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Old 07-03-2019, 07:14 AM   #5755
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Great news for you. I would like to do this to my f53 chassis also it is a 2004 so I simply just move the boats where they're at now to the other location that is available on the sway bars front and back is that correct ?thank you. Which hose should the boats be in for the fix to be accomplished?
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Old 07-03-2019, 07:38 AM   #5756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philjp1 View Post
Great news for you. I would like to do this to my f53 chassis also it is a 2004 so I simply just move the boats where they're at now to the other location that is available on the sway bars front and back is that correct ?thank you. Which hose should the boats be in for the fix to be accomplished?
The holes closest to the axle.
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Old 07-12-2019, 10:03 AM   #5757
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Just a quick comment --

Following the excellent advice here and elsewhere, I got my new (thor 2019 ace 30.3 2500 miles) rig's front aligned and wheels balanced.

Interestingly, the alignment was almost right on with the exception of a 1/4 inch tweak to the toe-in. Maybe the factory is finally 'getting it'.
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Old 07-14-2019, 08:29 AM   #5758
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodbender View Post
Just a quick comment --

Following the excellent advice here and elsewhere, I got my new (thor 2019 ace 30.3 2500 miles) rig's front aligned and wheels balanced.

Interestingly, the alignment was almost right on with the exception of a 1/4 inch tweak to the toe-in. Maybe the factory is finally 'getting it'.
The factory can never get it right. An alignment should be performed after the RV has been loaded for travel. There is no way the factory can do that. The owners manual that came with our Winnebago said that one of the first things the owner should do is load the RV for travel and get an alignment done.
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Old 07-14-2019, 08:35 AM   #5759
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Just a heads up that I have now set my CHF using TeJay's plates to the CHF+1 position. So far, I have only driven to the gas station and back but there is a noticeable improvement over the standard CHF setting. Other than the front end of the RV now staying very flat I did not detect any negative side effects. We will be heading out on a trip in a couple of weeks and I will report the results when we return.

To fill in the details, this is on a 2018 Vista YE with an 18K chassis. The RV has a roadmaster rear SB and a Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer.
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Old 07-14-2019, 10:01 AM   #5760
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It's time again to enlighten folks regarding the factory's insistence that all RV's need to be aligned after they are loaded. Lets look at facts that may not be apparent.

The F-53 chassis has two fixed axles. The front is a solid axle. It has preset front camber. To adjust camber the axle has to be bent cold which is not recommended by Ford. The front toe is adjusted by the tie rod and usually set around 1/16" towed in. The caster is set by installing shims.

The rear axle is a solid differential. There are no rear alignment angles: caster, camber or toe. The exception would be the position of the differential in relation to the frame . The axle should be at right angles.

So how can added weight effect the alignment? It won't!! Nothing regarding the set alignment angles changes. One aspect (caster) that can change. If the owner/builder adds to much weight to the front/rear the caster can change.

Caster changes all the time. We add/adjust liquid weight (water/waste/fuel/supplies) all the time. Level front to back is always changing. Just don't be way off permanently by added tools/gear etc.

Two more points. Why then do they always tell us to have an alignment after we load down the RV? If you have an independent front suspension Angles can change with added weight. Second reason is they are covering their butts. Why do I say that?

Second point. Our new RV pulled towards the ditch driving it home from Forest City Iowa. Ford agreed to pay for an alignment after 700 miles and ALL of the factory set angles were off.

Why do I believe they were all off? I know how to do alignments and I helped the alignment tech. We have 36,000 miles and little to no tire wear. After 4 years we had some slight front tire wear so he checked the settings and they were still OK.

There are only 3 reasons to perform an alignment.

1. The first or last alignment was not performed correctly by the tech.
2. There are worn front end parts:king pins, ball joints, tie rods.
3. A front end part was bent hitting something.

Any of the above reasons can cause tire wear but since tire wear can be caused by incorrect tire pressures is not a primary reason to perform an alignment. Of the three angles two will cause front tire wear: toe and camber.

I'm certain manufacturers will continue to tell us to have the RV aligned. I'm also certain many folks will still believe what they tell them. I do believe it is important to have the RV aligned because as was demonstrated to me they DID NOT perform an alignment at the factory or they did it incorrectly.
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Old 07-14-2019, 01:28 PM   #5761
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Thought I would add my fix here.

2006 Holiday Rambler Admiral 30PDD F53 (2005?) chassis. Did both front and rear CHF and just came back from a short gas run, about 5 miles. The road however is a country road with dips and bumps and a set of Railroad Tracks.

WOW ... what a difference! Just moving it forward 15 feet I could tell the difference. Pulling out of the storage drive way ... no sway. Hitting a few dips and yes sway but only like twice (normally would start swaying and I though it would tip over) and then back to center.

Railroad tracks .... nothing. Leaving gas station driveway ... nothing. Could not be happier!

However, not sure if this is all because of the CHF or the fact that when I went to do the rear sway bar, I commented (to myself) how easy it was to move the bar and line up holes. Well seems I had NO rear sway bar bushings! They completely disintegrated. Did the moving of holes anyway. Ordered new Poly bushings from skuterdude on Ebay (great guy. He even called me to talk) and attached them afterwards.

All in all very pleased and will be going to Yellowstone next week for a full 3000 mile test but expect nothing but good results.
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Old 07-15-2019, 05:38 AM   #5762
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If your rear bushings were gone then you had no rear sway control. You did say you noticed a big improvement even without new rear bushings. So yes all the improvement you got was from the CHF on the front.

You will get even more improvement but it won't be as dramatic as what you have already noticed. Hey every bit of improvement is just that. Another Plus to the ride and handling.
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Old 07-18-2019, 05:11 PM   #5763
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Rear CHF

I have a 2019 Bay Star 3014. I have been told by a technician that the CHF canít be performed on the rear. Has anyone else encountered this?
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Old 07-19-2019, 06:47 AM   #5764
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Unless Ford has changed the rear sway control system for 2019 it can be done. If you could post a close up pic of the rear where the link connects to the rear SB (Stabilizer Bar) we can let you know.

Another point. In recent (2017 or 2018) years Ford has made one minor change with the Z-bracket. I have not seen this so I'm reporting what I've read.

Apparently one or both of the two bolts holding the Z-bracket in place has serrations towards the top or bolt head around the bolt shaft. The serrations will cut matching grooves into the bracket making it difficult to remove the bolt. For some this little issue has made them believe they can't do the CHF. I guess not being able to remove the bolts is the issue but again I'm not exactly sure.

A little or maybe a lot of effort is needed to remove the bolts from the bracket. It does not however stop one from doing the CHF on the rears.
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Old 07-20-2019, 06:22 PM   #5765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay View Post
Unless Ford has changed the rear sway control system for 2019 it can be done. If you could post a close up pic of the rear where the link connects to the rear SB (Stabilizer Bar) we can let you know.

Another point. In recent (2017 or 2018) years Ford has made one minor change with the Z-bracket. I have not seen this so I'm reporting what I've read.

Apparently one or both of the two bolts holding the Z-bracket in place has serrations towards the top or bolt head around the bolt shaft. The serrations will cut matching grooves into the bracket making it difficult to remove the bolt. For some this little issue has made them believe they can't do the CHF. I guess not being able to remove the bolts is the issue but again I'm not exactly sure.

A little or maybe a lot of effort is needed to remove the bolts from the bracket. It does not however stop one from doing the CHF on the rears.
Are these adequate to determine if there is any issue in changing the rear ones?
/Users/garyandsusan/Desktop/IMG_2116.JPG
/Users/garyandsusan/Desktop/IMG_2117.JPG
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Old 07-22-2019, 11:50 PM   #5766
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2002 Adventurer here, did the CHF in 2013. Original blue Ford poly sway bar to axle bushings, still in good shape after 17 years and 86,000 miles. No problems with the brackets either. I put the Helwig adjustable links in the back in 2013, just moved the existing link to the rear hole in the front. Been getting an annoying occasional hard clunk in the front on hard turns and uneven pavement like entering driveways.

Today I got another set of Helwigs from Summit Racing for $107.25 part HEL7962 and put them on the front. This time I used the bolts from Helwig, slightly under size for the frame and sway bar, but then so were the Ford bolts. Tightened them to 40 ft-lbs per Helwig instruction sheet. My cheat sheet shows they could be torqued to 78 ft-lbs. Made sure to grease the bushings with grease supplied and I removed the sway bar to axle bushings and greased them also. They were in fine shape, but impossible to move the sway bar by hand before greasing. Adjusted the links to original length plus 3" to get a nearly horizontal sway bar end.

Helwig grade 8 bolts were 7/16" (0.4375 or 11.11 mm) while the Ford bolts were metric and measured 11.90 mm or 0.4685 in a difference of 31 thousandths.

And check out my brand new calipers in the background.
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Old 07-23-2019, 06:08 PM   #5767
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I previously had a 30' Holiday Rambler Arista with no suspension mods and it was a white knuckle affair when big rigs passed or when I was slammed by a crosswind. Our drive to the Grand Canyon from San Diego last year was exhausting! I recently sold the Rambler and purchased a Coachmen Mirada 35BH.

We recently took our first long(ish) trip in the Coachmen to Mammoth Lakes in the Sierras which is about 400 miles one way from our home, lots of steep grades, two lane freeways and tons of semis. I fully planned on doing the CHF before leaving, but time didn't allow so we made the trip without. I was fully expecting the worse, but I was stunned by how well it handled, I barely felt the big rigs or crosswinds and this is without any suspension mods. I'm sure the longer wheelbase (242") combined with the bigger chassis (22K), has a lot to do with it or maybe it was my experience with my previous rig, but I really was pleasantly surprised.

I guess my question is to the other members with similar size chassis and wheelbase that have done the CHF. How much of an improvement did you see? Perhaps the CHF benefits motorhomes with lighter chassis and shorter wheelbase? I'm currently happy with the way it drives, but if the CHF can further improve things, I'm in.

Thanks
Mike
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Old 07-23-2019, 06:18 PM   #5768
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Lots of combinations/variations in the F53 chassis. They make for a varied result in the handling from one to the next. The CHF is a "freebie" I would give it a try - what do you have to lose but an hour or so of your time.
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