a boat and the plugs were so rusted in the heads that they broke off. And getting to these suck, so rust is not a option hear.
Oh did I mention that it has a Banks Kit on it? Yeah it has headers on it too. So I am replacing the Plug wires, Cap and Rotor, and putting a spark plug wire covers for added heat protection. Ordered from Summit Racing. I want as much juice running to the plugs as possible, With Brass and Stainless steel for the connectors.
I will be trying to remove the broken bolt. But if it can't be removed at this time. Its going to be my next winters project. And what a project that will be. I will keep you informed as to my progress, if anyone is interested. And Thanks again for all the advice!
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:20 AM   #13
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OOPS, I forgot to address the dog house issue. Mine has a molded cover that is hinged on a riser on which is glued and impossible to remove without damaging it. So access is limited, Very Limited.
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