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Old 04-12-2013, 02:00 PM   #1387
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Has anybody done the CHF with curved front end links? I wanted to replace with Hellwig links but that doesn't look possible.

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Old 04-12-2013, 05:31 PM   #1388
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My 13 Baystar had straight links, but I see no need to change them. I didn't change the front or rear links. If you do the bushings don't match up right anyway. Everything works great just using the stock links and bushings. I haven't jumped any motorcycles, yet!
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:10 PM   #1389
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I got a sand drag Bultaco in the back shed if you're in the jumpy mood.

Even if the links are curved like scbuchholz, I'd just try it and if it looked like a clearance issue, I'd add a washer or two on the inside of the top links.

If Dunner can't fix it, it ain't broke!



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Old 04-12-2013, 07:53 PM   #1390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunner View Post
I got a sand drag Bultaco in the back shed if you're in the jumpy mood.

Even if the links are curved like scbuchholz, I'd just try it and if it looked like a clearance issue, I'd add a washer or two on the inside of the top links.

If Dunner can't fix it, it ain't broke!
To keep the same angle, I think my options are 1 inch spacer on the top and hellwig links or make the existing links longer.

To move the existing links to the second hole seems like a real stretch.
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Old 04-13-2013, 12:14 AM   #1391
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Don't think I would go with a spacer. That would require a longer bold, and unless you could find a way to support the end of the bolt, it would make it prone to bending or breaking. Try using the stock link and check for interference points. As I posted, maybe a couple of thick washers.

If you could find some tubing that just fits over the existing link, cut it at a straight section and weld in ~1-1/4".



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Old 04-13-2013, 01:55 AM   #1392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scbuchholz View Post
To keep the same angle, I think my options are 1 inch spacer on the top and hellwig links or make the existing links longer.

To move the existing links to the second hole seems like a real stretch.
Mine looked like a real stretch also and when I did change holes I had a drastic change in sway bar angle. It looks kind of funky, but looks can be deceiving and it works great. The rears don't look bad at all. Even the great Jim McKinney, did not alter the length of the links when he invented the
CHF. You have one of the larger, if not the largest F53 chassis which is why the links are curved I would guess. May have to check the poll by the great Dunner, but I am thinking a very small percentage of CHFers actually changed the links.
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Old 04-13-2013, 12:41 PM   #1393
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I'm surprised there are no Z brackets on that installation.
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:03 PM   #1394
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The way they position them they do next to nothing for support of the bolt(s). For a shear brace to work, it has to go in the direction to or from the pulling/pushing force.



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Old 04-13-2013, 03:39 PM   #1395
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I changed out my rear factory anti-sway to the second set of holes. The bar changed very little in upward angle. The front factory anti-sway bar will move the angle too far upward so ordered the Helwig adjustable hangers so I can maintain the same angle. Hope to get those in a couple of weeks. Hope it works as well as other results that have been posted.
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Old 04-13-2013, 05:49 PM   #1396
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Originally Posted by KSCRUDE View Post
Mine looked like a real stretch also and when I did change holes I had a drastic change in sway bar angle. It looks kind of funky, but looks can be deceiving and it works great. The rears don't look bad at all. Even the great Jim McKinney, did not alter the length of the links when he invented the
CHF. You have one of the larger, if not the largest F53 chassis which is why the links are curved I would guess. May have to check the poll by the great Dunner, but I am thinking a very small percentage of CHFers actually changed the links.
Made the change on both front and rear. Like everyone else the angle on the rear changed very little. Surprised and pleased with the angle on the front, it changed but not as drastic as I had feared. And you were right, no problem getting to the second slot with a little help from my floor jack. The fact my links are curved didn't matter. Sorry for the blurry photo.

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Old 04-13-2013, 06:06 PM   #1397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scbuchholz View Post
Made the change on both front and rear. Like everyone else the angle on the rear changed very little. Surprised and pleased with the angle on the front, it changed but not as drastic as I had feared. And you were right, no problem getting to the second slot with a little help from my floor jack. The fact my links are curved didn't matter. Sorry for the blurry photo.

That's just the way mine look minus the curved links. I think we get a little more effect with the extreme angle. I am not a mechanical engineer, but it seems it would make for a tighter anti-sway bar this way. But that being said they perform great with the stock links. I was going to Change my links until I found out the helwig bushings would not fit and you had to retro fit your old bushings in the helwig links. Too much playing around for me so I kept mine all stock, hence I could go back to stock in no time at all. Although that will never happen!
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Old 04-13-2013, 06:11 PM   #1398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scbuchholz View Post
Has anybody done the CHF with curved front end links? I wanted to replace with Hellwig links but that doesn't look possible.

I don't know what it is, but there is something kind of sexy about them curved links.
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Old 04-13-2013, 06:41 PM   #1399
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I agree KSCRUDE. I must have close to 10,000 mi on my all stock links without the first problem. John (inventer) must have twice that by now, without issues. I also believe the different angle does help in the desired affect, just no mathmatical or any other type of proof. Doesn't matter to me anyway :-)
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Old 04-13-2013, 07:01 PM   #1400
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I went to the Tiffin factory to watch our Allegro 31SA being built. I looked at the front end to see what everyone was talking about. Attached is a picture of it. From what I have read I would remove the bolts from both sides, then use a jack to raise the arm and reinsert the bolts in the back hole. Is this correct?

I could not see the rear without crawling under it.
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