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Old 05-25-2012, 11:14 AM   #29
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You know.....I'm beginning to think the mechanics at Ford really don't know what they are talking about. When I was talking to the mechanic this week, at the aforementioned Ford Truck Dealership, he went to great lengths to explain that there would be no problem with the older plug because they are in one piece....that the new plugs are in three pieces and that they have real problems with these....the new ones !
Makes one wonder who really knows .
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Old 05-26-2012, 01:26 PM   #30
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There was a difference in the spark plugs Ford installed, from the first V10 to the newer models.
The 98~99 year V10, was a one piece spark plug, BUT, those year models of aluminum heads only had 4 threads to hold the plug in.
From what I've read & heard from parts supply houses, 2000 & up to 04, had the two piece plugs that would break when you try to remove them.
Some were lucky enough that all the plugs didnt break while being removed.

Where the problem comes in on the 98~99 years, only 4 threads in those heads.
Why on earth would an engineer with any common sense at all, put only 4 threads in an aluminum head to holds a spark plug in an engine.
You see, stuff like that, leads you to think they have designed failure into the product, its just crazy.

Back to my earlier reply where I said, seriously, Ford admit they had a problem. I said admit, never said Ford "admitted" they had a problem.
Ford Motor Company would never admit that was a design problem on their part & have to eat all those head replacements.
Neil
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Old 05-26-2012, 03:32 PM   #31
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You might find this interesting
Ford Triton V8 Spark Plug Information & How To Repair, Problems Include: Blow Out, Spit Out, Seized, Frozen, Stripped, Broken, Stuck In Cylinder Head, & Special Tools, Thread Inserts Needed To Repair AutoRepairInstructions.com

Basically what all the articles that I have read on this problem say is not to wait until 100k miles to change the plugs but to change them earlier and put in the new type of plug as soon as possible. That article above has a procedure on how to loosen the plugs which is worth noting. They loosen then a 1/4 turn then spray lubricant down the hole and let them sit before turning them anymore. That is one heck of a decision to make on do you take the failing/breaking spark plug out at an early mileage and hope that they come out or wait for 100k when they will be worse. The problem is that the original plug can blow apart at anytime going down the road and then you are at the mercy of any garage you can find. If it was me I think I would pay Ford the $400 and have them changed to the new type plug so it doesn't happen while on the road. Most garages are probably going to try and charge you to pull the head and fix the problem vice using the thread fixer like I recommended earlier or the one Ford uses. There is a Ford Technical Service Bullitin issued on it which you can read here
Full Text Technical Service Bulletin
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Old 05-26-2012, 07:04 PM   #32
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I thought the 2 piece plug problem went past 2006.

http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog...rd-tsb-08-7-6/
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Old 05-26-2012, 11:07 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pirate View Post
I thought the 2 piece plug problem went past 2006.

Changing Ford Spark Plugs 4.6, 5.4, 6.8 - Ford TSB 08-7-6 | Denlors Auto Blog
Hmmm, according to this statement on denlorstools web site:


"Which Ones To Look Out For Affected vehicles include; 4.6, 5.4 and 6.8 3V engines found in many 2004-2008 Ford Mustangs, Expeditions, F150′s, Motor-homes."



It would appear only the later model engines are plagued with the problem.


I feel a lot better now--
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Old 05-27-2012, 06:30 AM   #34
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Hmmm, according to this statement on denlorstools web site:


"Which Ones To Look Out For Affected vehicles include; 4.6, 5.4 and 6.8 3V engines found in many 2004-2008 Ford Mustangs, Expeditions, F150′s, Motor-homes."



It would appear only the later model engines are plagued with the problem.


I feel a lot better now--
Actually there are potentially 2 different problems with sparkplugs in the Ford V 10 engines. The first generation had only 4 threads in the head to hold the plugs. These were the ones that were potentially spit out when they beacme loose, or when improperly installed.

The problem with the 2004 - 2008 engines is theat they used plugs with long threads in thicker heads with 8 threads to hold the plug in place. If the plugs weren't anti siezed or if they were over torqued on installation they could get stuck in the bore and literally break leaving the threaded section in the bore.

Having said this I changed out the plugs on our 01 engine at 95,000 miles without a problem. Once the dog house is removed it's a fairly simple job. About all you have to do is remove 1 bolt and disconnect a wire to lift off each coil. Once the coil is off you need to be sure there is no debris in the head recess. It's best to blow out the hole with compressed air before putting a wrench on the plug. With reasonable precautions and common sense you shouldn't have any problems. I used the Autolite Platinum plugs recommended by Ford. They were a bit more expensive than some others. If memory serves correctly they were about $8.00 per plug at NAPA.
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Old 05-27-2012, 07:03 AM   #35
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You should read the FORD Technical Bullitin. Ford states it goes from 1997 to 2008

Full Text Technical Service Bulletin
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:28 AM   #36
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"You're dealing with steel threaded plugs in an aluminum head. If the plugs are allowed to stay in for a long time, the dissimilar metals will create galvanic corrosion that will degrade the threads. The fact that plugs are now rated for 100,000 miles means that people never touch them results in compounding the problem."

It would appear that the Ford engineers should be made aware of this problem and have the Scheduled Maintenance section in the owners manual changed to reflect plug change interval at a mileage less than 100,000.
It just amazes me that engineers dont know that you DONT mix aluminum with iron or steel. Because of galvanic corrosion. They do that all the time in just about everything. Even my caddilac with the North Star engine has a aluminum block and iron heads and head bolts.The older north stars had headgasket problems because of this combination and those repairs cost big bucks..
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Old 05-27-2012, 10:20 AM   #37
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Again, that is why I only use plated sparkplugs and never the bear metal daek colored base like Motorcraft or Autolite. Those bear metal base plugs will rust and will have galvanic action with the aluminum. The Champion, NGK and Denso plugs are all premium one piece plugs and the metal is plated. You can tell because they look like they are chromed. Used to be cadium plated but that caused cancer so they are now using something else. Also, have to use anti-seize compound.
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Old 05-27-2012, 04:40 PM   #38
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Why does post #13 say to take plugs out when the head is hot or warm. I was told years ago to not remove the plugs from hot aluminum heads for fear of stripping the threads?
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Old 05-27-2012, 04:48 PM   #39
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Why would you strip aluminum threads by removing the plug when it is hot? That is a new one on me because the aluminum's properties have not changed. If the aluminum head is warm or hot then it is expanded and not tight around the plug so it is easier to remove. This is why you heat objects to remove them if they are tight. I am not talking about overheated aluminum.
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Old 05-28-2012, 06:52 AM   #40
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You should read the FORD Technical Bullitin. Ford states it goes from 1997 to 2008

Full Text Technical Service Bulletin

The bulletin may apply to different vehicles through the years 1997 - 2008, but the only motorhome chassis involved are 1998 - 2004 F53 and Super Duty chassis. All the engines involved are the 2 valve per cylinder models. As I recall Ford didn't make a 2005 F53. They ran the 2004 models into 2005 and went directly to the 2006 3 valve per cylinder model.

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...essd_06mhc.pdf
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Old 05-28-2012, 07:36 AM   #41
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The fact still remains though, we are sitting here going back & forth over a problem we shouldnt be having to deal with, trying to correct it best we know how, when Ford Motor Company should be doing something to correct it them self.

What is the difference, in a person trying to price gouge some unfortunate person, that has been through a terrible storm, lost most everything they had & the gouge person trying to sell them something at four times the price normally paid.
Theres laws in place for stuff like that & what Ford has done, no different than that price gouging person.
If I had a business, its up to me that everything is up to standards in quality, or else I would have to eat it if the customer brings it back.

Dont get me wrong, now I love my Ford, but what is due is due.
Neil
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Old 05-30-2012, 08:32 PM   #42
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Why would you strip aluminum threads by removing the plug when it is hot? That is a new one on me because the aluminum's properties have not changed. If the aluminum head is warm or hot then it is expanded and not tight around the plug so it is easier to remove. This is why you heat objects to remove them if they are tight. I am not talking about overheated aluminum.

I thought if the aluminum was expanded, the plug hole would be smaller... Hot - tight. I often freeze bearing races prior to installing them so they go in easier.

I thought you heated (then cooled) metal to break parts free if the metals were dissimilar, as they expand and contract at different rates.
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