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Old 02-22-2018, 02:45 PM   #4929
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To tired read all - so after 4928 posts is it safe to assume that one should strongly consider the CHF on a late model F53?
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Old 02-22-2018, 03:22 PM   #4930
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The CHF has worked very well on all F-53 chassis from 1999 until the present. Even the curved links have worked but perhaps with some extra flat washers to keep lined up and working OK.

I have yet to see a picture far enough back to see how the relationship of all parts to make a definitive determination. Until I do I'll assume that it will work.

If you have curved links take a pic and post it. Any number of folks will respond.
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Old 02-22-2018, 10:48 PM   #4931
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I have the CHF installed on my 2001 F53 chassis for about eight years and some 40k miles. I have not seen a single problem with it.
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Old 02-23-2018, 09:11 AM   #4932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay View Post
I have yet to see a picture far enough back to see how the relationship of all parts to make a definitive determination. Until I do I'll assume that it will work.
Sorry it took so long. The knees refused to cooperate.

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Old 02-23-2018, 09:58 AM   #4933
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Bob,

We know that a picture is worth a 1,000 words. Many thanks for posting them. Everything is lined up well so there's no worries with the hook up. I'm assuming that you used blue lock tight?

In the 2nd and 3rd pictures from the top your leveling jacks are raised, tires on the ground and the SB arm where the plates connect are slightly above level and above the axle.

At the advice of some posters the top plate is shorter which raised the SB very close to its STOCK position. Just a minor change.
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Old 02-23-2018, 11:29 AM   #4934
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Thanks TeJay. I did use the blue loktite. I was reading something on another forum where the poster said he used the "green Loktite instead of the blue because the green wicks into the treads. I'm assuming he puts the nut on the bolt, floods the front and back of the nut and the green stuff wicks into its desired area.

I've heard of red and blue but never green. And before I installed the plates my passenger side tire was two or three inches off the ground.
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Old 02-23-2018, 01:17 PM   #4935
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Bob,
I've only heard of RED and BLUE. The RED requires heat to remove and the BLUE does not. Never heard of the GREEN. Have to learn something new every day so I guess I have. Off to learn more new stuff.

Yep the plates will keep the tires on the ground longer when leveling. It's not the perfect solution but where we travel the sights usually level or at least close.
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Old 02-23-2018, 01:55 PM   #4936
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As far as I know there are two types of green; one is very thin and is designed to be used after the hardware is on and tightened, it will wick between the male and female threads, and the other is the same viscosity as the blue and red. It is used mainly for stud and bearing mounting.
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Old 02-23-2018, 02:11 PM   #4937
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wackymac,

Thanks for the update. I kind of like the idea of the wicking aspect of it. That would make it easier to apply and maybe wouldn't be as expensive or wasteful?
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Old 02-28-2018, 05:01 PM   #4938
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Got my plates from TeJay and wrapped the install up today. The changeout took about 30 minutes. Will test drive later this week.

Thanks again TeJay for the quick delivery and instructions.

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Old 03-01-2018, 11:55 AM   #4939
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TeJay

Are you doing rear plates yet.
I am not in any rush and just wondering.
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Old 03-09-2018, 01:42 PM   #4940
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I had done the CHF, front and rear, last fall and decided to order and install new swaybar bushings. Just did them today, they were not in terrible shape but the new poly ones seem much better. FYI, the bolts holding the swaybar straps to the axle were tight and had blue loctite (from the factory, I believe).
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Old 03-10-2018, 07:26 AM   #4941
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phil-t,

You are new to the forum and as I'm sure you are aware there is a lot of great information available. It would help all contributors if you'd give us a little background either on a specific post or on your signature.

Did you buy your 2010 unit new?? Has the unit been in for service with an unrelated issue (SWAY control)? Maybe a proactive technician just added the lock tight? Anything is possible.

Did you change bushings on the front and rear SB (Stabilizer Bars) ?? Did you notice the blue LT on all SB bracket bolts?

Answers to these questions might allow us to form a better opinion why the LT was present when we've not seen that from the factory at all.

Loose, bent, broken or missing SB brackets have only been on the rear. So far no definitive answer/reason has been put forth as to why.

The stock soy bean oil bushings usually disintegrate after 8-10 years. You were wise to replace them when you did. My guess is with new bushings and the CHF your SWAY control will be even better than you'd hoped.

Travel safe!!
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Old 03-10-2018, 08:45 AM   #4942
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TeJay,
Thanks for the notes. I did update my sig a little. Not enough room there.
Here's a bit of info:
2010 Winnebago Vista 32K, 2009 Ford F53 22k, Chassis, Airlift rear airsprings. Purchased with 8k miles 8/2017 (consignment/private sale). After purchase,and first 2k mile trip, - CHF (front and rear), DIY rear tracbar, new SB bushings (front and rear), new Toyo tires (replaced the 9 YO origional Goodyears, front end alignment, four corner weight check (loaded for travel). New batteries, eplaced original NAPA with 4 Duracell EGC2 6v house batteries and a Duracell AGM chassis battery. New 60A Boondocker 4 stage converter/charger.
2016 SRX TOAD with Roadmaster TB and brake controller.
Everything I've done, or experienced, with this ClassA indicates it is completely original and stock except for the rear air springs being added. I have talked to the original purchaser/owner (bought from him through a consignment) and he says he never had anything done except the added airsprings.
You are certainly correct in saying someone could have added the blue lt to the SB bracket bolts somewhere along the way (yes, front and rear had the blue lt), but - none of the bolts I handled doing the CHF had any of the lt, so I am assuming it was done at the factory, maybe not.
This forum and especially your posts, have been an immense help to me in these chassis changes, and yes, they have helped sway control and push from passing semis and box trucks an unbelievable amount. My first drive (about 2000 miles round trip) to SC and back right after purchase was a no fun handling adventure. Did the CHF and rear tracbar and made a 1000 mile round trip to Maine after that - huge difference and an enjoyable trip.
We are preparing/planning for a big 10 week trip to Grand Canyon, LasVegas, and several western, mountain NPs beginng mid-May. Maybe ~8 to 10k miles. Doing all my maintence and looking close at all systems and chassis components.

I am also a 4 year '70-'74 Airforce Vet. with a tour of Thailand in there.
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