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Old 07-21-2017, 07:46 AM   #4579
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Ok....I taped the SB in the middle of the bar and drove over some rough roads, several large speed bumps at faster than normal speeds, and turned into some businesses with really steep street curbs. Checked the tape and no sign of rubbing. So I think I'm good there. Plus, I could tell a noticeable improvement in handling with the rear CHF done now!

A couple of other posts were split between breaking free the top of the links at the frame, or just leaving them alone. It will be a PITA to loosen those bolts, knock out the bracket, and reinstall so the links swing freely. Since you're kind of the expert on CHF, what would you recommend?

Thanks....David
Pull a bolt and see if they spring back to the old position. If not, they worked their way into position.
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Old 07-21-2017, 01:01 PM   #4580
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If something needs to be loosened and pried out so it will move correctly then I wouldn't sleep well until it was done. There is a possibility that no damage would be done if you didn't fix it but that's just a guess.

I do remember having that same issue when I did the rears back when the unit had 40 miles on it (22,000 now) so I went ahead and did it. If I'm correct I installed the link nut and gently hammered the bolt until it came out. Did not have to pry.

Also with a 2017 unit all those bushing are poly. You could use some penetrating lube. Normally I'd not because most of that lube is harmful to rubber. Poly is a different type of bushing material.

I have since built and installed some adjustable plates for the rear and have set my CHF to 1" more than where the CHF hole would be. I've got the same on the front and have over 8,000 miles in that position and all is well. The same for the rear.

Some have reported that the ride is harsher but I don't believe that it is. It's not an air ride DP but when the roads are smooth all is great. When the roads are not smooth it's still waaaaaay better than stock.

I've sprayed some silicone lube on them and will give it a day to hopefully penetrate. And then I'll loosen the bolts and reset them. I'll put some poly lube on the bushings and loctite on the bolts.

I had already done the front CHF and it really helped, but the rear was an even more noticeable improvement. Of course having the rear sway bar virtually hanging by one clamp probably didn't help either. :-)

Thanks!
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Old 07-21-2017, 01:54 PM   #4581
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The SWAY control is similar to changing shocks. When someone decides that it's time to change shocks we are amazed at how bad the shocks were only after they have been replaced.

We realized that the SWAY control was bad either from missing bushings or lost bolts and bent brackets, after we fixed why it wasn't working.
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Old 07-22-2017, 01:10 PM   #4582
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Cheap Handling Fix

Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay View Post
The SWAY control is similar to changing shocks. When someone decides that it's time to change shocks we are amazed at how bad the shocks were only after they have been replaced.

We realized that the SWAY control was bad either from missing bushings or lost bolts and bent brackets, after we fixed why it wasn't working.

My wife and I crawled under the Bounder yesterday and redid the rear CHF, including loosening the bolts, brackets and bushings at the top of the link. Took some pounding with a rubber mallet, but I got her to help me anyway (kidding).

Everything is in line, lubed and tight now and feel much better about it.

Thanks!
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Old 07-22-2017, 01:12 PM   #4583
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You give the wife the big hammer and say

" When I nod my head, you hit it ".
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Old 07-22-2017, 07:36 PM   #4584
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Was at the campsite yesterday and did the rear sway bar link mod. Used the rear jacks to align the link to the sway bar inside hole. Took 1/2 hour total.

Drove it back home and did notice a positive improvement. I will change the link to an adjustable link this week to get the bar back to level again. As it is now with the stock links, if the suspension was extended, the sway bar middle would hit the bottom of the differential. Might not hurt anything, but since getting a good deal on the adjustable links on iRV classifieds, might as well get them right.

The adjustable link will come in handy if I do get rear air bags, to re-adjust the links to perfect with the new, higher stance.

I might try the front bar next and weld the link a bit longer.
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Old 07-26-2017, 02:01 PM   #4585
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I got the adjustable links (from iRV2 classifieds) and put them on the front sway inner holes. Adjusted the length to 13" eye to eye and that was the same sway bar attitude when the stock links were in the outer holes.

The links came with bushings and hardware. The hardware was smaller than the original bolts. I wasn't comfy with that anticipating the bolts might slide around if they weren't super tight. So, I reused the old steel bushings in the new rods poly ends. Same OD, larger ID, slightly shorter length than the new bushings. Went together fine.

Quick road test around the neighborhood and seems nice. No noises, limited sway.

Onto the next project...
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Old 07-28-2017, 06:22 AM   #4586
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I ran across this on the Forest River forums.

Referring to the bracket that the upper link is attached to on the frame.

Anyone seen this?

Does this bracket exist on the F53 or did this guy make this bracket?

https://youtu.be/GOxSr4tC3EI

..
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Old 07-28-2017, 07:20 AM   #4587
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Waiter21,

I think I recognize the guy doing the talking. He's also on this forum and yes he did add the bracket.

His bracket is added at the top and does correct the steep angle when the CHF is employed. Yes it works.

Some of us on this forum decided on some other choices. At first we extended the links which fixed the steep angle and that's it. The other option was to add adjustable plates at the bottom or on the SB instead of at the top on the frame.

The plates corrected the steep angle issue and provided additional link connection holes so owners would have choices for SWAY control.

Just another way of tweaking the ride and handling on the F-53 chassis.
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Old 07-28-2017, 07:28 AM   #4588
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TeJay - I thought so, tnks.

It is an interesting option.
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Old 07-28-2017, 09:30 PM   #4589
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Also get some blue lock tight (thread lock) as added insurance for all the bolts that you remove and replace (R&R) on the SWAY control system.

If you don't R&R the rear brackets that hold the SB (Stabilizer Bar) on to the differential do it anyway. They have had a tendency to come loose. All bolts in those areas will require a torque of 66 ft/lbs when replaced.

What is the torque for the link bolts?
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Old 07-28-2017, 10:23 PM   #4590
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Tim,

All those bolts on the SWAY control system are torqued to 66 ft/lbs.
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Old 07-28-2017, 11:07 PM   #4591
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Thanks
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Old 07-29-2017, 04:14 PM   #4592
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Did the CHF today, took a short drive and I think I am gonna be satisfied with the improvement.. Thanks to everyone who posted on here with the instruction, pictures and reports on the changes it made to the handling of the F53 chassis.
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