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04-20-2013, 07:29 AM
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#1443
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jwgirardi
I have a 2011 Ford F53 chassis. I did the cheap handling fix two weeks after I got the unit. I have gone thru both rear sway bar brackets since then, drivers and passenger side. The cause of both repairs were snapped bracket bolts. I believe Ford used bad/inferior bolts when they built this chassis. Hopefully, this will end my rear bracket problem. I don't think the CHF has any thing to do with it, otherwise others would of complained. My point is..keep an eye on your bracket bolts!
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Which f53? Weight? Wheel base?
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04-20-2013, 07:34 AM
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#1444
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Angola State Prison - Murder
Posts: 4,230
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I had to use the front jacks to raise the coach so the front axel would drop down. This moved the spring position to install bolts. If memory serves, it was also easier (perhaps necessary) to insert the bolts from inside to outside, rather than the original configuration. It's also possible to just jack the front axel up to move the spring position. Just not sure, it's been awhile. Go through the pictures, they show jacks down and bolts above the springs.
__________________
John & Clare Lyon
2007 43.5' Monaco Dynasty Palace III (All Electric)
Towd: 2011 Chevy Equinox
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04-20-2013, 07:48 AM
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#1445
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: The Land Of Oz RVM17
Posts: 1,592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clyon51
I had to use the front jacks to raise the coach so the front axel would drop down. This moved the spring position to install bolts. If memory serves, it was also easier (perhaps necessary) to insert the bolts from inside to outside, rather than the original configuration. It's also possible to just jack the front axel up to move the spring position. Just not sure, it's been awhile. Go through the pictures, they show jacks down and bolts above the springs.
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X2. Just jack up coach for bolt clearance then reinstall backwards.
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04-20-2013, 09:05 AM
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#1446
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clyon51
I had to use the front jacks to raise the coach so the front axel would drop down. This moved the spring position to install bolts. If memory serves, it was also easier (perhaps necessary) to insert the bolts from inside to outside, rather than the original configuration. It's also possible to just jack the front axel up to move the spring position. Just not sure, it's been awhile. Go through the pictures, they show jacks down and bolts above the springs.
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I never had a problem with getting bolts installed through holes. I slid a jack under one side of sway bar & moved up just enough for bolts to slide in. Having room to tighten bolts was a problem. The previous post of bolts breaking was of interest. Nobody else has mentiond broken bolts. Both front & rear of my MH factory bars have been moved to second hole but I haven't driven it yet. I did use Helwig hangers on front. Those upper bolts are hard to reach on front bar. Especially to torque them to 60 pounds. Impossible to get a socket on the lower right top bolt. Had to guess at that bolt. Others torqued to 60. Changing out hangers is the problem. Plus I drilled out Helwig to 15/32 to fit Ford factory bolts.
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04-20-2013, 09:19 AM
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#1447
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner Georgie Boy Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Southeastern MA.
Posts: 147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KSCRUDE
X2. Just jack up coach for bolt clearance then reinstall backwards.
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No leveling jacks on mine.
Only have a typical rolling car floor jack, but doesn't seem like that would help - Sway bar attached to axle, springs on top of axle - seems like all would be jacked-up together?
Maybe with levelers the chasis raises and wheel/springs would hang lower?
__________________
The Portable Summer Cottage III * 2012 Winnebago Vista 35F/F53.
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04-20-2013, 11:39 AM
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#1448
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Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 66
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Broken Rear sway bar brakets
Quote:
Originally Posted by wyorancher
Which f53? Weight? Wheel base?
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228" wheelbase, 24K I believe, not sure about weight.
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04-20-2013, 11:57 AM
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#1449
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jwgirardi
228" wheelbase, 24K I believe, not sure about weight.
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Thanks.
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04-20-2013, 12:38 PM
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#1450
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
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A lot of people have reported broken or loose bracket bolts and deteriorated bushings.
I tried storing some grade 8 bolts in the attic, but the mice chewed a couple of grades off of them. We have tough mice in AZ.
NAUTIQUE, if you use your leveling jacks, you should be able to move the bolt position to get the bolts out/in.
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04-21-2013, 06:39 AM
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#1451
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner Georgie Boy Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Southeastern MA.
Posts: 147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunner
NAUTIQUE, if you use your leveling jacks, you should be able to move the bolt position to get the bolts out/in.
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Dunner,
No leveling jacks on mine.
Only have a typical rolling car floor jack, but doesn't seem like that would help - Sway bar attached to axle, springs on top of axle - seems like all would be jacked-up together?
__________________
The Portable Summer Cottage III * 2012 Winnebago Vista 35F/F53.
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04-21-2013, 07:29 AM
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#1452
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
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Look at the link to the pictures a couple pages back.
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04-21-2013, 08:23 AM
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#1453
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Angola State Prison - Murder
Posts: 4,230
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You will need the floor jack to raise each side of the coach enough to slip the bolts in over the spring into the bar. As the body lifts, the leaf spring will drop down out of the way, not by much, but enough.
__________________
John & Clare Lyon
2007 43.5' Monaco Dynasty Palace III (All Electric)
Towd: 2011 Chevy Equinox
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04-21-2013, 08:38 AM
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#1454
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clyon51
You will need the floor jack to raise each side of the coach enough to slip the bolts in over the spring into the bar. As the body lifts, the leaf spring will drop down out of the way, not by much, but enough.
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I just connected the high side then put a hydraulic jack under the low sway bar & raised it until the bolts slid in.
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04-21-2013, 08:37 PM
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#1455
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: The Land Of Oz RVM17
Posts: 1,592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clyon51
You will need the floor jack to raise each side of the coach enough to slip the bolts in over the spring into the bar. As the body lifts, the leaf spring will drop down out of the way, not by much, but enough.
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That's the way mine went. When you jack up the coach, the springs drop down just barley enough to get the bolts out. Then I put then in backwards so the next time it will be a piece of German chocolate cake.
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04-22-2013, 05:25 AM
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#1456
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner Georgie Boy Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Southeastern MA.
Posts: 147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clyon51
You will need the floor jack to raise each side of the coach enough to slip the bolts in over the spring into the bar. As the body lifts, the leaf spring will drop down out of the way, not by much, but enough.
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So, as I think about this some more, I'm guessing I need to find a jack point up on the chasis rail (not under axle) that will raise coach and let the wheel/axle "hang" enough to clear bolt?
I'll get under there again and take a look - I do think it's going to be tough with just a floor jack though. (Actually I get a little freaked trying to lift this beast!)
__________________
The Portable Summer Cottage III * 2012 Winnebago Vista 35F/F53.
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