RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE CHASSIS CLUB FORUMS > Ford Motorhome Chassis Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-19-2017, 02:38 AM   #4383
Member
 
Jim_ Bob's Avatar
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Orlando
Posts: 80
Mounting Bolt location

Just looking at Larry's picture of the link it looks real close to being "right on" It's hard to get it exact by looking at the picture, but if you draw an imaginary line from the center of the top mounting bolt thru the center of the bottom mounting bolt and continue along the surface of the plate, then draw an imaginary line from the center of the
SB where it mounts to the rear-end to the center of the rear SB mounting hole, the two lines should be 90 deg apart. The link could be any length mounted to the plate any place along the first line. It does not matter if the end of the SB is level. The 90 deg would be "perfect condition". An angle of more than 90 deg would also put some rearward pressure on the SB.

http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/Sway-Bar-Link-Force-Calculator.html
__________________

Jim_ Bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 04-19-2017, 07:09 AM   #4384
Senior Member
 
LarryJB's Avatar




 
Tiffin Owners Club
RV Trip Wizard
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Mountainburg, AR
Posts: 1,104
Maybe others can learn from my mistakes. If so, then I am really glad I made them.
__________________

__________________
There are 10 types of people... Those that understand binary and those that don't.
_________________________
2018 Tiffin Phaeton 40AH/2018 Hyundai Elantra Sport Toad
LarryJB is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2017, 07:20 AM   #4385
Senior Member
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 6,082
When I built the first plates I worked hard to get everything just as close to perfect and exact as I could. The truth of the matter is it really does not matter. If you get close to the same position as the stock or CHF position it's OK but it is not necessary.

What does help is getting the holes the same for both sides. If they are off by say 1/2" getting one side in is easy getting the other one in will be an issue. If they are drilled the same both bolts should slide in easy unless you are on a slight slope.

If I'm off some I can usually use a 2X4 and pry the low side up enough to get the bolt in.

When helping a guy install his plates last month I actually drilled the hole about 1/2" more than the CHF position and he was very happy with it. He reported back that it was 100% better with the ride and handling. His coach was 34' long and had less than 1,000 miles on it.
__________________
TeJay Auto Instructor/4-yrs USAF/ Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/CHF/5-Star/Koni * Bella & Izzy * Golden /Cocker mix/ Louie The Cat* All Retired
TeJay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2017, 08:12 AM   #4386
Senior Member
 
Johndale's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ft Worth texas
Posts: 1,081
TeJay
Do you have a drawing of the final brackets or are you selling them.
I would like to get a set for my RV.
__________________
2003 Sightseer 33L
Ford F53
Johndale is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2017, 06:13 PM   #4387
Junior Member
 
sb-rigdriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 3
Thanks to everyone for this thread. I've learned a lot reading through many posts.
I have a 2012 Thor Ace 29.1. Because of your advice I had Ford do the front CHF and it made a significant improvement in sway. But it added to the already harsh ride on rough roads. So, I just installed Koni FSD front and rear. Wow, they're great. The ride softened, but they add a little bit of sway back into the rig. Just wondering what some of you may advise could be my next step in finding suspension bliss?
sb-rigdriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2017, 10:47 PM   #4388
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 3
CHF
czander475 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2017, 11:44 PM   #4389
Member
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 97
sb-rigdriver, good to hear about the Konis. Am about to replace my old yellow Bilsteins (probably original) and was debating between the new Bistein B6 shocks or the FSDs, have decided to go with FSD. Will also be doing the CHF soon and replacing my old rubber sway bar bushings with poly ones from Skuterdude.

The experts on this thread can give more detailed advice, but generally, other things to do are:

- Rear CHF, if you haven't already
- Rear track bar, if you haven't already (going to do this myself; some on here have made their own, but I have no metal fabbing skills so will buy one)
- A lot of people like Sumo springs. Some people do air bags.

To help guide you, how are the handling characteristics of your MH now? Is it pretty good, white knuckle, etc.? What does it do that you want to to stop doing?

Mine is generally pretty good (2008 Bounder 35H) but of course, I'd like to be better, where better = less lean on corners and less push from semis.

-Jonathan
__________________
JB, wife, 3 daughters, my dad, 3 cats
'08 Bounder 35H towing 2009 Honda Odyssey
bluegiller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2017, 06:03 AM   #4390
Junior Member
 
sb-rigdriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 3
Bluegriller, it was the original shocks I replaced as well. Scientific proof konis work is: I have a front hydraulic bunk. When retracted to ceiling, the two unattached corners are held snug to ceiling with a magnet. The passenger side always shakes loose. Since installing konis, it stays attached.

I didn't do rear CHF yet, couldn't seem to relieve weight pressure no matter what I jacked up. Gonna have ford do it when I do inspection next month.

The Ace rode pretty good with factory set-up, but I hate teeth rattling and swaying. It's always done some swaying and teeth rattling. I have to white knuckle on rough road, and in PA, that's just about all the time ��

I bought it last year and the dealership had the tires at 110psi. I dumbishly drove it like that for a while and just about needed dental work. Then I wised up and checked out mfg setting which were 85psi all around, but I kept fronts at 95 to reduce sway.

I really want to get a steering stabilizer. I hate all the steering corrections.

It'd be nice to hear from someone who got the sumos. Looked at em before.

The biggest problem is, I test drove some diesel pushers before I bought this. Actually, some diesels are sway machines, and dreadful, but others were like a Cadillac Escalade. Smooth.

I don't think I would ever get a diesel if I could get my gasser to ride like that.

CHF will help you a lot in the bounder with lean imo. And, factory shocks are dung.
My wife has even noticed the difference.
sb-rigdriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2017, 01:03 PM   #4391
Moderator Emeritus
 
Hudsoner's Avatar


 
Thor Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The alligators and I
Posts: 835
sb-rigdriver, I think my 29D Hurricane is similar in size and weight to yours.
I am now at the point that I can steer the thing with one hand, even when semis pass me! However, the ride over bad road sections is still harsh (I will be working on this over the coming summer).
What I have done so far on my unit, Koni shocks, Steer Safe steering help, CHF in the front and the rear (I needed the plates from TeJay in the front, because the sway bar links were hitting the springs under certain driving conditions with just the CHF done to them), rear track bar (Tiger Track from Blue Ox), and Sumo Maxim springs in the front. I am still debating if it is worth the while to put Sumo's in the back.

All in all, I thinks the handling of my motorhome is as good as it gets for a unit with the 190 wheelbase. Once I have the harsh ride eliminated, it should handle and drive like the bigger cars of the 80's (Ford Crown Victoria, Chevy Caprice, etc.). It will never be a sports car, but I do not expect this from a truck/school bus chassis, but it should be a pretty comfortable to drive cruiser with it's own bathroom and bed in the back!
__________________
2001 Hurricane 29D RIP, died in June 2019
2015 Kia Sorento RIP died in June 2019
Kymco Motor Scooter still running
Maya the Rottweiler/Great Dane Mix still as healthy as ever
Hudsoner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2017, 10:47 PM   #4392
Senior Member
 
halfprice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Whittier, Ca
Posts: 246
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay View Post
LARRY,

That is a simple answer. Well simple if you've taken it apart 4 dozen times. The hole in the SB is for a 12-mm 10.9 metric bolt. That is .71-mm smaller than a 1/2" bolt. The real problem is the holes are punched into a hardened piece of torsion bar. You'll not widen it very easily to 1/2" without a lot of problems. I know because i did it.

Buy some slightly longer than 2" bolts 12-mm with a hardness of 10.9. A metric bolt close to that will be 2.17-mm long. Any decent parts store will have them. The 10.9 is the class or tinsel strength of the bolt.
Hey TeJay,
Im adding the plates to a buddies mh and i cant find 10.9 bolts. The store where i usually get them only has 8.8. Is this ok. I tried a couple other stores but no luck.

Jerry
__________________
Jerry/Maria and Sasha 6lb Yorkie
2017 Thor Hurricane 29M/
2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
FMCA # F464385
halfprice is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2017, 06:55 AM   #4393
Senior Member
 
LarryJB's Avatar




 
Tiffin Owners Club
RV Trip Wizard
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Mountainburg, AR
Posts: 1,104
Have you tried auto parts stores? That's where I found mine.
__________________
There are 10 types of people... Those that understand binary and those that don't.
_________________________
2018 Tiffin Phaeton 40AH/2018 Hyundai Elantra Sport Toad
LarryJB is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2017, 06:56 AM   #4394
Senior Member
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 6,082
Jerry,

It's good to question things like that. For future reference do as I did. Google, "Metric Bolt hardness chart." There you will find the needed comparisons.

A 12.9 metric bolt (Grade 8 equivalent in SAE American) is rated at 150,000 psi (pounds per square inch) hardness or tinsel strength.

A metric bolt grade 8.8 is an equivalent grade 5 SAE in American and is rated at 120,000 psi.

If you can't find 12.9 metric you are giving up some hardness and clamping power to hold things together. I'll assume that the Ford engineers know more than I do and want the harder bolt. You would probably be OK with the softer bolts and if one broke nothing serious is going to happen but it's up to you.

You said you can't find a place to buy them. Why not just order them on line. It can't take more than a few days to get them and you'll be doing it correctly.

If you decide to use the 8.8 bolts (or 12.9) bolts make sure they are torqued correctly with some blue lock tight. Then check/inspect them every 500 miles for the first 1,000 or so miles They may be OK and like I said earlier if one breaks nothing except loss of sway control will happen. In the mean time order the harder bolts.

Just yesterday I helped a friend lube his (SB) Stabilizer Bar bushings. We had already done the CHF on his rig last year. All went well with the front. When we did the rear his right rear SB link was broken completely in half right in the middle. I just said WOW I've never seen or heard of this before. Then I remembered that last year he was broad sided in AL and his rig spent 4 months getting fixed. I'm 99% convinced that's what broke the link and who ever fixed his coach just missed it.

Let me know what you decide.

Morning Larry!!!!

TeJay
__________________
TeJay Auto Instructor/4-yrs USAF/ Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/CHF/5-Star/Koni * Bella & Izzy * Golden /Cocker mix/ Louie The Cat* All Retired
TeJay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2017, 08:22 AM   #4395
Senior Member
 
halfprice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Whittier, Ca
Posts: 246
Thanks Larry and TeJay. I did google it but didnt really understand what i was reading. Stupid me i never thought to chech an auto parts store or even a Ford dealership. Thats what ill do. Thanks guys.
__________________
Jerry/Maria and Sasha 6lb Yorkie
2017 Thor Hurricane 29M/
2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
FMCA # F464385
halfprice is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2017, 09:34 AM   #4396
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 4
Do not use the lower grade 8.8 bolt in place of the 10.9 - that is a significant drop in tensile strength, and they may fail.

If you can't find them locally, go to McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com).

https://www.mcmaster.com/#95327a681/=17e7a4s


Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Steel Hex Head Screw
High-Strength, M12x1.75 mm Thread, 50 mm Long, Partial Threaded
Packs of 5
ADD TO ORDER
In stock
$5.94 per pack of 5
95327A681
Thread Size M12
Thread Pitch 1.75 mm
Length 50 mm
Threading Partially Threaded
Minimum Thread Length 30 mm
Head Width 19 mm
Head Height 7.5 mm
Material Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Steel
Fastener Strength Grade/Class Class 10.9
Hardness Rockwell C32
Tensile Strength 150,000 psi
Thread Type Metric
Thread Spacing Coarse
Thread Fit Class 6h
Thread Direction Right Hand
Head Type Hex
Hex Head Profile Standard
Drive Style External Hex
Specifications Met DIN 931
System of Measurement Metric
RoHS Not Compliant
Good for demanding applications such as suspension systems, these screws are at least 25% stronger than medium-strength steel screws. Length is measured from under the head.

Zinc yellow-chromate plated steel screws resist corrosion in wet environments.
__________________

derek b is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Workhorse! Please take notes on how Toyota is handling their recall! dezertcamper Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 388 07-18-2010 01:49 PM
Fuel filter fix Discovery 2008 Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 2 10-14-2009 09:48 PM
Icemaker Fix JDT Monaco Owner's Forum 2 09-13-2009 12:14 PM
Fiberglass siding delaminating. Fix? timmosazz MH-General Discussions & Problems 3 07-29-2009 05:22 PM
Rain Fix NEW ?? tvp Newmar Owner's Forum 18 01-13-2006 08:29 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:56 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×