Cheap Handling Fix

[jomo]

Originally Posted by Barrett-FL

I was looking to adding a Steering Stabilizer and have been doing some research and comparison.
I was considering purchasing a Safe-T-Plus ("Lifetime warranty") however when looking under the coach to see if I could perform the CHF (which I cannot as only one hole), I found our coach already had a red Sate-T-Plus installed.
I don't see any indications to suggest it has leaked or any physical damages other than road wear.

We bought the coach in April and looking through the paperwork we find no records, receipts etc. to determine how old the Safe-T-Plus is.

Our coach is a 1995 and only has 31K miles so it's likely not worn out from use but may be bad due to age.
I don't know if its working and even though I'm a new coach driver, the coach sways and gets buffeted just as others complain of regarding "white knuckle driving".

I don't want to spend $500.00 on a new one until I know this one isn't working properly. Any ideas on how to check it or what to look for?

Thanks!

If it's not leaking it's probably ok. You're driving a truck chassis so wind and road conditions will cause some white knuckle driving. There are things that will help but it's always going to be a truck. How much do you want to spend?
Rear track bar and rear sway bars are where I'd start first.
Good luck.

[Waiter21]

Yes, it will work, but longer links is better..

If you're doing it your self, you should be able to remove the links, cut the pieces, and almost any shop will be able to weld them for you.

CHF – Cheap Handling Fix – Fix for sway and handling – 1999 Southwind 35S

..

[jomo]

Originally Posted by starcrwzr

Has anyone done the CHF on the front without lengthening the front connecting rods? Does it work if you don't lengthen them? I'm considering this for my 2016 Sunstar LX 27N but don't want to go through the hassle of getting things welded up since the closest welder is an hour away. Thanks in advance.

I just swapped holes and mine is fine. Nothing else needed.

[hohenwald48]

Originally Posted by starcrwzr

Has anyone done the CHF on the front without lengthening the front connecting rods? Does it work if you don't lengthen them? I'm considering this for my 2016 Sunstar LX 27N but don't want to go through the hassle of getting things welded up since the closest welder is an hour away. Thanks in advance.

The only problem I've seen reported with not lengthening the links is that the sway bar can contact the leaf springs at full extension. Keep the front wheels on the ground and it should not be a problem.

With the rear links there have been some issues with the sway bar contacting the rear axle differential housing.

[fpresto]

Just swapped holes. No issues.

[TeJay]

Yes you can swap holes and all will be well. Many have done it with no adverse consequences. The only reason why some extended the links was to easy the sharp angles created when the CHF was employed. That is only necessary on the fronts. Nobody has had any issues if they didn't extend the links. So the choice is your.

The adjustable plates were used so the SWAY control can be adjusted. I just wanted to know if more or less SWAY was OK. At this point I'm set for 1" MORE than the CHF position and been there for at least 5,000 miles and all is well and I can drive the RV with little SWAY one handed if I choose to.

You've got four choices: STOCK, CHF, Extended Links or Adjustable PLATES!! Any choice will work. Choices 2 is free and will give you excellent SWAY control but steep link angles. Choice 3 will give you excellent SWAY control and less stress on link bushings. Choice 4 will give you excellent SWAY control, the ability to make adjustments as desired and less strain on link bushings.

Choice 3 will cost $40 or so to have them extended. Commercial links are expensive. Choice 4 plates will cost you $50.

[powercat_ras]

I am one of the hundreds if not thousands of F53 owners that have gone with CHF without extended links. 24,000 miles and counting configured this way with no problems. Only suspension problem I have had is failure of one of the rear sway bar bushing straps due to nut not being torqued correctly at the factory. That has been discussed in CHF and other threads. Seems a lot of F53s get built with those fasteners either not tight enough or without thread lock or both.

[wildtoad]

Yep. I simply asked the mechanic who did my alignment (needed or not) to move the connections. Does it make a difference? Don’t know, cause I also adjusted the tire pressures at the same time. All I know is I am fine with the way it raised, without spending a small fortune on additional parts.

[hohenwald48]

Originally Posted by wildtoad

All I know is I am fine with the way it raised, without spending a small fortune on additional parts.

What was "raised" ?

[jomo]

Originally Posted by hohenwald48

What was "raised" ?

The front wheels when leveling

[wrapperman]

I went with TeJay's choice #4
Thanks TeJay
Worked for me.
I have the 24,000 lb. chassis.
Total weight of the coach when almost fully loaded is 22,500 lbs.

[TeJay]

Thanks, you're welcome!!

[DryCreek]

Originally Posted by jomo

If it's not leaking it's probably ok. You're driving a truck chassis so wind and road conditions will cause some white knuckle driving. There are things that will help but it's always going to be a truck. How much do you want to spend?
Rear track bar and rear sway bars are where I'd start first.
Good luck.

Don't forget, before 2006 the F-53 did not have a (standard) front track bar either! That would be another great place to start.

[starcrwzr]

Originally Posted by TeJay

Yes you can swap holes and all will be well. Many have done it with no adverse consequences. The only reason why some extended the links was to easy the sharp angles created when the CHF was employed. That is only necessary on the fronts. Nobody has had any issues if they didn't extend the links. So the choice is your.

The adjustable plates were used so the SWAY control can be adjusted. I just wanted to know if more or less SWAY was OK. At this point I'm set for 1" MORE than the CHF position and been there for at least 5,000 miles and all is well and I can drive the RV with little SWAY one handed if I choose to.

You've got four choices: STOCK, CHF, Extended Links or Adjustable PLATES!! Any choice will work. Choices 2 is free and will give you excellent SWAY control but steep link angles. Choice 3 will give you excellent SWAY control and less stress on link bushings. Choice 4 will give you excellent SWAY control, the ability to make adjustments as desired and less strain on link bushings.

Choice 3 will cost $40 or so to have them extended. Commercial links are expensive. Choice 4 plates will cost you $50.

TeJay - Where can I get the adjustable plates?