Community Forums

Waiter21 · 06-04-2019, 10:22 PM

I put the MEF-66 on the rear..

F53 Rear sway bar CHF re-do – 1999 Southwind 35S

..

Ohiomike · 06-07-2019, 08:57 PM

I had my mechanic do the cheap handling fix when he did oil chance. I tested it out on a 8 hour drive in all types of conditions. Started with strong head wind then we went east and it was a strong wind straight to the side. When we got into the mountains handling was phenomenal. Very little push from semi trucks or wind. Amazing results. If I didn’t do the fix I would have had a miserable drive and a longer drive. This coach handles very well now. I did both front and rears. If you are on the fence do it.

TeJay · 06-08-2019, 10:13 AM

Mike,

Thanks for that report. We can all thank John for the many, many hours of improved quality seat time in our RV's.

BBehling · 06-08-2019, 11:35 AM

Can I assume that the best post describing how to do it is post #1? After spending 8+ hours researching slide-out bolt loosening in Newmar forum, I am a little bleary eyed and am hoping some kind soul would assure me which post best describes how to do this fix...thanks for any help!

Ohiomike · 06-08-2019, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BBehling

Can I assume that the best post describing how to do it is post #1? After spending 8+ hours researching slide-out bolt loosening in Newmar forum, I am a little bleary eyed and am hoping some kind soul would assure me which post best describes how to do this fix...thanks for any help!

Just move the sway bars front and rear to the inside position. Don’t worry about angles or anything else. If it looks like it will interfere with something else then add extending sway links if not adjust and be done. Trust me best thing ever.

TeJay · 06-08-2019, 08:09 PM

BBehling,

I did some searching on the thread. Go to these numbered posts. They show pictures of before and after. POST #'s 3563,3602,3665 & 3773. A picture is worth 1,000 words!!!

All you have to do is remove the link bolts, raise the stabilizer bar (SB) and move the link to the inner hole and re-attach. Add blue lock tight and torque the bolts to 66 ft/lbs.

MarvinG · 06-08-2019, 08:30 PM

For older F53’s that don’t have the alternate link mounting holes, has anyone found a similar workaround?

TeJay · 06-08-2019, 08:37 PM

Marvin,

Take some pics of your suspension and send them to my home e-mail. Maybe there's something that can be done.

Send me a PM with your home e-mail and I'll send you mine. Then you can send some pics.

CIDE · 06-09-2019, 10:35 AM

TeJay:
I hope you'll be able to share the photos and solution if it's different than what's been discussed so far.

Ohiomike · 06-14-2019, 09:27 PM

Just got back from Shenandoah National Park. 500 mile day and not beat up or tired. First 55 miles were on scenic skyline drive. Rest of trip was going through the mountains of West Virginia. Coach handled well. I was able to maintain a good speed and still be comfortable going through the mountains. Wind didn’t affect me much. There was a few gusts that made me sway a bit but your never going to not have that when hit broad sided with high winds. Coach now handles like a large suv. Total trip was over 1200 miles and most of it was mountain driving. No issues at all with the handling. I can see why some have done the fix and still do other improvements but I doubt I spend anymore money on upgrading suspension. It’s a breeze to drive now. I don’t think I would have fared close to as well if I didn’t do the fix prior to trip. It would have forced me to break up the drive and not get home today. Thanks Jim for putting this thread out here.

TeJay · 06-14-2019, 09:47 PM

CIDE,

If one does not have the typical F-53 SB with the two holes we didn't come up with much.

The best we came up with was to make sure all your stabilizer bar (SB) bushings are of polyurethane and fresh. Secondly measure your current front and rear SB diameters. Check with Ford or some truck salvage yards to determine if Ford made some SB's that were larger in diameter that would fit that chassis. If somebody finds some that's about the cheapest way to improve your SWAY control. Buying new is also an option but $$$$ may be the issue.

There are some RV salvage yards around. There's one up in MO about 2 hours from us called Colaw's RV Salvage. You can call them to see if they have any answers for the pre-1999 F-53 chassis.

CIDE · 06-14-2019, 11:11 PM

Thanks TeJay:

I didn't realize the pre-1999s didn't have the second SB holes from Ford.

TeJay · 06-15-2019, 07:05 AM

Several manufacturers instead of a connecting link they use a rod connecting the SB to the frame with bushings stacked one on top and one below where the rod goes through the frame connection. It's very much like how some shocks are attached to a frame or attaching bracket.

There's also a concave washer on top and below each of the two round bushings. To properly attach the set up you'd tighten a top nut until the bushing is squeezed/flattened to the same diameter as the washer.

My 2001 Ford Ranger pickup has that type of set up for the SB.