Community Forums

TeJay · 06-14-2016, 03:44 PM

Don you are very welcome. Setting here following foot surgery (6-weeks) I feel almost useless except for giving some advice on the forums.

Glad you enjoyed the drive. Before retirement and with limited traveling time I always felt that my vacation began when my butt hit the RV seat and the drive began.

Now that we are on vacation all the time I still feel that way. It's the journey and the destination now.

Thanks,
TeJay

pfritz · 06-14-2016, 09:17 PM

Absolutely the handling, and ride has changed. I can take wind gusts to 50 and barely notice, 70 mph ( going down hills ) no problem. But when you drive certain roads, the ride is bad and bumpy. West Texas I-10, Those cement LA I-10 roads, even the 93 after the Hover Dam bridge turns into a rut attack all the way to Kingman. If you live in a state that has decent road it is not an issue. I-40 was a rattle trap last year but now has been paved mostly.I just bought some sumo spring helper things, I hope they take some of the pounding out. Even driving thru Rt 66 in Willams, AZ at a couple miles per hour the road was a mess, there was "strips" ruts, across very 10 feet or so, like they ran a line across the road and patched the rut. NOW, I did the CHF and rear trac bar early on so it could be the rig was like this to begin with, but as soon as I did the front and drive 3 feet I could tell the difference. I have found air pressure can make a big difference as well in the ride factor. I did put in extended links because when my jacks are in full play the front wheels are off the ground and the spring was jamming into the sway bar at that position. All said I would rather put up with the crappy ride on crappy roads then the crappy handing on all, roads without the fix.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeJay

pfritz,

From your post above it sounds like you did the CHF but noticed a harsher ride?? Many of us who have been on this thread for some time have only read of a few posters who have reported any harshness increase in the ride.

Actually a few days ago I was e-mailing back and forth with John McKinley (the CHF inventer) and we agreed that very few have reported any harshness.

First off I realize the many, many differences in coaches so the next statement can not be a fix for ALL coaches with the CHF. Also when the CHF is employed on the rear the link angle does not change near the same amount as when the front is done. So this idea will/may not apply to the rear change. That said:

IMHO I'm still thinking if the CHF is done on the fronts with no link extensions and if the SB bushings are not lubed with poly lube the straighter angle between the SB and link end may cause the sway forces to compress the link bushings more than twisting the SB on initial impact.

This example might help. If I am trying to remove a stubborn nut and bolt and as I begin to apply forces I realize my ratchet is not at a good (90 degree) angle the force that I'm applying is not being applied efficiently. So I change the ratchet angle and it works.

With the CHF the forces are pushing down on the SB and the straighter the angle more energy is being used compressing the link bushing instead of twisting the SB.

The straighter the link and SB angle the less efficiently the forces are being used to twist the SB instead they compress the bushing. That MAY, I say MAY be where some harshness is being felt.

I never felt any because I extended my links. Also when I took my SB brackets off the axle there was no lube on those bushings from the factory. I'm going to correct that today since it's stopped raining.

TeJay

marvsi12 · 06-20-2016, 03:53 PM

I have a 2015 Bounder 34T on a 2014 chassis. I just had a steering stabilizer put on. If I do the CHF will I need to have any readjustment done to the stabilizer? I have a 2000 mile trip coming up and really need this thing to handle better. I want to add a rear trac bar later.

jmckinley · 06-20-2016, 06:01 PM

No need to do anything to the steering stabilizer. Just go on and do the CHF. It's free and takes 30 minutes. You'll be glad you did it.

georgelesley · 06-30-2016, 10:47 AM

I looked at our sway bars with the idea of doing the chf on our 2014 Itasca on a F53, the rear looks just like the rear on the you tube video. The front looks a bit different with the inner hole being a hard stretch for the link to attach to. Is this where the extender brackets I have read about here come in.? And when I take both ends of the SB loose, if the link will not reach is reattaching the link to the SB easy?

TeJay · 06-30-2016, 11:21 AM

george,

You can do the rear CHF with no issues and no extension of the rear links.

The front is slightly different. When the links are detached from the SB (stabilizer bar) the SB will have to be moved up so the links will reach.

There is only one issue if you don't choose to extend the front links. When leveling your coach if the front has to be raised to much the wheels will come off the ground sooner. Not really a problem but if that bothers you then extend the links about 2-1/2". I did and it cost me $45 at a shop.

Is it easy to attach the links?? If you can work a ratchet and torque the bolts to 66 ft lbs then it's easy. Also use some blue lick tight as added insurance.

TeJay

ga80486 · 06-30-2016, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeJay

george,

You can do the rear CHF with no issues and no extension of the rear links.

The front is slightly different. When the links are detached from the SB (stabilizer bar) the SB will have to be moved up so the links will reach.

There is only one issue if you don't choose to extend the front links. When leveling your coach if the front has to be raised to much the wheels will come off the ground sooner. Not really a problem but if that bothers you then extend the links about 2-1/2". I did and it cost me $45 at a shop.

Is it easy to attach the links?? If you can work a ratchet and torque the bolts to 66 ft lbs then it's easy. Also use some blue lick tight as added insurance.

TeJay

Just don't get any blue lick tight on your lips.

I did the brackets and it cost me $66 plus bolts. I fitted and painted them last night and tonight I'll install them. Pics to follow, so stay tuned. I'm not so sure I'm gonna use the lick tight though...

TeJay · 06-30-2016, 03:32 PM

George,

You're lucky you've never made any typo's before. Right?? If you tell me you haven't I will believe you. Sure!!! So give me a C- for the post.

TeJay

georgelesley · 07-01-2016, 06:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeJay

George,

You're lucky you've never made any typo's before. Right?? If you tell me you haven't I will believe you. Sure!!! So give me a C- for the post.

TeJay

You get an A+ for the post. Thanks!

sherman53 · 07-01-2016, 07:17 AM

After reading a lot of these threads I just did the CHF on the front of my 2016 bounder which by the way was the worst driving coach I have ever driven. I only did the front and in my opinion it is much better I was able to finally drive 65 mph without a constant battle with the steering wheel back and forth. It still sways with the toad but not as bad, I now wonder if I should do the rear CHF, any suggestions ???

twinboat · 07-01-2016, 08:30 AM

If you are doing it yourself, you have nothing to loose but 20 minutes of time. If it don't work out, another 20 minutes and it's undone.

If I was paying someone, I would still do it.

TeJay · 07-01-2016, 01:59 PM

sherman,

Why the question even?? If the fronts helped with the sway don't you think it will help with the TOAD sway on the rear???

The CHF is the best no money you'll spend.

TeJay

computerguy · 07-05-2016, 11:11 AM

TeJay · 07-05-2016, 02:16 PM

computerguy,

Nice pictures. Is there a comment or a question that you need answered?? Currently the sway control front and rear is set to stock.

TeJay