Community Forums

JerryP · 08-26-2016, 11:20 AM

Hudsoner:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hudsoner

While installing the Sumo Maxine springs in the front of my motorhome, my son had to loosen the sway bar to get enough axle drop for getting the Sumo's in.
At that time he checked for the brackets, and everything was OK, but he discovered that the sway bar in the CHF hits the springs. Because of this he undid the CHF in the front.

It looks like as if we have to fabricate those fancy brackets to position the sway bar into the right location.
But first things first. First is to go out to Califonia and Oregon, and once I am back I know how the Sumo's perform and we also can start the bracket fabrication.

The brackets will give you an adjustable CHF, but just extending the front links to 12 3/4" seems to work too. Either way should get the sway bar off the springs. I posted some pictures a few pages back of my extended links(Post #3915).

Regards, Jerry

joes2901 · 08-26-2016, 01:41 PM

Redlands Truck and RV recommended a Roadmaster Polyurethane Bushing Kit for Ford F-53 (Rear), part # 4139-300, as a cure for breaking swaybar brackets. The brackets are beefier than the OEM ones and I had them installed yesterday so I would not have to deal with lost bolts or broken brackets anymore. Check them out on Roadmaster's web site.

Hudsoner · 08-26-2016, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JerryP

Hudsoner:

The brackets will give you an adjustable CHF, but just extending the front links to 12 3/4" seems to work too. Either way should get the sway bar off the springs. I posted some pictures a few pages back of my extended links(Post #3915).

Regards, Jerry

Thanks, I did show them to my son and he said that it will be no problem to produce them (he has the materials and the tools to do light manufacturing)

jets · 08-31-2016, 01:29 PM

I have just done the CHF front and rear on my 2014 Thor ACE 30.1 and , as advertised, WOW! A question though: I moved the bar ends with a jack to get alignment with the inner holes for the links but should I have temporarily loosened the SB bracket bolts to allow movement for the whole bar at that time rather than just tensioning the bar ends? Have I significantly increased the stress on the brackets ?

TeJay · 08-31-2016, 02:08 PM

If the link ends don't move easily it's not a big issue. Consider what you have. A link is bolted onto the frame. There is a bushing (POLY) and a center sleeve around the bolt. When the bolt is tightened down to 66 ft/lbs there's enough pressure so the link won't turn on the bushing. My guess is when it gets used some the bushing will simply adjust to it's new position relieving any tension that's there. I'd bet if you disconnected the SB end the bushing would stay right where it is.

As far as any tension. There is tension only when the coach is leaning. One end twists up and the other twists down placing some twisting tension on the SB. That tension is what reduces the coach sway. If you disconnected the SB ends while in that leaning position the coach would lean more.

If you feel troubled just loosen the top link bolts slightly and relieve any tension that might be there. Then re-torque them.

jets · 08-31-2016, 04:48 PM

Thanks. Actually I was thinking about the brackets holding the SB to the axle. Perhaps I should have loosened those bolts to allow the whole bar to rotate slightly and not just the bar ends. Maybe it's no different than your point about the top link bolts, though.

twinboat · 08-31-2016, 05:27 PM

There won't be a problem with pushing the bar up, inside the bushings, with a jack.

Any time the front of the MH bounces, up or down, the anti-sway bar turns in the bushings, clamped to the axle.

The bar has no function in the level up and down motion of the chassis. It only hinders the right to left swaying motion of it.

TeJay · 08-31-2016, 06:29 PM

When I was teaching I always had several ways of explaining concepts/ideas to my classes. Some see things correctly with one explanation and others needed a different approach.

Think of the SB the short lever arm and the bushings holding it to the front axle.

I'm sure you have used a 1/2" drive ratchet and extension to remove a nut. You grab the ratchet handle at the end and then what do you do?? You have to support everything so it will rotate. Using your free hand you grab the extension where it fits onto the ratchet and grip it with your fingers providing a stable or stationary pivot point for the extension to rotate. That's exactly what the bushing do.

And I'll add that all should lubricate those POLY pivot bushings so the SB WILL move more freely when both links are detached.

Hudsoner · 08-31-2016, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeJay

When I was teaching I always had several ways of explaining concepts/ideas to my classes. Some see things correctly with one explanation and others needed a different approach.

.

That is exactly what my wife told her students (she taught in teacher education), there are seven learning intelligences, and a good teacher addresses each one of them.

BBorgo · 09-01-2016, 03:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeJay

When I was teaching I always had several ways of explaining concepts/ideas to my classes. Some see things correctly with one explanation and others needed a different approach.

Think of the SB the short lever arm and the bushings holding it to the front axle.

I'm sure you have used a 1/2" drive ratchet and extension to remove a nut. You grab the ratchet handle at the end and then what do you do?? You have to support everything so it will rotate. Using your free hand you grab the extension where it fits onto the ratchet and grip it with your fingers providing a stable or stationary pivot point for the extension to rotate. That's exactly what the bushing do.

And I'll add that all should lubricate those POLY pivot bushings so the SB WILL move more freely when both links are detached.

I am curious as to what lube to use for the polyurethane bushings. I have read that petro based grease will deteriorate polyurethane...?
I am using Royal Purple synthetic grease for the front end of my Canyon Star, would a synthetic like RP be a good one to use on polyurethane?

Bob

harleyjt · 09-01-2016, 06:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slsbl77

I am curious as to what lube to use for the polyurethane bushings. I have read that petro based grease will deteriorate polyurethane...?

I am using Royal Purple synthetic grease for the front end of my Canyon Star, would a synthetic like RP be a good one to use on polyurethane?

Bob

I would use a silicone lube such as Sil-Glyde. It's available from NAPA.

TeJay · 09-01-2016, 06:55 AM

This is what I ordered thru Amazon.com

"Energy Suspension Lubricant."

It was a good price compared to others that were sold in a small tube so I had to buy a small grease gun to go with it. I just took the brackets off and the bushing was split on the back so it just came off.

It's specific for polyurethane bushings and therefore won't harm them. It only has to be used maybe once every 5-10 years.

computerguy · 09-01-2016, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeJay

This is what I ordered thru Amazon.com

"Energy Suspension Lubricant."

It was a good price compared to others that were sold in a small tube so I had to buy a small grease gun to go with it. I just took the brackets off and the bushing was split on the back so it just came off.

It's specific for polyurethane bushings and therefore won't harm them. It only has to be used maybe once every 5-10 years.

TeJay that link didn't bring up anything specific.
Here is what I found in small quantities as I won't need it again for a few years

:

"Amazon - Energy Suspension Lubricant tube"

Just go it it and CHF is on the list for this weekend (maybe, if it stops raining and not too hot)

TeJay · 09-01-2016, 10:47 AM

Yep that's the same stuff. Use gloves cause it is sticky and lot different from standard types of lubricants.

I got the big tub. I'll share it with some friends when i do their CHF.