Community Forums

TeJay · 12-30-2016, 10:02 AM

04fxsts,

Not only are there two holes on both the front and rear SB's (anti-sway bars) that has been true since the first F-53 came off the line in 1999. That's 17 years of drilling (or punching) 4 extra holes in all those F-53 chassis. That's a lot of wasted time & spent $$$$$$ for no apparent reason.

The addition of 4 extra holes is not something most manufacturers would add unless they intended those holes to be used if and when it were deemed needed or necessary.

JerryP · 12-30-2016, 10:23 PM

Before I did the CHF, I called the Ford Motorhome support line to ask if there would be any warranty issue if I moved the SB links to the other set of holes. They said that there would be no problem in doing this and it would NOT be a warranty problem.

Regards, Jerry

TeJay · 12-31-2016, 07:23 PM

It's good to repeat what Ford has said. That question has been asked of ford and answered. I guess others just don't believe what has been said several times before. Oh, well!!!!

Tsfishin · 01-07-2017, 08:11 AM

In order to align the holes in the sway bar doing the CHF, where exactly do you place a bottle jack? I added a roadmaster front sway bar, steering stabilizer and would like to see what added difference I could accomplish. Also pertaining to the rear, after spending to much on a rear sway bar and just finding out that I purchased the wrong one and can't return, roadmasters instructions on buying this particular bar were not true for my coach. Is there a big difference doing the CHF to the rear? I now have a roadmaster 1139-144 that I can't use

TeJay · 01-07-2017, 06:30 PM

If you are slightly off level or if the SB is a bit twisted then here's what to do. One side will usually be lower than the other. So install your bolt on the high side then use a bottle jack, or even a 2X4 to just pry the low side up to install that bolt.

I've added some plates so I can make adjustments as I feel it is needed. I can usually do it in about 10 minutes with only a small pry bar that i keep with me.

Yes you will always feel a difference anytime you increase your sway control. That's a given. Doing the second one may not be as significant change but it's there.

We have over 20,000 miles on the coach and not one issue with the CHF. I did the CHF when it only had 40 miles on it. Nothing has worn out or through. Nothing has broken or bent and nothing has fallen off.

Well we have had a few SB bracket bolts come loose but that has happened to several owners even when the CHF has not been employed. So we don't even need to go down that road.

chboone · 01-07-2017, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tsfishin

In order to align the holes in the sway bar doing the CHF, where exactly do you place a bottle jack? I added a roadmaster front sway bar, steering stabilizer and would like to see what added difference I could accomplish. Also pertaining to the rear, after spending to much on a rear sway bar and just finding out that I purchased the wrong one and can't return, roadmasters instructions on buying this particular bar were not true for my coach. Is there a big difference doing the CHF to the rear? I now have a roadmaster 1139-144 that I can't use

Just curious why the 1139-144 won't fit? Roadmaster says it will fit a 2017. I installed 1139-144 1-3/4" bar on my 99 what a world of difference in handling. I bought mine from etrailer.com

Whlsdn · 01-08-2017, 04:34 AM

This is a long thread, and members late to the party will find it impossible to uncover all the info already stated, so worn-out questions will be asked. I did it, and I mightily appreciate those who guided me through this most valuable of chassis modifications. As straight-forward as it is for people who readily understand such things, I admit I did stumble, but the job came out perfect in the end...with extra help. And as the title of the thread reveals, it's a no-cost to low-cost mod, depending upon how simple/flexible you want it to be on your RV.

A key piece of my success, I believe, is TeJay's custom designed plates for a flexible installation on the front anti-sway bar. I copied his instructions pretty closely, beginning with a plywood template to take to a weld shop. I had 2 sets of the steel plates made just in case. Once I ground, polished, and painted one set of plates, put them on reversed, posted photos and was coached to reinstall them properly oriented, they have worked exactly as the originators of this idea intended. Big improvement...for my 27' Itasca Sunstar, at least.

I sold my second set of plates for cost to another member who liked TeJay's design. But I can offer someone another short-cut to their own set of plates, if someone is interested. I'll send you my plywood template, complete with hand-printed details and suggestions. Not exactly professional, but it worked for my welder. Just PM me your address and promise me you'll make the same offer once you have your own plates made. Keep the good stuff going!

Tsfishin · 01-08-2017, 05:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeJay

If you are slightly off level or if the SB is a bit twisted then here's what to do. One side will usually be lower than the other. So install your bolt on the high side then use a bottle jack, or even a 2X4 to just pry the low side up to install that bolt.

I've added some plates so I can make adjustments as I feel it is needed. I can usually do it in about 10 minutes with only a small pry bar that i keep with me.

Yes you will always feel a difference anytime you increase your sway control. That's a given. Doing the second one may not be as significant change but it's there.

We have over 20,000 miles on the coach and not one issue with the CHF. I did the CHF when it only had 40 miles on it. Nothing has worn out or through. Nothing has broken or bent and nothing has fallen off.

Well we have had a few SB bracket bolts come loose but that has happened to several owners even when the CHF has not been employed. So we don't even need to go down that road.

Thanks Tejay

Tsfishin · 01-08-2017, 06:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chboone

Just curious why the 1139-144 won't fit? Roadmaster says it will fit a 2017. I installed 1139-144 1-3/4" bar on my 99 what a world of difference in handling. I bought mine from etrailer.com

CHBOONE
The problem with the Roadmaster 1139-144 on my new coach was the the SB lined up perfectly where the stock SB is, which is not to be removed. As you stated in your message per the instructions and application, the 1139-144 is suppose to work. BUT not with the chassis that have the two hole plate beneath the shock mount, which Roadmaster fails to put in application guide. So long story short if your coach has the two hole plate beneath the lower rear shock mounts, you are to use SB 1139-145 which is also smaller in diameter. I will update when I reverse the one I bought and see if it all lines up to make it usable

TeJay · 01-08-2017, 08:48 AM

Whlsdn,

Thanks for the above post. Yes this is a long thread and most don't want to take the time to read it all and i guess i don' blame them. I've read it a few times but when I do it's just an interesting trip down memory lane. I may not read every post but skimming the pictures and ideas doe remind me of a lot of good information and discussions over the past 6+ years.

Last summer on our way to ME we made a stop and met John McKinley (he came up with the CHF idea) and his DW in Dayton, OH and spent a very enjoyable two days with them. John is a very knowledgeable and talented guy. I wish we lived closer but I'm sure we will again arrange some time to visit again.

Glad the wooden plate idea worked well for you. That's a great idea to share them with others.

chboone · 01-08-2017, 09:15 AM

Tsfishin,
Thank you for the explanation. I had to cut one corner of Roadmasters mounting plate on the right side because it was touching the brake caliper. Called Roadmaster they said they never seen that problem before.

z3406 · 01-08-2017, 10:15 AM

FWIW
During the summer when my coach was at the Fleetwood service center in Decatur Indiana they put it on the alignment rack. While on the rack they found the drivers side rear sway bar bracket missing. They took the coach to the local Ford dealer and the Ford dealer did the bracket repair under warranty. The coach had the CHF applied and it was never an issue with Ford or Fleetwood.

Dcbenny · 01-08-2017, 01:07 PM

First trip with CHF definite improvement with "rolling" much more comfortable eve DW noticed as far as handling we will see driving in 15mph winds and higher gust. Did have a clunk or two when driving slow on a big dip will check out in AM might just need a good lube

Hudsoner · 01-08-2017, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dcbenny

First trip with CHF definite improvement with "rolling" much more comfortable eve DW noticed as far as handling we will see driving in 15mph winds and higher gust. Did have a clunk or two when driving slow on a big dip will check out in AM might just need a good lube

You could have the same problem as I had with my Hurricane. My son (a Ford mechanic) found that the sway bar link hits the springs under certain driving conditions when the CHF is applied. He took the CHF off again. But now I have the Tejay developed plates installed, together with the CHF , and have no problems anymore.
I also have Sumo Maxim springs in front and a Tiger Track track bar in the rear. I now believe my coach handles as good as it gets. Passing trucks are absolutely no reason any more to put two hands on the steering wheel.

I am now dedicated in finding ways to eliminate the harsh ride that my unit has when driving over bad roads. But that has to wait until summer comes because my motorhome is now having it' well deserved inter rest!