Chassis Rust

[rjsupersonic]

My 07 Sea breeze has a few areas of chassis rust like many other coaches. Is there a way to maybe slow down the rusting process. I have heard of a spray paint that can be sprayed over the rust to slow it down... I really don't want to sand down the areas and repaint them. Any suggestions?

[BFlinn181]

Once the chemical action of rust has started, it's tough to stop it. It requires a couple of steps to do a job worth the effort. First, wire brush all loose rust flakes and loose paint from the area you hope to preserve. You may use an electric drill with a round wire brush if you wish. Once the surface is clean, then apply a product like Naval Jelly. This is a gel form of phosphoric acid that will stick to the rusty surface in any orientation. Repeatedly apply, one coat on top of another, until all the reddish rust color has turned black. (Chemically you're changing iron oxide to ferric phosphate, which is much less reactive to oxygen and water than uncoated steel)

Wash the Naval Jelly off the surface and let dry. Paint (rattle can or brush) a good rust inhibiting paint.

I wouldn't worry about the frame rails, they are thick enough not to rust through in the lifetime of most RVs. Steel braces and compartment frames, especially at weld points, are the parts you might treat in the above manner.

[superk]

thats some very good advice. I have never heard of naval jelly before, I will absolutely be looking into this.

[Mr_D]

RustOliem (sp?) makes a "paint" that appears to do the same. I have a can, just waiting for Cummins to fix the engine so I can start on the few spots I found on the chassis.

[BFlinn181]

Rustoleum makes a variety of products, but none have any phosphoric acid to chemically change the iron oxide (rust) to a different substance. I think just spraying paint over blistering rust is a very temporary repair.

[Clayobx]

Try the product "Ospho". It's reaction is the same result as naval jelly but much easier to apply. Just wire brush, sand if necessary, brush on the liquid Ospho, let dry, paint with rust preventative paint. I go one step further and buy spray undercoating. It's a rubberized base like the manufacturers use to undercoat parts of the chassis. Works well.

[TeJay]

Am I correct in assuming that in some parts of the country they (communities, State road departments etc) have stopped trying to stop some of the rusting issues and have just allowed stuff to get the surface coating of rust which should almost stop the rusting at that point??? Maybe it's a cost factor. It's cheaper to let it rust then replace it after X numbers of years as opposed to trying to stop the rust by stripping and painting every 3-4 years.

I've seen the movie about the Golden Gate Bridge. They are continually stripping and re-painting that bridge. They start at one end and when they finish they start all over. It's a lifetime painting job. Yes it is one of our countries ICONS and nobody wants to see it turn to rust. Rust Gate Bridge just does not sound as nice. The rust is also an issues for the structure of the bridge if they didn't stop it.

I don't know it just something to think about.

TeJay

[BFlinn181]

Originally Posted by TeJay

Am I correct in assuming that in some parts of the country they (communities, State road departments etc) have stopped trying to stop some of the rusting issues and have just allowed stuff to get the surface coating of rust which should almost stop the rusting at that point??? Maybe it's a cost factor. It's cheaper to let it rust then replace it after X numbers of years as opposed to trying to stop the rust by stripping and painting every 3-4 years.


TeJay

Some alloys of steel are formulated to build up a surface of oxide and then it inhibits further rust without needing constant maintenance. Autos in the '60s and '70s were built of VERY reactive steel and were very hard to prevent rusting. More modern vehicles make use of galvanized steels that inhibit rust to some degree, but in RV chassis this is often foiled by welded pieces added on.

Fact is, you can't really prevent oxidation, you can only slow it down. As a classroom 'waker-upper' I used to start a discussion with a beaker of water (not identified) on my desk. I'd point out it was the most corrosive, destructive liquid in nature. I'd point out it could weaken and dissolve metal, wood, rock, even flesh if in repeated or constant contact. After building it up, I'd act like I was in need of a drink and pick up the beaker and take a drink.

[TeJay]

I used a similar technique when talking about electricity. Kids and many adults have very little understanding of electricity and how it works. Many believe that their car battery will shock or even kill them. I'd (safely) demonstrate how a dead short across a battery could melt a 16 gauge copper wire. Then I'd wet my fingers and place them directly on the battery posts with no resulting shocks or burns.

There's nothing like action (doing) to really explain how things work.

I had a friend who had a 30 foot aluminum hulled cabin cruiser. He would pull into the dock and plug it in to correctly charge the hull to prevent electrolysis from eating up the aluminum hull. The same thing is done on the oil platforms in the oceans. All ships are effected by electrolysis as well and their hulls have to be correctly charged to prevent corrosion.

I'll bet you one in a 1,000 people don't know those bits of trivial facts.

TeJay

[Hikerdogs]

The best thing I've found over the years to stop rust in its tracks is POR-15.

Stop Rust with POR-15® - We Know What Permanent Means!

I used it on the LP tank of our 2001 Adventurer and on some tractor wheels that I thought I was going to have to throw away. In both cases it did an excellent job.

They make an assortment of different colors and formulas for specific jobs. Since I was going to use a cover coat I chose the silver. It has more metal content than the other colors. The stuff is expensive, but it lasts forever. If you follow the instructions you'll only have to do it once.

A little goes a long way. I purchased a quart, and have so far done 4 wheels and a 28 gallon LP tank. I have about half the can left for future applications. When the weather warms a bit I'm going to use it on my Ariens snow blower.

Anyone that has experience with an Ariens blower knows after a few years the paint comes off in sheets. If the paint works as well for this application as it has for the others it's the only rust preventive paint I'll ever buy from here on out.

[cc8375]

On the Farm we use Rustoleum- rust preventer or just cover with regular Rustoleum paint. Pick up up at Walmart for best price,

Stops Rust® Rust Reformer Product Page

Little more work, but cheaper, we just buy Tractor paint from TSC or similar store. You will need to brush it on.

Tractor Supply Co. - Enjoy browsing:Tractor Paint

We do Both. Parking on Grass or gravel also creates the rusting issue.

[hdzcar]

I use this stuff on my utility trailer with a steel floor that sits out in the weather year round. Works great. Eastwood Company: Search Results for rust encapsulatorÂ*inproducts

[rjsupersonic]

Originally Posted by hdzcar

I use this stuff on my utility trailer with a steel floor that sits out in the weather year round. Works great. Eastwood Company: Search Results for rust encapsulatorÂ*inproducts

hank

Thanks, I think I may try it, just what I need!

[MT4Runner]

Originally Posted by Hikerdogs

The best thing I've found over the years to stop rust in its tracks is POR-15.

Stop Rust with POR-15® - We Know What Permanent Means!

I used it on the LP tank of our 2001 Adventurer and on some tractor wheels that I thought I was going to have to throw away. In both cases it did an excellent job.

They make an assortment of different colors and formulas for specific jobs. Since I was going to use a cover coat I chose the silver. It has more metal content than the other colors. The stuff is expensive, but it lasts forever. If you follow the instructions you'll only have to do it once.

A little goes a long way. I purchased a quart, and have so far done 4 wheels and a 28 gallon LP tank. I have about half the can left for future applications. When the weather warms a bit I'm going to use it on my Ariens snow blower.

Anyone that has experience with an Ariens blower knows after a few years the paint comes off in sheets. If the paint works as well for this application as it has for the others it's the only rust preventive paint I'll ever buy from here on out.

POR-15 works great, but will start curing in the can once opened.

I assume you used the POR-20 (silver aluminum)?

I have also used their WhiteCote, HardNose paint, and Glisten PC clear...which are all 2-part products that don't cure in the can. They are top coats with UV inhibitors.

POR-15 itself is technically a primer, and works AWESOME for encapsulating rust; while it looks glossy (gray or black) when first applied, it will get chalky if exposed to direct sunlight for 3-4 months.