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Old 03-23-2019, 07:21 PM   #5559
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Ohiomike,

Just remember your RV as SWAY which is rocking back and forth from the top and side to side or LATERAL movement.

Stabilizer Bars (SB) control the SWAY
Track Bars (TB) control LATERAL movement.

Shocks will also help with the SWAY.

The CHF does assist with SWAY control. You would have to try it to determine if it makes enough of a difference. Many, many RV owners have been very satisfied with the results.

Others wanted more SWAY control so they spent $500 to $600 on either a larger SB either front or rear or both and were happier.

Keep this thought in mind. Every MOD (modification) performed on any RV will almost always have different results based on the many, many variables between RV's.

It is always advised that owner do two things. Start with the cheapest MOD and drive your RV enough to recognize if it helped. Then try to affix a percentage like this MOD had a 10% improvement or 30% improvement.

Only do one MOD at a time.

One more piece of advice. Don't always believe the advice of others. WHY??? What worked on one RV may not have near the same results on another RV. Once you have 5 or 10 or 50 say the same thing then maybe it's worth a shot.

The CHF IMHO has given more positive results than any other single MOD to the F-53 chassis. I have read this entire thread at least twice and have scanned it 3 or 4 times. For that reason alone you should believe this statement. If not then rear the thread yourself.
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Old 03-23-2019, 07:30 PM   #5560
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Ohiomike,

You posted your response before I got my post finished. That's just fine. You said passing trucks and cross winds are your biggest concerns. You already have a front TB. Now you need a rear TB. That will cost you about $500 unless you have some skills and you can do a DIY one for under $100. Send me a PM if you are interested.

Once you do the front and rear CHF you will notice a big improvement in what you are experiencing. That's almost a promise. You may still need the rear TB.

Do a google search "DIY rear Track Bar" and you should come up with a thread started by myself on how to do a rear DIY TB. Give that a read and let me know if you want to attempt one.
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Old 03-23-2019, 08:17 PM   #5561
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TeJay thanks for the info. I am going to get my brake fluids flushed, oil changed at local truck shop and was gonna have them throw a track bar on it. I’ll probably have them do the chf instead and then drive it and see how the semis affect me. I’m not very mechanical and would rather pay someone to do a track bar professionally. I honestly believe doing the track bar is going to be most beneficial. I’m driving a 2014 with 15,000 miles on Bilstein shocks. I can’t imagine they are shot.

I’m gonna do chf and then take it for a long drive. I’ll report back when I get it done.
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Old 03-24-2019, 03:27 AM   #5562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skywagon View Post
FWIW, after returning to anti sway bars to stock positions, installing Koni FSD shocks, Ultra Trac rear differential stabilizer and Sumo springs, foam cushions, front and rear my MH finally handles wonderfully.
By "returning to stock positions" do you mean that you undid the CHF after putting on all that other stuff?

If so, would you say that undoing the CHF made no difference, or that with everything else it is better without the CHF? Or something else?

I have pretty much everything you have: Koni FSD, Ultra Trac rear track bar, Sumo Springs front and rear, and a Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer. However, I did the CHF (with Tejay's plates in the front) before any of that other stuff. I view each thing as in incremental improvement (hard to say about the Konis because I needed shocks anyway, so I don't have a clear baseline to compare) except the Sumo Springs, which were a huge improvement. They were as big an improvement as the CHF, possibly more so.

Like you, I would still say the F53 rides like what it is - a truck - but it's now a truck that gets around corners a lot better and holds its own in crosswinds and when being passed by semis, etc.

I'm hoping that the 2020 F53 chassis, in addition to the new 7.3 liter V8 and 10-speed transmission, will also have some suspension improvements. If it does, and if the V8 and new tranny improve upon the V10 as much as we all hope they do, then who knows? My future retirement motorhome could wind up being a gasser after all :-)
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:00 AM   #5563
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Originally Posted by bluegiller View Post
By "returning to stock positions" do you mean that you undid the CHF after putting on all that other stuff?

If so, would you say that undoing the CHF made no difference, or that with everything else it is better without the CHF? Or something else?

I have pretty much everything you have: Koni FSD, Ultra Trac rear track bar, Sumo Springs front and rear, and a Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer. However, I did the CHF (with Tejay's plates in the front) before any of that other stuff. I view each thing as in incremental improvement (hard to say about the Konis because I needed shocks anyway, so I don't have a clear baseline to compare) except the Sumo Springs, which were a huge improvement. They were as big an improvement as the CHF, possibly more so.

Like you, I would still say the F53 rides like what it is - a truck - but it's now a truck that gets around corners a lot better and holds its own in crosswinds and when being passed by semis, etc.

I'm hoping that the 2020 F53 chassis, in addition to the new 7.3 liter V8 and 10-speed transmission, will also have some suspension improvements. If it does, and if the V8 and new tranny improve upon the V10 as much as we all hope they do, then who knows? My future retirement motorhome could wind up being a gasser after all :-)

Yes, I returned the the CHF to stock during the install of Trac bar and Sumos. The reason was because I lost 3 out of four rear anti-sway bar clamp bolts. Every mod I did helped a little but losing bolts on clamps is not good. Don't know if CHF was the cause but prefer not to find out again. The trac bar was probably the best investment. 25 mph cross winds were minimally felt.
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Old 03-24-2019, 01:35 PM   #5564
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Originally Posted by Skywagon View Post
Yes, I returned the the CHF to stock during the install of Trac bar and Sumos. The reason was because I lost 3 out of four rear anti-sway bar clamp bolts. Every mod I did helped a little but losing bolts on clamps is not good. Don't know if CHF was the cause but prefer not to find out again. The trac bar was probably the best investment. 25 mph cross winds were minimally felt.
Just a note. When I did the CHF all four of my bolts were loose prior to doing the CHF. Locktite all and torqued to spec. Completed CHF. No problems since and that was about 20000 miles and a trip to Alaska ago.

I check them at each oil change.
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Old 03-24-2019, 07:22 PM   #5565
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It's amazing!!! We have had rear SB bolts/brackets coming loose before the CHF during the CHF and after the CHF unless lock tight is used to keep them from coming loose. There's absolutely no correlation between the CHF and loose SB brackets.

Also consider this fact. The front SB brackets/bolts do not come loose. WHY is that???? Stress!! The front SB is generally larger than the rear SB. One would think bigger means more stress on the SWAY system parts? The rear bracket is narrower than the front 1-9/32" rear and 2-1/4" front. The different sized brackets may be the problem but I don't know.

The bracket issue does not occur enough while under warranty to warrant Ford looking into it. It may loosen while under warranty but most owners are just not going to look at the SWAY control system. Most don't even know what it is or why it's on the RV. Some do discover it when, brackets, bolts & bushings are gone, bent, broken or missing and their RV handles awful.

I've got 32,000 miles on the CHF and not one loose, missing bolt or broken brackets front or rear.

Based on weight I do believe the shorter and lighter chassis do suffer from more sway, lateral movement and wind related issues. Add to that they usually have the 19.5" tire instead of 22.5. When you have the added weight and tire size you are starting out with a more forgiving and better handling chassis.
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Old 03-24-2019, 08:15 PM   #5566
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Our rig is 30' long with less than 16' wheelbase. And most of the overhang is behind the rear axle. I've thought that the tailwag in wind is just the rear end trying to act like a weather vane.
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Old 03-25-2019, 10:23 AM   #5567
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EdInArk,

We have the same chassis and our length is 30'10". We are about the same.

I have a friend who was ready to sell his RV. It's on an 18,000 lb chassis but around 28' long. All his driving was white knuckled. He had to concentrate all the time with no eyes off of anything but the road.

We added a rear DIY Track Bar and the difference is night and day. Now he loves driving his RV.

You already have the front TB and you added a rear TB. I'm not sure why your still feeling some push from wind. I'll assume you have your tire pressures set to around 82 to 85 LBS on all 6.
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Old 03-25-2019, 11:09 AM   #5568
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Originally Posted by EdInArk View Post
Our rig is 30' long with less than 16' wheelbase. And most of the overhang is behind the rear axle. I've thought that the tailwag in wind is just the rear end trying to act like a weather vane.
The front acts like one too with the high side walls in front of the steer tires. Wind will tilt the body causing sway which causes center of gravity shift and I believe some bump steer on the F53.

Rear track bar locates the rear axle better but also raises roll center which also helps sway.

Lower tire pressure will cause side wall to flex which can cause sway and side to side movement too. Usually a trade off I find higher pressures around 100 psi more stable but more harsh.

Rear track bar, CHF and more toe in all equally helped being pushed around nearly equally IMO. Definitely don't forget about toe and caster to help with wandering.

I am close to trying out a steering stabilizer to see if it helps with that last bit of wander and push I get from passing trucks that the other changes have greatly minimized.
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Old 03-25-2019, 11:43 AM   #5569
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Having previously done front CHF, the Safetyplus and Front end alignment with toe changed from out 25/32 to 1/16in, and new M tires I decided to do the rear CHF.

After removing the 2 nuts on the Z-bar both sides The bolts were tight, so I took a 1-1/2 ton old hydraulic jack and moving the sb up and down a little I got the bolts to line up and was able to tap off the bolts and Z bar on both sides. Then I pushed on the links and they didn’t move, so I loosened up the upper link bolts and then they moved.

I reversed the Z bar and installed the bolts on the passenger side, then I went to drivers side and it appeared that the sb needed to come down to line up with the links. So I removed the passenger side bolts and reversed the Z bracket on the drivers side and inserted the bolts and attached nuts there.

Then I went back over and re-installed the passenger side by jacking up the sb a little bit to get the bolts to line up. Then I tightened up all the nuts and retorqed to 66 lbs including the upper link bracket nuts.

I put my rachet on the sb brackets and was not able to tighten the nuts on both sides with my hand just to make sure they were tight and the brackets looked fine. When I pushed on the sb when it was loose it squeeked lightly and the poly bushings felt snug on th sb.

The nuts did not seem to have loosened in 5 years with the standard so I decided to leave them alone and check them later after I drive with the CHF on both front and rear.

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I,ll update after I drive it a little.
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Old 03-25-2019, 06:40 PM   #5570
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CHF update

I did CHF front and rear for the last 25k miles , it was fine the only things that bothered me was the increase in harshness in front and when elevated on jacks the closeness of front sway bar to the leaf springs. So I ordered and just installed 3" extended links from Skyjacker. Have not driven yet but I believe front end has more travel based on the distance between rebound bumpers and spring pads when wheels are off the ground ? It appears that sway bar could have been binding the travel ? Now front shocks fully extend? Your thoughts on this TEJAY?
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Old 03-25-2019, 06:50 PM   #5571
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I did CHF front and rear for the last 25k miles , it was fine the only things that bothered me was the increase in harshness in front and when elevated on jacks the closeness of front sway bar to the leaf springs. So I ordered and just installed 3" extended links from Skyjacker. Have not driven yet but I believe front end has more travel based on the distance between rebound bumpers and spring pads when wheels are off the ground ? It appears that sway bar could have been binding the travel ? Now front shocks fully extend? Your thoughts on this TEJAY?
My suspension has 3 1/2" down travel with CHF and 3 1/2" up travel to bump stop, so it sits at 50% droop normally. I keep meaning to undo the CHF and measure again to see if it can droop even further, but 3 1/2" is a lot, would be surprised if it comes close to that on normal roadways, same with hitting bump stops.
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Old 03-25-2019, 07:07 PM   #5572
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EdInArk,

We have the same chassis and our length is 30'10". We are about the same.

I have a friend who was ready to sell his RV. It's on an 18,000 lb chassis but around 28' long. All his driving was white knuckled. He had to concentrate all the time with no eyes off of anything but the road.

We added a rear DIY Track Bar and the difference is night and day. Now he loves driving his RV.

You already have the front TB and you added a rear TB. I'm not sure why your still feeling some push from wind. I'll assume you have your tire pressures set to around 82 to 85 LBS on all 6.
We're not feeling much, if any. We're running 82psi.
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