Cheap Handling Fix

[navychaps]

Originally Posted by jcthorne

Just an update.

I purchased and installed the Hellwig adjustable endlinks to help with the percieved geometry problem.

Actually the factory end links are not at 90deg with the suspension level and loaded.

Installed the end links and adjusted to near stock angle or slightly closer to 90. Took the coach for a drive, some curves and freeway ramps. Could not tell much difference from the factory end links in the shorter arm mounting position. A bit of an improvement perhaps but not worse or less effect from the sway bar. Still not at 90deg to the bar but much closer and actually better than the stock angle. Could have adjusted to exactly match the stock angle but did not feel like unbolting to move the bar 3 to 5 deg. The Hellwig adjustable endlinks fit perfectly and are much stronger in construction and mounting hardware than the factory links so I'll leave them and consider the mod complete for now.

End result, the shorter moment arm mounting position for the end links makes a significant improvement in sway and roll for very few dollars invested.

Did you also install the optional clevis bracket or did they just bolt up to the original mount points? Thanks!

[Hrudey]

I know that this thread has been going on a long-long time.

I have a question. My RV has a 2006 chassis, even though the motor home is a 2007. The front sway bar does not have "z" brackets. I understand how to do the fix on the front sway bar.

The rear sway bar does have "z" brackets installed through the two holes on the sway bar itself. There are also "z" brackets at the frame end of the tie rods. FYI-the rear sway bar is above the differential over the pumpkin.

My question is: Do I just flip the "z" bracket around at the sway bar so as to attach the tie rod to the inner hole of the sway bar?

A picture of someone's fix for the rear sway bar on a 2006 chassis would really help me understand what to do about the "z" brackets.

There still is a good photo of the front sway bar fix available on this forum.

Thanks,
Hrudey

[macnkat]

Originally Posted by Horseshoe

I did it before my trip this past week. My bar hit the front springs when I used the factory links, so I ordered the adjustable ones that were suggested and put the bar in the same attitude it was before, but used the inner holes.

While I was doing the mod, I decided to add the Steer Safe also. It is the ugliest contraption I have ever seen and looks terrible under my coach, but I came home through 30 MPH headwinds and crosswinds around curves and bridges. I never swerved or moved out of the lane at all, even when being passed by semi's going much faster than I was. In my opinion this is a great modification. When I got home last night, I was not worn out from having to overdrive all of the way.

Again, I don't know if one or the other mod did the most good, but unless I look under the front of my Motorhome, I love it.

Interesting, my Bounder had Steer Safe installed by the previous owner and this unit handles better than the 35' 2005 Pace Arrow we rented last year. I can't wait to try out the rest of this mod...Vegas bound in early October and that trip always has some winds to deal with so it should be a good test.

[Open-Road-Pr]

This past week we made our first trip since moving the anti-sway bar links on both bars. This isn't a cure all for winds by any means, nor was it touted as such. It sure makes driving in windy conditions more tolerable & much less of a battle. All swaying is noticeably lessened & cornering speeds are increased appreciably. Maybe it's just me, but I feel the rear of the MH looser by a tad more than it used to be, but it could be due to the front being so much tighter now, so the rear movement is noticed more. I realize it is only 655 miles since the 'surgery' was performed, but I'm not sorry it was done.
Ron

[Dunner]

Hrudey, If you're talking about this, it is the front and the rear of my `04 National Sea Breeze F53 with a build date of 11-03. Not ha-ha funny was that it had a 99-00 "Y" pipe. 5Star Tuning owner Mike, was a little perplexed with that, and sent me the right one with a call tag on the one it should have needed.

My friend has an `04 LX Breeze with the Chevy package and his wife complains because they don't even come with a front or rear anti-sway bar. That's his story anyhow.

The only "Z" brackets on the front of mine are at the frame end. The rear bar has some and I just flipped them over as shown in the pics. Some have said they have clearance issues with the rear, but I think they had the jacks fully extended. Mine gets close when the jacks are fully extended, but I don't see that as a problem in normal operation.

[Hrudey]

Dunner,
Thanks for the reply and especially the clear photos. Looks like I only need to flip my "z" brackets where they attach to the rear sway bar, just as you did.

My 2006 f-53 rear sway bar bends and twists above the differential, unlike yours which is below the differential. Do you think I will have any clearance problems with the sway bar above the rear differential?

Have you experienced positive results from the fix on your '04 RV?

Thanks again,
Hrudey

[Dunner]

Originally Posted by Bedwards

Hello everyone,
Looks like a couple of you have put on quite a few miles with this fix and good results so I decided to try it. I did the front by lengthening the links about 2 inches. This put the bar close to the stock location when parked and no jacks on the ground. Not saying it needed it, just decided to do it that way. Mine is a 2000 F53 22500 GVW if I remember correctly. Mine has the added bracket that looks like it helps support the bolt going thru the link and bar, I had to notch it a little so the link wouldn't hit it when I raised the front suspension all the way up till the wheels came off the ground. I probably could have just left it off, but since it was on it I wanted to kept using it.
The back I had a little problem with. The angle didn't seem to bad between the link and rear bar, so I went ahead and just moved it to the other hole. I was going to have to notch the bracket like I did on the front but I also noticed when I lowered the jacks all the way to get the rear suspension to fully extend, the sway bar was hitting the diff housing where it curves around it at the bottom. I ended up lengthening the rear links 1 inch. Now the bar just touches the bottom of the diff. The reason I didn't go any longer was that the bar would also need more room to pivot the other way when the suspension fully compresses or bottoms out. Didn't know how to bottom out the rear to check bar clearance so I measured the distance between the rubber bottom out bumper (jounce pad) and where it would contact the axle housing without the jacks on the ground. It was about 2-3/4 inches. I unbolted the bar from both links and pulled the bar down about the same distance from the link and I have around a 1/2 inch of clearance between the bar and a bolt on the diff at the bottom (one of the carrier mounting bolts). It should be okay now. Sorry about the long post but I thought it was worth mentioning the rear bar having clearance issues, at least for me anyways. Also, I hope everyone is using a jack stand when going under if you have it raised with your leveling jacks. Probably be a couple of weeks before I get a chance to try it out and see the improvement you guys are talking about. Thanks,

Bill

Originally Posted by Horseshoe

I did it before my trip this past week. My bar hit the front springs when I used the factory links, so I ordered the adjustable ones that were suggested and put the bar in the same attitude it was before, but used the inner holes.

While I was doing the mod, I decided to add the Steer Safe also. It is the ugliest contraption I have ever seen and looks terrible under my coach, but I came home through 30 MPH headwinds and crosswinds around curves and bridges. I never swerved or moved out of the lane at all, even when being passed by semi's going much faster than I was. In my opinion this is a great modification. When I got home last night, I was not worn out from having to overdrive all of the way.

Again, I don't know if one or the other mod did the most good, but unless I look under the front of my Motorhome, I love it.

Any questions?

Haven't tried it yet, but I will post results in about a month when dune season starts.

[navychaps]

Ok, I did the fix using Hellwig 7962 adjustable end links.

I was able to keep the original angles by adjusting the links to the exact length needed.





I drove the rig for about 12 miles and the steering and lean seems to be tighter.




I will find out for sure how well this fix worked when I head out on my next trip.

[Dunner]

I could use another project. Could you tell me what the new on center eye-to-eye length is?

[navychaps]

Originally Posted by Dunner

I could use another project. Could you tell me what the new on center eye-to-eye length is?

Mine is at 11 1/2"

[Dunner]

I've got some spare chromoly up in the attic and could use some shock ends to make longer ones. Would it make a difference what make MH it is? It is the F53.

[navychaps]

Originally Posted by Dunner

I've got some spare chromoly up in the attic and could use some shock ends to make longer ones. Would it make a difference what make MH it is? It is the F53.

It is an F53 under a Winnebago V33. Doubt there would be a lot of difference beacuse of the rig as all the originals are the same length.

[Billieg]

Originally Posted by macnkat

Interesting, my Bounder had Steer Safe installed by the previous owner and this unit handles better than the 35' 2005 Pace Arrow we rented last year. I can't wait to try out the rest of this mod...Vegas bound in early October and that trip always has some winds to deal with so it should be a good test.

Don't wish to hijack the thread but check out your Steer Safe unit before you go and make sure it's adjusted right and is tight. I put one on my MH and loved it until I hit a few big bumps in the road in PA and BOTH sides of the SF unit blew apart sending the springs everywhere.

The bad part was the drivers side mount twisted into the brake plate and I couldn't turn the MH to the left. Took me hours on the side of the road to get that mount off so I could drive it. So be careful and check it out before you leave.....

[macnkat]

Originally Posted by Billieg

Don't wish to hijack the thread but check out your Steer Safe unit before you go and make sure it's adjusted right and is tight. I put one on my MH and loved it until I hit a few big bumps in the road in PA and BOTH sides of the SF unit blew apart sending the springs everywhere.

The bad part was the drivers side mount twisted into the brake plate and I couldn't turn the MH to the left. Took me hours on the side of the road to get that mount off so I could drive it. So be careful and check it out before you leave.....

Thanks Bill as long as I'm under I will check it out.