Cheap Handling Fix

[Rmblaster]

My extended links are 12 3/4 bolt to bolt and that puts the bar back to its original position

[TeJay]

Rmblaster, Good job. That looks just like my underneath except I think I can see some Koni looking shocks in the top pic. If so how do they ride????

I got my links back on and torqued. All is good. I guess what I've learned is every coach may be different enough that there is not a set length to extend the links. The best procedure would be to disconnect the bottom links, move the bar until it's level and measure.

TeJay

[Rmblaster]

Originally Posted by TeJay

Rmblaster, Good job. That looks just like my underneath except I think I can see some Koni looking shocks in the top pic. If so how do they ride????

I got my links back on and torqued. All is good. I guess what I've learned is every coach may be different enough that there is not a set length to extend the links. The best procedure would be to disconnect the bottom links, move the bar until it's level and measure.

TeJay

Good eye they are Koni shocks just put them on last month haven't tried them out yet so no report on ride yet

I had done the CHF last year , but I was not happy with the new angle of the sway bar by just using the original links besides lifting the front wheels off the ground so I decided it was time to lengthen them so basically I put the sway bar back in its original position and lengthened the links to fit

[Waiter21]

TeJay, Did you extend your links? how much?

[TeJay]

No I did not. I had already extended them some (about 2") but after all the discussion I wanted the SB to be closer to or level. When I took everything apart, leveled the bar it was very close to level. Considering the fact that the original rod was already cut and a 1/2" pipe slipped over then welded. I would have had to find another pipe to slip over the 1/2" pipe and again weld. Or remove the bushing ring holders and basically start over. That would have been OK but not worth it for 1/4" to 1/2" of extension.

I'm getting ready to post a 97 truck for sale on CL. When I sell it I'm going to get some of these: Koni's for the front, 5 Star Tune, Maybe air bags for the front or a new steering shock. We'll see.

TeJay

[RattVader]

Ok made it back safely from The World on Sunday. Overall the CHP for the front seemed to calm things somewhat. If I were to give it a % I would say it improved by 30%. The movement was still there when the semi's passed but not as pronounced. However once we hit Va. and the wind gusts started...WOW!! Like old times!! Definitely doing the back and I'm going to invest in the rear trac bar. I will be harassing you folks for destructions..er..directions on the rear sway bar CHP. Thanks Steve

[TeJay]

If you are interested check this link to the forums for information on how to build a TB.

TeJay

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/track...lt-242761.html

[Knightab]

Originally Posted by billre

I just did the CHF and Track Bar to a 2013 24K chassis on a Georgetown 360xl.
Yes it helps, but the front links/sway bar now hit something while driving. I did buy longer links, But the original links on this chassis are "S" shaped so the straight links when mounted are at an angle left to right and will not work without being metal on metal where there bolted into the swaybar.
Has anybody else run into this issue?
Thanks,
Bill

Bill, I have not seen anyone post anything about the S links. Can you post a picture of them if you still have them or if they are installed still on your coach a pic would be great. Surely someone has to of run across this. I think your post got buried before anyone who experienced it had time to respond.

[Disneyfix]

I had done the CHF worked great.
My ride developed the F53 front pass lean, had an additional spring added to the pass front.( as per Tiffin recommendation) Rig is a level as can be.
Problem....she handles exactly the same prior to doing the CHF.
Any suggestions? It's not soo much the steering left to right as it feels like being on a boat with a nice swell.

[Knightab]

Originally Posted by Disneyfix

I had done the CHF worked great.
My ride developed the F53 front pass lean, had an additional spring added to the pass front.( as per Tiffin recommendation) Rig is a level as can be.
Problem....she handles exactly the same prior to doing the CHF.
Any suggestions? It's not soo much the steering left to right as it feels like being on a boat with a nice swell.

Have you ever weighed the coach on all corners? Curious as to if you have excess weight being transfered. If it is swaying and the bar is still connected then I would think springs are tired. If this is a newer coach I would take to a spring shop and have it checked out. I added the Sumo Spring maxim's to try and prevent any additional swelling as you call it. Not cheap though about $600

[TeJay]

Somewhere someone posted pictures of some "S" sway bar links but I don't remember who or which thread. Take your new longer links Most any shop with a hydraulic press could bend your new links and put the necessary curves in place. As I recall the bends were not very severe. That would give you straighter hook up and no metal to metal rubbing.

The ends of the sway bars and the position of the link mounted at the top must not line up with the sway bar connection and that's why the link is "S" shaped. Should be corrected and not difficult to do or have done.

Yes some pics would help a lot.

TeJay,

[Magister54]

Count me in

While in the garage for oil/lubrification I asked the mechanic to change the sway bar link to the other hole, it took him less than 2 minutes, easy when you have all the tools to do it while under the motorhome!

I came back on the highway and there was a lot of wind, seems to handle fine.

[WBandJ]

Originally Posted by TeJay

Somewhere someone posted pictures of some "S" sway bar links but I don't remember who or which thread. TeJay,

The "S" link appeared in posts 2386 and 2387.



I seem to recall that someone extended the short section next to the bushing.

[TeJay]

Thanks WB, The mind is the second thing to go !!

TeJay