Cheap Handling Fix

[Whlsdn]

Originally Posted by Whlsdn

This is a long thread, and members late to the party will find it impossible to uncover all the info already stated, so worn-out questions will be asked. I did it, and I mightily appreciate those who guided me through this most valuable of chassis modifications. As straight-forward as it is for people who readily understand such things, I admit I did stumble, but the job came out perfect in the end...with extra help. And as the title of the thread reveals, it's a no-cost to low-cost mod, depending upon how simple/flexible you want it to be on your RV.

A key piece of my success, I believe, is TeJay's custom designed plates for a flexible installation on the front anti-sway bar. I copied his instructions pretty closely, beginning with a plywood template to take to a weld shop. I had 2 sets of the steel plates made just in case. Once I ground, polished, and painted one set of plates, put them on reversed, posted photos and was coached to reinstall them properly oriented, they have worked exactly as the originators of this idea intended. Big improvement...for my 27' Itasca Sunstar, at least.

I sold my second set of plates for cost to another member who liked TeJay's design. But I can offer someone another short-cut to their own set of plates, if someone is interested. I'll send you my plywood template, complete with hand-printed details and suggestions. Not exactly professional, but it worked for my welder. Just PM me your address and promise me you'll make the same offer once you have your own plates made. Keep the good stuff going!

My plywood "TeJay" template is in the mail to Tim! No longer available here!

[C-Leigh Racing]

Good Lord, 4159 post, this is probably the longest running thread on any site on the net.
Was a close runner though on RV.Net, on the Champion generator.
Neil

[Dcbenny]

Originally Posted by Hudsoner

You could have the same problem as I had with my Hurricane. My son (a Ford mechanic) found that the sway bar link hits the springs under certain driving conditions when the CHF is applied. He took the CHF off again. But now I have the Tejay developed plates installed, together with the CHF , and have no problems anymore.
I also have Sumo Maxim springs in front and a Tiger Track track bar in the rear. I now believe my coach handles as good as it gets. Passing trucks are absolutely no reason any more to put two hands on the steering wheel.

I am now dedicated in finding ways to eliminate the harsh ride that my unit has when driving over bad roads. But that has to wait until summer comes because my motorhome is now having it' well deserved inter rest!

Thanks for the feed back after I return home from this trip I will probably take it back to The truck repair shop and have it undone to bad it drive much better

[Hudsoner]

Originally Posted by Dcbenny

Thanks for the feed back after I return home from this trip I will probably take it back to The truck repair shop and have it undone to bad it drive much better

You could contact Tejay and see if he can help you with drawings for those plates I installed. It should not be a big problem for a local fab shop to make them, and for a repair shop to install them.

[TeJay]

Dcbenny,

most often when the CHF is done and some clunking results it is usually due to some incorrect torquing either on the link and SB ends or perhaps those SB brackets have come loose. I'd highly recommend that all those attaching bolts be torqued and blue or red lock tight added so they will not come loose.

In every case of clunking that fixed it. The CHF is to simple and sooo effective it would be a shame to remove it for some clunking that can be corrected.

[Dcbenny]

Originally Posted by TeJay

Dcbenny,

most often when the CHF is done and some clunking results it is usually due to some incorrect torquing either on the link and SB ends or perhaps those SB brackets have come loose. I'd highly recommend that all those attaching bolts be torqued and blue or red lock tight added so they will not come loose.

In every case of clunking that fixed it. The CHF is to simple and sooo effective it would be a shame to remove it for some clunking that can be corrected.

TeJay thans for the input i will check with my truck repair shop next week i hope that's what it is as the coach drives too good now to have to undo thanks Don

[pfritz]

I have done almost the same things to my Hurricane 27k, except I used Helwig links. The harsh ride seems to be best controled with tire pressure. I like to have higher then recomended for long trips in the summer but putting them to the PSI on the sticker inside does make it ride better. Mine calls for 82 PSI. I run 95 in the summer on long trips, it is noticably harder ride with the higher air pressure.

Originally Posted by Hudsoner

You could have the same problem as I had with my Hurricane. My son (a Ford mechanic) found that the sway bar link hits the springs under certain driving conditions when the CHF is applied. He took the CHF off again. But now I have the Tejay developed plates installed, together with the CHF , and have no problems anymore.
I also have Sumo Maxim springs in front and a Tiger Track track bar in the rear. I now believe my coach handles as good as it gets. Passing trucks are absolutely no reason any more to put two hands on the steering wheel.

I am now dedicated in finding ways to eliminate the harsh ride that my unit has when driving over bad roads. But that has to wait until summer comes because my motorhome is now having it' well deserved inter rest!

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by pfritz

I have done almost the same things to my Hurricane 27k, except I used Helwig links. The harsh ride seems to be best controled with tire pressure. I like to have higher then recomended for long trips in the summer but putting them to the PSI on the sticker inside does make it ride better. Mine calls for 82 PSI. I run 95 in the summer on long trips, it is noticably harder ride with the higher air pressure.

If the sticker says 82 PSI, that is to carry the maximum load of the axle.

Why would you run 95 PSI in summer ?

[Hudsoner]

Originally Posted by twinboat

If the sticker says 82 PSI, that is to carry the maximum load of the axle.

Why would you run 95 PSI in summer ?

I also wonder. I reduce mine to 75 PSI when not heavy loaded. All motorhome suspension and steering components ere laid out for the max pressure that is displayed on the sticker.

[TeJay]

We have over 20,000 miles on the coach. After about 2 months of chasing tire pressures I finally settled in on what the manufacturers sticker recommended which was 82 lbs. I'd say those tires have close to 18,000 miles with no signs of improper tire pressures.

It's probably advisable for me to get the coach weighed to determine the front and rear axle weights. It is almost impossible to get a 4 corner weigh around here so I'd have to settle on front axle, full weight then rear axle at the local CAT Scale. Then adjust the pressures accordingly.

[Hudsoner]

Originally Posted by TeJay

We have over 20,000 miles on the coach. After about 2 months of chasing tire pressures I finally settled in on what the manufacturers sticker recommended which was 82 lbs. I'd say those tires have close to 18,000 miles with no signs of improper tire pressures.

It's probably advisable for me to get the coach weighed to determine the front and rear axle weights. It is almost impossible to get a 4 corner weigh around here so I'd have to settle on front axle, full weight then rear axle at the local CAT Scale. Then adjust the pressures accordingly.

I will do it the same way, once the snow allows me to get my unit onto the road again, and my front end weight is installed.
My motorhome came with a front trailer hitch from the factory, but the build sheet does not mention this. I wonder whether the did install it in lieu of a front bumper??? Anyway, my several 100 pounds of steel are welted to this hitch and it has now to be reinstalled (I will weight it first to have an exact number).

[Kennest6]

I also played with pressures starting high 90's as set by alignment mechanics to tire spec, then decreasing till MH sticker 80's. Settled on 86 so as to take account for expansion/contraction and not to allow under inflation. I prefer higher pressure for handling but trimmed back for less harsh hitting. I'd stay away from Below Spec. Pressures to avoid disaster,(Ford Explorer...),as MH's are all about size and weight. IMHO

[wildtoad]

Should we get back to CHF topic? ;-))

[twinboat]

Changing air pressure is pretty cheap and sure can fix some handling problems.