Community Forums

pfritz · 02-13-2017, 07:27 PM

I think is it great someone is willing to build brackets for this mod, as opposed to putting on Helwig links. That said, the links are close to $80, so Mr. Tejay price the product the same, leaves you a little more for error and those that need them will be thrilled they can get them, a win win. Good luck with the plates and orders, thenks for helping the cuase along.
Peter

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeJay

bluegiller,

Thanks for the interest. I do understand how different browsers might be something but this makes no sense.

If I hit the blue line that says "Cheap Handling Fix" on post 4214 from EdinArk it won't work.
If I do the same on Mr MudStuds post 4216 it goes right to the page and post.

If it works on one and not the other I'd believe that leaves out the browser or blockers and points to how it was posted or set up to post.

As far as the plates after I figure in materials, shipping and time then charge $40 there's really not much profit. It might buy me a six pack.

I'll even drill the holes if the buyer does not have access to a drill press. As I've stated before. I built my rear track bar (TB) for about $50 and they sell them for $400 and $500 or more. I'm still amazed. Mine is built out of 1/2" plate and most use 3/8".

I just like to help folks when I can. This spring is not good or I'd offer to build some sets. With three operations over the last 8 months I've gotten a bit behind. I've got some honey do's that just got to get done.

I've got the TOAD base plate done and mounted. We have our first outing the early in March and I've got to wire the TOAD. The weather has to get a bit nicer as well.

halfprice · 02-15-2017, 10:00 AM

I got my metal plates for the brackets yesterday. Hopefully this weekend ill be able to take them to my friend so he can weld them

I know ill need to buy 4 new 12mm mounting bolts. How long should the bolts be. 2" ???? Just asking in case someone knows the size. Kind of lazy today and dont feel like crawling under the mh

TeJay · 02-15-2017, 12:53 PM

Actually the few sets that I have made were $40 and that included shipping, and 1-set of 2 plates pre-drilled for the SB.

Paulers · 02-15-2017, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by halfprice

I got my metal plates for the brackets yesterday.

Did you buy 1/2" thick by 3" wide bar stock? I need to make a couple sets

halfprice · 02-16-2017, 10:33 PM

I have a metal recycle center close by. Unfortunately they didnt have any recycled stuff that would work. They also have new product also. Told the guy what i wanted to make and showed him the pic that TeJay posted with the dimensions

In 1/2" he had 3"-4" and 6" only so i got the 3" and 4" he cut each piece 5 1/2" long per TeJay. The cost was $20. i didnt extend the arms so i was following TeJays advise to go 7" total. This should work.

Jerry

EdInArk · 02-20-2017, 01:20 PM

Help!!

I'm doing the CHF today, and I have a question on the rears. The bushings on the upper end of the back links are so tight they won't rotate. I could force them, but I feel that's a bad idea. Feedback would be nice.

I know I could loosen the mounting bolt on the frame enough to rotate them, but it'd require a deep 18-mm socket, which I don't have and may be hard to find.

Here's the question. If I go ahead and force it back, flexing the rubber bushing, will that hurt anything until I can round up an 18-mm deep socket to loosen that bracket enough to let it relax?

Thx

Floridakamper · 02-20-2017, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EdInArk

Help!!

The bushings on the upper end of the back links are so tight they won't rotate. I could force them, but I feel that's a bad idea. Feedback would be nice.

I recently did mine and had the same issue on the front and rears. I DID force them but have concerns about doing it that way. Like the OP I"m anxious to hear if this an issue.

LarryJB · 02-20-2017, 02:31 PM

luckily I did not have that trouble, but mine is a new coach only 3000 miles on it.
However, just about any auto parts store will have that 18mm deep socket.

TeJay · 02-20-2017, 03:11 PM

I've had that issue and just loosened the top bolt. Will it do any damage to force it??? Don't know for sure. Knowing exactly what is going on if you did that I really doubt it'd do any harm. Would I do it??? No!! I'd just get the socket because you'll probably need it at some point in dealing with the RV.

Those bushings are made from polyurethane and are very tough. I'd move them now and fix it later.

Even a HF socket will work for these type of things. High quality stuff is good if you're earning your living but for this stuff I get the cheap ones as well.

Floridakamper · 02-20-2017, 03:26 PM

When I started the fronts I did loosen the passenger side top. It was difficult to get a wrench on it but I'm certain I loosened it, maybe not enough because the link/arm/rod still had to be forced to the rear. I tightened it up and didn't even try the driver's side or the rear. Maybe I'll take another crack at it.

EdInArk · 02-20-2017, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Floridakamper

I recently did mine and had the same issue on the front and rears. I DID force them but have concerns about doing it that way. Like the OP I"m anxious to hear if this an issue.

It turned out that the bolt that was pressed into the Z-bracket was into the sleeve in the bushing far enough to sort of lock it in place. I loosed it and the top bolt on the Z-bracket on the frame and it broke loose easily enough.

Quote:

Originally Posted by LarryJB

luckily I did not have that trouble, but mine is a new coach only 3000 miles on it.
However, just about any auto parts store will have that 18mm deep socket.

Ah, well, there you go. Mine's all the way up to 3300 miles

You're right about the socket. I've been messing with metric motorcycles for 50 years and don't recall ever using an 18mm. I called Auto Zone, and they had them in stock.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeJay

I've had that issue and just loosened the top bolt. Will it do any damage to force it??? Don't know for sure. Knowing exactly what is going on if you did that I really doubt it'd do any harm. Would I do it??? No!! I'd just get the socket because you'll probably need it at some point in dealing with the RV.

Those bushings are made from polyurethane and are very tough. I'd move them now and fix it later.

Even a HF socket will work for these type of things. High quality stuff is good if you're earning your living but for this stuff I get the cheap ones as well.

True on the socket. The $6 at AutoZone worked just fine and came with a lifetime guarantee. I wasn't worried about the cost. I was worried about finding one quickly so I could finish the job before it rained. I barely made it. It was sprinkling as I gathered my tools.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Floridakamper

When I started the fronts I did loosen the passenger side top. It was difficult to get a wrench on it but I'm certain I loosened it, maybe not enough because the link/arm/rod still had to be forced to the rear. I tightened it up and didn't even try the driver's side or the rear. Maybe I'll take another crack at it.

Fronts went well. It took me longer to get it up safely on blocks than it did to move them. It was the rear that I'd have to force into place. See response to Floridakamper above. I just loosened both nuts a couple of turns and pulled. It let go and I was able to place it easily where I wanted it.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Bottom line: it's all done. I just used the stock links for now. I took it for about a 10 mile drive on the country roads I love on, and it does feel more stable and secure. We'll know more after our next trip.

soonerdave · 02-20-2017, 04:08 PM

Had the same problem with mine. Generous use of WD-40 and a few, actually a bunch, of hammer taps and the Z bolt came loose. Same thing with the upper end of of the link, spray, hit, spray some more, hit some more, eventually everything came loose. Mine is a 2016 Ford chassis and was only a month old when I did the CHF. Persistence pays off!!!

EdInArk · 02-20-2017, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soonerdave

Had the same problem with mine. Generous use of WD-40 and a few, actually a bunch, of hammer taps and the Z bolt came loose. Same thing with the upper end of of the link, spray, hit, spray some more, hit some more, eventually everything came loose. Mine is a 2016 Ford chassis and was only a month old when I did the CHF. Persistence pays off!!!

To get the Z-bolt out of the bottom I was able to get a big screwdriver between the bracket and washer and pry them apart. That's when I realized the bolt pressed into the bracket was pressed into the sleeve in the bushing as well. The knurled end of the bold was a tad longer than the thickness of the bracket. It was only a couple of millimeters, but it stuck good.

That's what happened at the top as well, and I couldn't get the link to swing back without forcing it 'til I loosened both nuts so I could break it loose.

halfprice · 02-20-2017, 10:34 PM

Got the brackets welded yesterday and holes drilled out today. While marking the bracket for the holes i decided to remove the sway bar and lube the bushings. As TeJay expected the bushings were dry (we discussed this a while ago in a pm) reinstalled after lubing them. Tomorrow ill get the 4 new bolts for the bottom side of the bracket, and get the bracket painted Ford blue

Jerry