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Old 05-24-2012, 02:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
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I was under the impression that the Triton V-10 was the modular motor and the plugs are under the cover on top of the valve covers. Is it really necessary to jack up the motor to get to these plugs through the top of the valve cover?
Let me clarify. In my Expedition the rear half of the engine is in the firewall and no way to get to them without moving the engine.

In my MH, the engine if fully exposed with the dog house off.
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Old 05-24-2012, 04:21 PM   #16
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2000stormer, yes I agree that if they are 100k plugs then there is no point in changing them at 58K miles. $349 is steep price for changing the plugs. Need to start saving now so you will have enough $$$ when you get to a 100K miles
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Old 05-24-2012, 06:09 PM   #17
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Our Ford at 70K spat the ceramic center out of a spark plug. Really loud, sounded like a blown flapping tire.
I was shocked at the state of the outside of the plugs and was really surprised and lucky to get them all out without rounding them off.
They may be good for 100K but I will change mine in our new MoHo before that time.
The parts guy said he had seen that happen before.
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Old 05-24-2012, 06:14 PM   #18
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If you use NGK or Denso replacement plugs then they are plated and will not rust and sieze up in the hole.
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Old 05-25-2012, 06:58 AM   #19
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What!!! seriously, Ford admit that they had a screw up with the plug threads on the early model V10 engines & then a dealer have to re-thread a plug hole for free, your kidding right.

$349.00 to change out those V10 plugs, at a Ford dealership, better get that statement on paper & have it signed by a lawyer to be locked in.

Ford should have been made, to have a recall on every one of those 98 to 2002 year V10 engines to correct that engineers screw up.
That is really some way to treat a Ford customer, screw it up & then let the customer eat it.
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Old 05-25-2012, 07:15 AM   #20
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I didn't know that Ford admitted to a problem, is that so? I thought it was just the home mechanic either not using anti-sieze compound on the threads or cross threading the plugs when he puts them in.
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Old 05-25-2012, 07:46 AM   #21
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Doug, when you talked to this Ford tech, were you clear this was for an RV with a dog house which will fully expose the engine?

The reason I'm asking is I was quoted about the same price for my 5.4 Triton, were the engine had to be moved to change the plugs. I'm fairly sure this would be the case also for a V10 in an F series.
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Old 05-25-2012, 08:21 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C-Leigh Racing View Post
What!!! seriously, Ford admit that they had a screw up with the plug threads on the early model V10 engines & then a dealer have to re-thread a plug hole for free, your kidding right.

$349.00 to change out those V10 plugs, at a Ford dealership, better get that statement on paper & have it signed by a lawyer to be locked in.

Ford should have been made, to have a recall on every one of those 98 to 2002 year V10 engines to correct that engineers screw up.
That is really some way to treat a Ford customer, screw it up & then let the customer eat it.
Neil
I went back and reviewed this thread, thinking I had missed a posting. I don't see anyone that claims Ford admitted there was an issue.

You're dealing with steel threaded plugs in an aluminum head. If the plugs are allowed to stay in for a long time, the dissimilar metals will create galvanic corrosion that will degrade the threads. The fact that plugs are now rated for 100,000 miles means that people never touch them results in compounding the problem.

I think removing the plugs early and using anti-seize would prevent issues in the future. Of course starting by hand and not over tightening them is a must. I played with air-cooled VWs for years and had much experience with aluminum heads. In those old underpowered 4 cylinder engines, a fouled sparkplug or bad wires made a dramatic change in 'performance.' With 10 cylinders, a weak cylinder or two is harder to notice.
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Old 05-25-2012, 08:48 AM   #23
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"You're dealing with steel threaded plugs in an aluminum head. If the plugs are allowed to stay in for a long time, the dissimilar metals will create galvanic corrosion that will degrade the threads. The fact that plugs are now rated for 100,000 miles means that people never touch them results in compounding the problem."

It would appear that the Ford engineers should be made aware of this problem and have the Scheduled Maintenance section in the owners manual changed to reflect plug change interval at a mileage less than 100,000.
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Old 05-25-2012, 08:54 AM   #24
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I'm sure the engineers are aware of the issue, but the marketing people are the ones touting the 'maintenance free' qualities of the vehicle.
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:01 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Canter
2000stormer, yes I agree that if they are 100k plugs then there is no point in changing them at 58K miles. $349 is steep price for changing the plugs. Need to start saving now so you will have enough $$$ when you get to a 100K miles
Just from my experience.
I was told there is a difference between a plug going bad before 100,000 and requiring maintenance (like having the gap set).
The warranty is against failure, from what I was told.
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:21 AM   #26
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Another thing to consider, is how long you plan on keeping the motor home. If it has 50,000 miles on it and you drive 8,000 to 10,000 miles per year you have 5 or 6 years before you reach the 100,000 mile mark. If you don't plan on keeping it any longer than that, why expose yourself to the added expense?
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:42 AM   #27
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Just a while ago I asked my 'shop' about the plug stuff. He told me, the earlier sparkplugs were manufactured in 2 pieces. The new plug is a one piece job. The shop will loosen (break) the plug at around 40,000 miles and of course tighten it again....
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:02 AM   #28
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Yes, I explained the year and model of my motorhome. Thanks for your interest.
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