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Old 05-01-2019, 10:52 AM   #5699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winnworr21 View Post
Hmm
Sway bars are engineered to handle a certain amount of weight. I understand this was a quick fix, but shortening the pivot point put a lot stress on the bars.
If the bar was not intended to have different settings they won't have manufactured it with two different mounting holes.
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Old 05-01-2019, 04:07 PM   #5700
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jharrell,

Check this thread for more help and information

RSSA Reflex Steering Stabilizer INSTALL HELP!!!???

There is some limiting but it is marginal. It's probably less than a 1/4 turn of the steering wheel on each side. I'm willing to live with it based on how well it handles.

Checking the thread above at stock I had 3-1/2 turns lock to lock. I'll check what it is with the RSSA installed when I can.

We have a sharp turn getting out of our driveway but it's a dead end road and no traffic. If I gage it wrong I have to back up a few feet to finish the turn. We don't hook up the TOAD until we get up the drive and on the ridge road.

In the next few weeks I'm going to install some insulation under the front wheel wells top, front and rear to reduce some of the road noise. I've checked and there's plenty of space. I've done this before on the 34' Dutch Star with good results. I'll check the lock to lock number of turns.
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Old 05-01-2019, 07:00 PM   #5701
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Originally Posted by TeJay View Post
There is some limiting but it is marginal. It's probably less than a 1/4 turn of the steering wheel on each side. I'm willing to live with it based on how well it handles.

Checking the thread above at stock I had 3-1/2 turns lock to lock. I'll check what it is with the RSSA installed when I can.

We have a sharp turn getting out of our driveway but it's a dead end road and no traffic. If I gage it wrong I have to back up a few feet to finish the turn. We don't hook up the TOAD until we get up the drive and on the ridge road.

In the next few weeks I'm going to install some insulation under the front wheel wells top, front and rear to reduce some of the road noise. I've checked and there's plenty of space. I've done this before on the 34' Dutch Star with good results. I'll check the lock to lock number of turns.
Good to know, I am planning on doing a steering stabilizer and until reading the linked thread I never thought about it limiting wheel cut. Unfortunately my parking space off a rear alley barely fits the RV by inches and requires every bit of wheel cut to get it parked a long with some campgrounds I have been in I really don't want to lose any turn radius.

So if I do go for a Safe-T-Plus it will definitely be the teal long throw model not the recommended white model to be sure not to limit turning and bump the centering force to 230 lbs vs 180.
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Old 05-02-2019, 08:12 AM   #5702
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If you're situation is that limited keep in mind what the manufacturers tell about their unit not limiting your steering. They told me it wouldn't limit but it did.

Here's another part of my situation that is mentioned on the thread but so far not here.

Using my DIY brackets I did the install and still did not get 3 turns of the steering wheel (SW). I called RM and was told I needed to buy their mounting brackets. I couldn't see much if any difference between my brackets and theirs but was stumped so I gave in and spent the $100 + bucks on their brackets. I did the install and using their brackets I barely got 1 turn left and right of center.

Now I was really confused and a bit concerned. I wanted to take it on the road but with only 1 turn left and right front center I was afraid of getting it against the curb and not having sufficient turning to get it back into the drive.

I slept on it and came up with this idea. I decided to use the jacks and removed 90% of the weight off the front wheels. The tires were still on the ground. I immediately had full turning using their brackets but I don't remember what the count was.

My conclusion is with full weight on the front wheels plus the added resistance of the spring creates sufficient resistance which limits the turning of the SW. That possible scenario is not mentioned anywhere in their literature. If the RV is moving forward or backward it presents less resistance and therefore allows a full or greater turn.

We were leaving on a trip so I kept their brackets on and had no problems. I'm convinced that my DIY brackets would have worked except for the same added resistance of the front weight preventing them.

I really do like the RM RSSA. I'll do a count of my steering turns today and that might help you makeup your mind. I do recall from my previous posts on the other thread that with stock I did get 3-1/2 turns of the SW. If with the RM it's close it might be worth a try. They will take a return if you don't go beyond the 30 days like I did.
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Old 05-02-2019, 01:34 PM   #5703
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jharrell,

I lifted both wheels off the ground and could see daylight under the rubber. I was able to turn the SW 3-3/4 turns from full lock to lock in both directions.

Why did I think it was limiting my turning? It was due to the steering wheel becoming more difficult to turn the SW as the spring became more compressed. I was feeling resistance and just stopped trying to turn the SW. With both wheels off the ground it was very easy to turn lock to lock.

Now that I know I have full range I'll just go ahead and try harder. This should settle your thinking that the RSSA might limit your tight steering issues.

Now out to the RV to do the chassis lube.
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Old 05-02-2019, 02:41 PM   #5704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay View Post
jharrell,

I lifted both wheels off the ground and could see daylight under the rubber. I was able to turn the SW 3-3/4 turns from full lock to lock in both directions.

Why did I think it was limiting my turning? It was due to the steering wheel becoming more difficult to turn the SW as the spring became more compressed. I was feeling resistance and just stopped trying to turn the SW. With both wheels off the ground it was very easy to turn lock to lock.

Now that I know I have full range I'll just go ahead and try harder. This should settle your thinking that the RSSA might limit your tight steering issues.

Now out to the RV to do the chassis lube.
Thanks even more useful information, I wonder if the standard Safe-T-Plus is just too short for the F53 or if there is some other issue with those installs. Safe-T-Plus only makes one long throw and it was for certain DP chassis but as shown works fine for the F53 too, its the same centering force as the blue, 230 lbs.

RSSA is definitely tempting as its is much less expensive than the Safe-T-Plus, but I do like the twin internal spring design of the STP better.

Not being able to turn the wheel fully while stopped could be an issue for me, again the alley I park in requires me to do that to get it into the space. Its hard to explain how tight of a fit it is
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Old 05-02-2019, 05:48 PM   #5705
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I guess I didn't pick up on the fact that the STP has internal coil springs similar to RM RSSA external system. I didn't see a spring and didn't think it had any on the inside.

I had to search around to find some information about it but there still wasn't much. STP literature touts the hydraulics will cushions the return to center. The RSSA does not over correct by any means so that's not a big concern. The shock dampens the return.

Except for the cost either one would do the job. The STP states a total of 12" of tie rod travel for any of their set ups. That's something I didn't measure because there's only one of me. If you can measure how far yours travels now that would give you a good idea if it will work.
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Old 05-02-2019, 06:11 PM   #5706
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Originally Posted by TeJay View Post
I guess I didn't pick up on the fact that the STP has internal coil springs similar to RM RSSA external system. I didn't see a spring and didn't think it had any on the inside.
I know I have seen a more detailed photo of the internals before but can't seem to find much now, I understood it to a be a twin coil design, rather than a single coil the compresses and extends, but this drawing does not seem to show that:

Click image for larger version

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Here is another photo of the internal coil:


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This is their page describing how it works including the coils: http://www.safe-t-plus.com/news/how-...-device-works/
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Old 05-02-2019, 09:05 PM   #5707
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Can you share the name of the shop in Orlando? Any contact there? Thank you.
Hello Palms,
The shop I used in Orlando is Josam Truck Frame & Alignment. 8849 Exchange Drive, Orlando, FL 32809. Contact person is Barry Hampton, Alignment and Suspension Specialist.
Phone 407-438-7020, Fax 407-438-928 Home
Josam was recommended to me by Independence RV in Winter Park Florida (Orlando)
https://www.independencerv.com/
I have been told that multiple RV dealers recommend Josam, including several in Tampa.
Feel free to mention my name to Barry. I have no connections to Josam's other than I am highly pleased with their work and their personnel in the shop and front office. They have a great reputation.
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Old 05-02-2019, 10:15 PM   #5708
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Hello Palms,

The shop I used in Orlando is Josam Truck Frame & Alignment. 8849 Exchange Drive, Orlando, FL 32809. Contact person is Barry Hampton, Alignment and Suspension Specialist.

Phone 407-438-7020, Fax 407-438-928 Home

Josam was recommended to me by Independence RV in Winter Park Florida (Orlando)

https://www.independencerv.com/

I have been told that multiple RV dealers recommend Josam, including several in Tampa.

Feel free to mention my name to Barry. I have no connections to Josam's other than I am highly pleased with their work and their personnel in the shop and front office. They have a great reputation.


Thanks so much. Will contact him soon and let him know I owe them to you!
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Old 05-03-2019, 01:57 PM   #5709
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Originally Posted by Palms View Post
Thanks so much. Will contact him soon and let him know I owe them to you!
You will be very pleased with any work they do on your RV
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Old 05-04-2019, 10:21 AM   #5710
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Need some CHF advice.

2018 Fleetwood Southwind, 22k F53 chassis

I have a Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer, Koni shocks, and an Ultratrac rear track bar.
The rig drives much better.

I haven't yet done the CHF.

Should I do CHF on front, rear or both?
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Old 05-04-2019, 10:42 AM   #5711
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Start with he front and see how it changes it.

The rear track bar raise the roll center of the rear end, so it also works like a anti sway device.
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Old 06-04-2019, 02:46 PM   #5712
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Matt, Welcome to the forum.


I just noticed this on mine last week while working on my track bar. I've been running like this for two years.

I have two new links that I'm going to install that should give more clearance between the sway bar and the differential. The original rear links are 10.5 center-to center. The new links (MEF-66) are 11.5 inch,

I haven't installed the new links yet, waiting for weather to clear. Heres what I did so far, with photos:

F53 Rear sway bar CHF re-do – 1999 Southwind 35S


..

Hi,



Have you gotten around to installing the new 1" longer links that you purchased (MEF-66)?

I am in the same predicament and looking for solutions here.


Thanks
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