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Old 04-16-2017, 06:18 PM   #4369
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I don't have an air gun for this work but I am wondering how the Sears 19.2V impact hammer will work on a project like this.

Has anyone done this with a battery powered impact gun?
If you're talking about the CHF, I just used hand tools, and it was quite easy.
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Old 04-16-2017, 06:27 PM   #4370
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Thanks. Now that I think about it I am thinking it would work for the installation of a track bar and steering stabilized.
So yes, the initial question regards the use of this for CHF but it also applies to a steering stabilizer and track bars should it come to that.

First of all we will load the coach up and take it in for alignment and see what they say.
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Old 04-16-2017, 06:47 PM   #4371
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Brodan, the very first CHF was done with an open end wrench and a crescent wrench on gravel. No jacks, no creeper. In Alaska campground, mosquitoes the size of sparrows.

John McKinley
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Old 04-16-2017, 06:56 PM   #4372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BroDan View Post
I don't have an air gun for this work but I am wondering how the Sears 19.2V impact hammer will work on a project like this.

Has anyone done this with a battery powered impact gun?
Don't need an impact, 24" breaker bar and a torque wrench. Battery impact won't do it, not enough umph!
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Old 04-16-2017, 07:10 PM   #4373
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Originally Posted by jmckinley View Post
Brodan, the very first CHF was done with an open end wrench and a crescent wrench on gravel. No jacks, no creeper. In Alaska campground, mosquitoes the size of sparrows.

John McKinley
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Cheap Handling Fix
I'm hoping to have it sorted out before we get up there from Florida.\
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Old 04-16-2017, 08:22 PM   #4374
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One can never have enough tools. Went into HF about 4 hours ago with a 25% off coupon and got a 1/2" D electric impact that is supposed to deliver 230 ft/lbs of torque. It listed for $50.

I have an air impact but on the road that won't work. So with a generator I'll always have 120 volts. The 19.5" tires require 150 ft lbs of torque so this should work.

I took my ford Ranger tires off with it and it hardly worked at all. I don't know what they were torqued to since it is a 2000 but new to me. I'll be rotating the coach tires in a few days so I'll let you know.

The CHF requires 15-mm & 18-mm sockets or box wrenches and something to get it torqued to 66 ft lbs with some blue lock tight as well.

Actually last week I did the CHF on a friends coach with a 1/4" D 18-volt battery impact and it worked great. It was used mainly to remove all the bolts. Another HF tool that did the job. That one listed for $39 and with a coupon (20%) it was about $32 + tax.
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Old 04-16-2017, 08:28 PM   #4375
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Sears claims 300 ft/lbs for their 19.2 battery HD unit.

I'm thinking it will come in handy with the right sockets.
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Old 04-17-2017, 07:56 AM   #4376
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Small world! I'm just up in Moore - 10 miles away. I was at Carsell in 1980 for D model CCTS and again in 95 for H model CFIC.
very small lol D model the tall tail nice.....

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I see you did Roadmaster stabilizer sways and also have the 5 star time. I have the same stabilizer and tune. You added a CAI - how well does that work and did it up the hill climbing noise at all?
I assume you are talking about the ram air, it did increase HP slightly and and responsiveness of the engine, or at least seemed to me to work that way. LOL I have commented on another thread it did increase the noise during acceleration. I am happy with it and am used to it, but when i did it i also had insulated my dog house so the noise reduction i gained was lost by the ram air. I should say it is only noticeable only during acceleration. My engine has a slight roar to it from the increase air and more open intake. I am happy with it and very used to the acceleration noise now.

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Have you been able to compare your bars with the CHF?
Eric
I have both fornt and rear roadmaster sway bars so i have 3 on my coach since the stock rear stays on the coach in addition to the roadmaster rear. I ahve not done any of the CHF since i have the heavier bars and added one in the rear. Ia m debating either SUMO or air bags and then maybe a track bar but still pretty happy with my coach handling and ride. I would just like to reduce some fo the road joint shock in the fornt end when on these bad highways.

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Old 04-18-2017, 09:11 AM   #4377
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Cheap Handling Fix

Ok, I think third time is the charm. This looks much better to me. I also re-painted and let it dry overnight. I sure hope it passes inspection. What do you think?
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Old 04-18-2017, 10:12 AM   #4378
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The 19.5" tires require 150 ft lbs of torque ......

I'll be rotating the coach tires in a few days so I'll let you know.
.
I'll be looking forward to your review of this. For almost 50 years I've always done all of my own maintenance items on my vehicles but never rotated tires on something with wheels of this size and weight before.
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Old 04-18-2017, 12:27 PM   #4379
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Thanks again, and farewell!

I am beyond grateful for this thread, its originators, and its propagators. The CHP was the most beneficial mod I made to my Sunstar LX 27N....among several efforts to improve the F53 chassis behavior. Just as I got satisfied with driving that rig, I ended up trading it in Phoenix while there for 5 weeks this past winter. Bought a Fleetwood Pace Arrow 35M with the Freightliner chassis and 340HP Cummins rear diesel. Overlooking a few quality control finish issues and 1 bad A/C unit, we love this new RV.

Due to this change in motorhomes, I'm dropping off this specific thread. I hope to find one that is half as helpful for owners of the Pace Arrow!
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Old 04-18-2017, 09:00 PM   #4380
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Jonathan,
If you give me a drawing or print I can make it for you. I live close to the Stadium in SD. I will probably have to buy the metal unless I can find something in my scrap pile.
Well, I have my taxes done and the school year is drawing to a close, it looks like me decks are clear enough to do all the things I'm planning to do the motorhome before our summer trip. CHF is high on the list. If you or TeJay have a set of plates or have any time available still to make me a set, I'd really appreciate it. Totally understand if you're busy. If busy, is there any machine shop around San Diego that you'd recommend? Or recommend to avoid?

Am also going to replace the shocks, put on a rear track bar and front steering stabilizer. I need a pinion seal, so the plan for that stuff is to book an appointment to have the pinion seal done, plus have "all the stuff in this box" installed :-)

Thanks!

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Old 04-18-2017, 09:28 PM   #4381
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I thought the plates were supposed to do the same as lenghting the links, so the sway bar arms were on the same plane, after moving to the inner holes.

The pictures I'm looking at seem to lower the sway bar arms, much closer to the road, and only move the pivot point half way back towards the inner holes.

At this point, with the plates on, shouldn't you be able to unbolt the links and swing them foward and have them line up with the outer, original holes, without rotating the sway bar in the bushings ?

Changing the geometry, of the whole sway bar system, may make it less effective.

TeJay, what post has pictures of your extension plates ?
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Old 04-18-2017, 11:14 PM   #4382
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Larry finally got the holes drilled correctly in Post 3377. His previous pic (post # 4357) was incorrect. Also Larry's plates are only 3-1/2" tall so the SB will not be as close to level. I had made those before and Larry said he would be happy with them. They will get the geometry closer to correct but 5" tall plates would have been better.

The idea for the adjustable plates came about because I wanted to do more than just set it for stock or CHF. I wanted to try more or less SWAY control than the CHF position.

When I finally decided exactly how much SWAY control I was comfortable with I also realized that I probably would never move the adjustment again. At the same time I realized that using plates also allowed the leveling of the SB.

Another factor to consider when deciding to use the plates is this. Some have reported that they were not having any issues with the lack of sway control. Some have reported that they thought the ride was harsher with the CHF.

Both of the above situations could be addressed with the adjustable plates. That would allow those who needed more sway control but thought that the full CHF would give them more harshness could opt for something less the the full CHF. If someone wanted just a bit more SWAY control they could set it at +1" or +2" or where ever they had drilled the holes.

The first adjustable plates can be found starting at these post locations: 3138, 3161, 3257 & 3287. None of these pics show the taller plates. Actually I don't believe I have posted any pics of taller plates.

On these posts I think the top plate is 3-1/2" tall. Understand that I already extended my links 2" so I only needed a few more inches to get to a level SB.

For my situation this worked out fine. Then some folks who didn't have easy access to metal shops started asking me if I'd make some plates. I started making the top plate 5" tall so no extending of the links would be necessary.

twinboat, You are correct on the plates. When you go back and look at the earlier posts you'll see that on my wooden mock ups with the SB leveled I drew an ARC. Holes can be drilled anywhere along the ARC and bolts will easily fit without moving the SB from level.

The secret is you have to level the flat part of the SB where the link bolts before drawing the ARC.
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