Cheap Handling Fix

[TeJay]

Originally Posted by psantana

My question; is this an effort in saving money on suspension improvements, or is there anything inherently wrong with those made by the likes Roadmaster or others who have products for this?

The answer is yes and no. The CHF was first tried while John McKinley ws in a CG in AK. He just was real tired of the sway looked at the extra hole in the SB (stabilizer Bars) and decided to move the link position to the inner hole. He was amazed at the improvement in the swat control.

When he got home he posted it on these forums and called it the CHF. So yes it is easy, cheap and works very well. It was not done to save $$$$ but it did. That's just what John called it the CHF.

That was in 2010 and to this day I have not read where anybody really had any issues with the FIX. Nothing has failed or broken. There were a lot of concerns and yes some improvements to the original FIX.

So after 6 years all is still well. Yes you can change SB's but as you know they are somewhat expensive. So the choice is yours.

TeJay

[jrbarber]

Originally Posted by psantana

My question; is this an effort in saving money on suspension improvements, or is there anything inherently wrong with those made by the likes Roadmaster or others who have products for this?

Yeah, I did it to save several dollars as well as the satisfaction of doing it myself.

As soon as we're home from our current trip, I plan on installing a rear panhard bar.

Travelling south on I-25 thru NM, we've fought some miserable winds the last couple of days but I've been amazed at the great handling response as we're being passed by the 18-wheelers. No darting for the other lane or ditch; instead a straight, steady track. Cannot say the same for gusting X-winds. You still need to be ready to react to those.

[atodalen]

I'm curious if there is a proper orientation when installing the Hellwig adjustable links, female end up or male end up? I'm thinking that with the female part on the top that there would be less chance of water entering and potential future rust issues. Am I overthinking this?

Al

[TeJay]

The exact orientation of the link will not matter much if at all.

TeJay

[Ted Lambert]

People who are able to do the CHF are lucky.
My SB is differant than what i see on this sight
1997 F53 with 460.
We just ran out of time to do anything for this season.
I am going with Front airbags in the meantime. To the tune of $600. So NCHF.
I was quoted $1000 dollars for new sway bar.
Oh well it is what it is! For now.

[TeJay]

narampa,

There's another guy on these forums who has I think the same set up. He also wants to do the CHF and I've got a way of doing that on your chassis. It will cost the price of some Helwig links but If I'm correct we can do it.

He will send me some pictures of his situation. What we can do is attach to your existing one holed SB a way of attaching some links from the SB to someplace on the frame and do the CHF from there.

If you are interested PM me your e-mail and some pictures after you get mine and I'll mock up a wooden set of plates like I think we can do and we'll see.

TeJay

[Rpwainc]

Originally Posted by TeJay

narampa,

There's another guy on these forums who has I think the same set up. He also wants to do the CHF and I've got a way of doing that on your chassis. It will cost the price of some Helwig links but If I'm correct we can do it.

He will send me some pictures of his situation. What we can do is attach to your existing one holed SB a way of attaching some links from the SB to someplace on the frame and do the CHF from there.

If you are interested PM me your e-mail and some pictures after you get mine and I'll mock up a wooden set of plates like I think we can do and we'll see.

TeJay

TeJay,
Please see the attached pics of my setup on my 2016 Tiffin Open Road after removing the bolts from the front SB rods. Do I need the extensions? I cannot move the SB up/down, apparently without loosing the bolts holding them on or using a jack. Your help is appreciated.

[TeJay]

The SB will move. It moves when it is working. Insert your link bolts into those two hole (one side) and using a long piece of wood as a lever with holes drilled 3" apart work the SB up and down while spraying some 303 Aerospace protectorate into the bushing area. You could also take the caps off and put some in as well. Make sure you use something that won't hurt the bushing.

Many RVrs have done the CHF and have never extended the links. It will work but common sense says that it will work more efficiently if they are extended. p the FIX and after you drive it I'm sure you'll like it well enough that you'll do the rear and may extend the fronts. The rear links will be good as they are.

If you take the SB caps off or even just loosen them to get some lube in there torque them to 66 ft/lbs. All those bolts are torqued to the same specs.

TeJay

[Rpwainc]

Thanks for your help. Got them to move up using neighbors bottle jack and got everything back together, including torque and blue Locktite. Would probably only need to extend 2" or so if I decide to. Who sells the extensions? I am thinking I will try this change first before doing the back ones? Your thoughts?
Thanks again

[2015terra]

c92vette
Member




Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 67


Hellwig makes adjustable links for the sway bar. P/N 7962. Google "Hellwig 7962" and you'll find a lot of websites selling the parts fro $80 to $110.

You must remove the center bushings from your old links in order for the new ones to fit. I also suggest new polyurethane bushings for the sway bar especially the rear. Those you can get on ebay by searching "Ford F53 Sway Bar Bushings".

Here's instructions on how to do this:
1. Park the coach on a level surface and remove the links. (Do not level with the coaches jacks)
2. Press out the bushings from both ends of the links. (easily done with a vise)
3. Press in the OEM bushings into the Hellwig links.
4. Set the length of the links to 12 3/4" hole center to center.
5. Install the new links to the chassis.
6. Jack the sway bar up to align the first link. (Note that one link hole will be lower than the other when you line up the sway bar to the links. Install this link first.
7. Then use the small jack to move the bar up and install the other link.
8. Support the center of the sway bar at the axle with the jack or blocks of wood.
9. Remove the saddle clamps around the sway bar bushings.
10. Using plenty of the included silicone grease install the new bushings on the sway bar. Install the saddle clamps on the new bushings.



Before CHF.



After CHF. Note reversing the Z Bracket and the new poly bushings. (I have no clue as to why the pic is upside down)

__________________
Steve n' Tammy with Ella Mae the "Shippet" in a 2003 Fleetwood Bounder 32' on a Ford F53 Chassis and a V-10 gasser pulling a 2013 Ford Edge on a EZE Tow Dolly

[TeJay]

Steve, Good post on the Hellwig adjustable links.

Your original links will have poly bushings. Unless there's a problem as long as they will switch to the Hellwigs you won't need new ones.

If the front CHF is successful why not do the rear. What most don't seem to understand is any suspension, ride and handling MODS or improvements all work together to do just that, improve the overall ride and handling (R&H).

Just one example would be shocks. Their primary purpose is to reduce/dampen spring oscillations from road bumps and dips. What happens to the shocks when a wind gust rocks the coach??? The spring compresses and the shocks compress and dampen the sway movement. There will be carry over between these parts.

When the CHF is employed on the rear it reduces the semi wind effect which is sway and coach lateral movement. Lateral movement is specifically controlled by a rear track bar (TB). You already have a front track bar installed from the factory.

Do the CHF front and rear. The rears will not need extended.

TeJay

[jmckinley]

2015terra forgot Step 11 of the Cheap Handling Fix.

(11) To express your undying gratitude, send generous check or other nice gift to the CHF Inventor.

John McKinley
Genius Inventor, CHF

[Rpwainc]

THANKS all and I nominate John M. for President . Seriously, thanks John

[jmckinley]

Thanks rpwainc, I'm glad the CHF worked for you.

Regarding presidential nomination, I'm pretty sure I don't want the job. In fact, my theory is that anyone who is smart enough to make us a great President is too smart to take the job.