Community Forums

property · 03-15-2019, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jharrell

Has anyone around here reported abnormal tire wear due to toe? I am starting to think with the mileage most RV's put on tires that age out before wearing out that going with more toe in is probably a good trade off. 1/4" seems excessive but I bet it feels great I wonder how it wears.

Here is mine after more than 5000 miles at 3/32, 30,000 miles total:

Attachment 238219

Wow your tires look better than mine at 10,000 miles but my toe was -25/32 lol. I bought my MH at 8300 miles a thought wow I wonder if all gasoline MH vibrate like this. After 1700 miles I decided that there must be something wrong with it. I guess I am kind of slow. lol

Well then I did the safety plus because some on the forum said to do that first for safety. It was a big improvement. Then I do the front CHF for just the cost of some tools and sockets and another big improvement but still had stearing vibration. While I was under the MH I noticed the front tires were worn down on the insides with no lines visible where the lines were visable on rest of tread so then I thought it was time for a check on alignment and tire balancing after seeing those recommendations on the forum. So at the alignment my toe was found to be 25/32 out.. That change to 1/16 toe and a new set of M Tires on the front and I am cruising back home on the freeway at 70 with one hand and I look over on the passenger seat and my English Cocker Spaniel is no longer bouncing in her seat and is sound asleep.lol

Next I am planning on getting some adjustable plates from TeJay and try out a few different angles on the front CHF and also start looking at the rear CHF since I already have the tools.

I think as someone pointed out the amount of slop in the tie rod joints might be one of the factors on how high you can go on the toe. Best way to find out is to try it, maybe a little bit at a time so you don’t go overboard and probably better on old tires than new ones, in case you go too high. Being that I have a nice new set of M’!s and my MH is now smooth I am very sure that 1/16 toe is 10 times better than 25/32 out.

Next spring maybe look at a rear track bar and some Summo springs. Anyone have any recommendation on the rear Trac bars as there are quite a few manufactures . I wonder if any of them use alloy steel?

property · 03-15-2019, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MathComp

With some new sockets (but no new power tools yet

) I was able to remove the bolts for both side connector arms for the front SB. I can move the side connector arms back and forth, though it takes a bit of effort. HOWEVER, I cannot budge the SB. I also currently can't budge the bolts that hold the SB on, but maybe the WD-40 needs more time to work its way in.

What are some thoughts on getting the SB to rotate into position so I can connect to the inner holes? I was thinking of buying a bottle jack, but what size would be appropriate? Or is it more important to loosen the SB brackets and getting some lubrication in there so it can move freely?

It were me I would just find a scissor jack from a car or in my case on old 2 ton hydraulic jack I had in the garage and just push on the sb on one end and I bet it will move right up. Just make sure your axle is level or you may have trouble getting in one if the bolts. One side may be lower do the high side first so you can jack up the low side. Hard to jack down the high side. Also look at Tejays adjustable plates they solve many problems and give lots of easy options and better connections. Let us know how it goes.

georgelesley · 03-16-2019, 04:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by property

It were me I would just find a scissor jack from a car or in my case on old 2 ton hydraulic jack I had in the garage and just push on the sb on one end and I bet it will move right up. Just make sure your axle is level or you may have trouble getting in one if the bolts. One side may be lower do the high side first so you can jack up the low side. Hard to jack down the high side. Also look at Tejays adjustable plates they solve many problems and give lots of easy options and better connections. Let us know how it goes.

It is not hard to do with any jack. I used a floor jack I have. Just loosen both ends then bolt the one that is higher first and jack the lower side a bit and youu’re done. Easy.

MathComp · 03-16-2019, 05:00 AM

Thanks, everyone, for the suggestions! It's going to be a difficult choice deciding which to try first. I'll let you know how it goes.

Tegu · 03-16-2019, 05:38 AM

When I did the chf, I used a bottle jack, not because the sb was that hard to move, but since I was in a somewhat awkward position, I didn't want to twist something in me. After securing the sb ends, I used a short piece of pipe on the socket wrench to loosen the bracket bolts. My bushings were dry on my sb as well. One other thing to consider, any chance someone put high strength thread locker on those bolts.

TeJay · 03-16-2019, 08:19 AM

Tegu,

That's a good point. You'll know if they used RED lock tight by applying maybe 20 seconds of propane torch heat to the nut on the back side then hit it with the wrench again. The RED will soften with that little heat.

MathComp · 03-16-2019, 11:29 AM

Thanks, again, for all the suggestions! I bought a bottle jack at Harbor Freight (and got my free flashlight

). That did the trick for me--it was really quite easy. I did turn one of the bolts around so I could clear the springs, but I think I recall reading that's not a problem. And now, not only do I have a bottle jack for future use, but more confidence to try something else. Maybe next time it will be lubricating the poly bushings, but for now, I just want to go for a ride. That might wait, though, since today is quite windy here.

On a somewhat related note, it looks to me like there are Bilstein shocks on my coach. I'm assuming they can't be original, and the previous owner had them put on, right?

TeJay · 03-16-2019, 02:39 PM

Math,

Two points. Heck you want windy day to see if the CHF helped with the SWAY.

Secondly the Ford chassis has had Bilsteins installed from the factory for some time. It had been mentioned that Ford probably has those shocks made special for their F-53 chassis so it may not be the same if you ordered a set of NEW Bilsteins for your RV.

Not sure if that has been confirmed.

MathComp · 03-16-2019, 03:30 PM

Aha! Well then, I won't immediately have the shocks removed and replaced.

Good point about the wind, but I think first I'd like to see what happens on the uneven country roads around here without the wind, "apples to apples". Of course, another factor is that DW won't let me take it out today.

After bringing it home for the first time, driving it off Cape Cod in a fierce wind, anything else will be a piece of cake.

frede · 03-17-2019, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeJay

Tegu,

That's a good point. You'll know if they used RED lock tight by applying maybe 20 seconds of propane torch heat to the nut on the back side then hit it with the wrench again. The RED will soften with that little heat.

Is Blue lock tight to use?

TeJay · 03-17-2019, 10:30 PM

frede,

Blue lock tight works well and is what I use most of the time. RED lock tight will require some heat to remove. I'll use it on fasteners that don't have to come off.

Bob1340 · 03-17-2019, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frede

Is Blue lock tight to use?

On bolts that size I’d suggest Blue. If these bolts are coming loose I don’t understand why. When I removed my factory hardware there was no thread locker on them. I put no thread locker on mine when I did the CHF and they haven’t loosened up. I took the front back off to lengthen the struts/links and they were tight as all getout. I did a a crawl under last week, all is tight.

TeJay · 03-18-2019, 08:46 AM

Bob1340,

"I took the front back off to lengthen the struts/links and they were tight as all getout. "

Your above comment comes into question. The torque on all of the bolts is 66 ft/lbs. We all know torque is determined mostly by the bolt size. None of the bolts on the SWAY control system should be tightened more than the 66 ft/lbs.

I've mentioned one friend who tightened his SCS (Sway Control System) bolts all to 66-ft/lbs. He drove from FL to OH and back (2,500 miles). He checked the bolts and they were again loose.

It was following this incident we began recommending BLUE or RED lock tight.

You mentioned you removed the links and they were tight. To the best of my knowledge nobody has had any LINK bolts come loose. The only bolts that have come loose are the 4 bolts holding the SB brackets to the rear differential.

I don't believe anybody has noticed/reported any thread lock solution used from the factory.

Based on a lot of experiences lock tight is highly recommended.

Bob1340 · 03-19-2019, 07:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeJay

Bob1340,

"I took the front back off to lengthen the struts/links and they were tight as all getout. "

Your above comment comes into question. The torque on all of the bolts is 66 ft/lbs. We all know torque is determined mostly by the bolt size. None of the bolts on the SWAY control system should be tightened more than the 66 ft/lbs.

I've mentioned one friend who tightened his SCS (Sway Control System) bolts all to 66-ft/lbs. He drove from FL to OH and back (2,500 miles). He checked the bolts and they were again loose.

It was following this incident we began recommending BLUE or RED lock tight.

You mentioned you removed the links and they were tight. To the best of my knowledge nobody has had any LINK bolts come loose. The only bolts that have come loose are the 4 bolts holding the SB brackets to the rear differential.

I don't believe anybody has noticed/reported any thread lock solution used from the factory.

Based on a lot of experiences lock tight is highly recommended.

I thought everyone was concerned with the link bolts. Coming loose.
Don’t get me wrong about the loctite! I use it on everything. Mostly blue. I love the new blue gel applicator.